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real manx or clone how do i tell

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dubbill Officially Full-On Dubber

336 posts · joined Jul 2005 ·

#488531
just for authenticity sake how do i tell a real manx from a clone

MickH Hairy Gutted Sloth

3,389 posts · joined Sep 2003 ·

#488533
dubbill wrote:just for authenticity sake how do i tell a real manx from a clone
Look at the MANX site or post pictures here.I'm sure you will get some answers..........:thumb
tssnq.com.au

shaihulud Custom Title Time!

1,448 posts · joined Nov 2005 ·

#489894
Go to manxclub.com and manxclub.org and follow the prompts.

Generally speaking

Feel the thickness of the fibreglass in several places. It is about 5mm thick on a genuine Manx and quite thin on a clone. If the mudguards flex easily the fibreglass is thin and it's a clone/copy

Look for a Meyers Manx ID plate , in the middlle, either above the gearshift link hole behind the chassis number or on the fire wall above the pedals. A set of holes about 2 inches by 1 1/2 inches may indicate a missing plate.

Look for tubes running the full length of the sides under the curve beneath the sides. They should be about 1 1/2 inch in diameter. Sometimes it is a piece of vacuum cleaner hose, or a U shaped piece of cardboard.

Manxes have a wheel hole with a little dimple in it and a battery hole under the rear seat area. Manx 2s do not have them.

There should be a small bump for a badge in the front of the bonnet, which should be plain, without other bumps, ridges, scoops etc..

In a very old Manx the dash board is separate, fits on a steel frame and is made of plastic. Later models have the dash as part of the bonnet.

There is a cut out on a small raised area directly above the engine.

That's all I can think of now.

Happy hunting. Remember that there are in existence many more copies of Manxes that there are genuine ones, so if you find a genuine one you are very lucky.