I have a Type 3 and the battery keeps dischargin over the space of maybe 5 days or so.
Now i know its not the battery cause its almost new, and ive tried another battery with the same result. The alternator charges fine because after say 10 mins of driving you can turn it off and restart it again fine.
Any suggestions? Dodgy earthing? Alien conspiracy?nn[ Edited on 7-9-2005 by 72FASTY ]
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
you dont have a hardcore audio system or dvd or alarm?
these things all draw power from the battery constantly...
what brand battery and how many CCA's?
everything dies baby, thats a fact..
maybe everything that dies one day comes back..
put your make up on and your hair up pretty..
and meet me tonight in Atlantic city..
Small short-circuit somewhere? Left the cabin light on?
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
As Purple said sounds like you have a small short somewhere, maybe time for a sparky to have a look at it.
Marc
If you can't laugh at yourself you can't laugh at anyone else! Because life is to short not to LAUGH
Mabe the engine bay light stays on (Fasty)?
Pay your debts, CxxT
If you have a multimeter you can work out the circuit that's drawing the current by pulling each fuse and checking for current flow across the fusebox terminals with the ignition off. If you don't have a multimeter you can pick one up for $10.
Once you've worked out the circuit that's drawing current you can work through the items on that circuit until you find out where the problem is.
Thanks for the help guys. Checked most of the stuff mentioned already. However, i do remeber seeing the engine bay light globe holder being a bit mangled, so that could be shorting. MNS Kombi, that sounds like a v good idea. Where do you get these $10 multimeters from. Super Cheap?
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
72FASTY wrote:Where do you get these $10 multimeters from. Super Cheap?
yep
Pay your debts, CxxT
or your average cheap shop. Anyway, one last thing. Not all current is drawn through fuses, which can be a pain. But I guess if none of the fused connections are drawing current then there's not too much left is there?
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Alright. Bought a multimeter and checked it all out. Suprise Suprise my stereo was the only thing sucking juice. However, the culprit fuse/wire toggle thingy is connected to the cable which is meant to be receiving constant battery power, not the ignition power cable.
So my quesiton is, as it is the cable which is meant to be receiving constant power, does this mean it shoukd be sucking 11ish volts out all the time? i would have though it would have been minor if any.
P.S The stupid interior light sent me on a wild goose chase for 30 mins till i figured out what was up, and turned it off. Duh.
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
Check by testing between the + pole on the battery and the + cable 😉
Pay your debts, CxxT
yes, the stereo cable should be drawing the supply voltage. It's the watts consumed that determines the drain.
Also a lot of stereos have a wire for the standby/clock etc and one for full power. The standby is wire to constant power feed. The main power can be either. I have it on constant because it's nice to have radio in my van while it's still off.
If at first you don't succeed. Build, build again.
Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based LCA pop-top camper. Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Hmmmm
I have the same thing, already replaced one battery (the one i have in there now apparently has a collapsed cell!!)
Will have to try the mutltimeter across terminals thing as well
'Ah, whatever................'
Ok this is drawing a long bow but type 3's have a clock...I would think 5 days might be a bit short but if the battery is not holding full charge this could be the culprit
Alright guys, a few things so i have something to aim for when i go home tonight.
1. To measure the juice used by something, i measure from the postive battery to the positive wire of the device? In Watts? (Please forgive my electronic ignorance. I can make a circuit..... honest)
2. What sort of measurment should i be getting on this given the drainage rate?
Thanks for all your help so far. And ive only dropped $10!!
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
Bum-titty-Bump
I can do skids.
In the Wet.
On Oily surfaces.
72FASTY wrote:Alright guys, a few things so i have something to aim for when i go home tonight.
1. To measure the juice used by something, i measure from the postive battery to the positive wire of the device? In Watts? (Please forgive my electronic ignorance. I can make a circuit..... honest)
2. What sort of measurment should i be getting on this given the drainage rate?
Thanks for all your help so far. And ive only dropped $10!!
Watts = Amps x Voltage. The suggestion about measuring between the +ve battery connection and the +ve battery pole is the go. What you need to do is disconnect the +ve cable from the battery and put your multimeter (set to read amps) between the cable and the battery terminal. This will show you the current being drawn by your mystery item. You can then multiply this by the voltage to get watts. However, the current reading alone will be enough. If it's just standby on the stereo it shouldn't be more than a few milliamps (thousandths of an amp).
did you find out what actually was causing the drainage of your battery as i am having same trouble with my 2lt kombi,draining my battery over a period of about 5 days
hmm a common problem! my dads 2lt kombi has this problem aswell!
anyone know the problem yet and whats the amp setting look like on a multimeter???
Thanks
Jay
You needto DISCONNECT the battery + terninal and then test using the multimeter IN BETWENN the + terminal and the battery. So ANY AND ALL current can be measured by the multimetter
Pay your debts, CxxT
easy way to test if it is ur battery is to, after your finished driving for the day..ie. the battery should be charged.
Disconnect the battery and then reconnect it when you next drive.
i know you said it shouldnt be the battery but this should prove that.
Also when measuring current the multimeter needs to be placed in series 🙂.
Also to test current while car is off you can put ur multimeter inline (series..ie positive lead of multi to battery and neg lead to battery lead(while battery disconnected)) and see how much its pulling while off.
Note. dont start the car with the multimeter conencted, unless you want to see smoke 😀
anyways i have mumbled on
..
James
