Anti seize is recommended for Spark Plugs threads that are used in Alloy Heads...
Air Cooled Volkswagens have alloy Heads....
otherwise the steel spark plug can get jammed in the
soft alloy head.... as they expand differently...
causing major problems....
I just did My Lancers spark plugs.....
with Never seize as the old plugs were a bit tight to get out....
I have always used a spark plug socket with a rubber insert
the rubber insert captures the spark plug so it cannot drop
down under the tinware....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I've heard that the anti seize forms a barrier between the spark plug and head which prevents the flow of heat from the plug to the head, causing overheating of the plug.
[ Edited on 12-6-2006 by mackaymanx ]
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]You only use a small amount to coat the inside of the spark plug thread....
so it doesn't bind....
I think You would have to use a lot to stop the heat transfer....
and there is only a small amount of room in between the threads...
anyway...
I would rather use it....
than have a tight or seized spark plug....
I have read where it should be used on all steel bolts that thread into alloy....
Not just the ones that get hot...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I used to use it on all my VW heads/plugs.:thumb
tssnq.com.au
Thanks for the motor Mick, my brother just dropped it off.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]yes nickel based anti-sieze 👍
Customer service is not dead in Australia.
Always after HAZET & MATRA & VW factory tools
hmmmmm...should stick some on my plugs this week... 🙂
1976 Kombi Trakka camper, "Buttercup"... driver.
1976 Beluxe Microbus, "Saphir"... resto.
1974 Kombi panelvan, "George"... shed.
1974 Superbug, "Schmeetle"... resto.
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Its peace of mind when the plugs screw out easily...
Makes My day....
I even used it on My cadmium plated new guard bolts...
If they ever need to come out....
easy does it....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
i always have on all 4 of our vw motors and never had a problem
lee, with the rubber insert in sparkplug sockets there good for holding the spark pulg but i use another method which works well
a piece of rubber hose bout 3/8 from memory bit smaller than garden hose holds a plug nicely
start it off with that so that if it cross threads it just slips rather than damaging the thread
coz helicoils are a pain in the arse LOL
its also good coz its hard to get them started sometimes coz there so deep in the tinware specailly with twin carbs on
Joel
[ Edited on 12-6-2006 by DUB74L ]
I use antiseize (LOCTITE Brand) on my VW and Land Rover (Alloy V8) and they seem okay to me!
-Staggers.
STAGGERS AUTOMOTIVE - Heavy Vehicle Diesel Specialist
JB CUSTOMS & CLASSICS - Car Builders
2/53 Tradelink Drive, Browns Plains
Just make sure it is NICKEL based and NOT copper...:thumb:sandrine
tssnq.com.au
The Americans talk a lot about copper anti seize but I've never seen any.....
I presume it would be gold coloured... ??
Ok Joel on the hose.....
I don't know I'm game enough to use that on the Lancer
engine as the spark plugs are about 100mm + down in the head....
although the rubber insert in My New spark plug socket isn't as tight as it was in the old one...
which I have mislaid, or one of My Sons has a loan of it....:P:P:P
The old one used to really grab hold of the Insulator part of the plug,
I think the new one just holds the top part ...
which may not work on the VW plugs without the screw on bit...
which isn't used on VW spark plug resistors...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
I've used plenty of copper based stuff at work. It was called Kopr Kote or something like that. Its copper coloured, strangely enough. Who would have thought!
I hate spark plug sockets that only use the rubber. Magentic ones are 100 times better. I've never found a magentic one for sale when I've needed one, so I make do wiith the rubber type. The latest sidchrome ones seem to only grab the lug by the screw on tip that VW doesnt use, so they suck big time.
Lee, what model lancer do you have, I may have a present for you.
i always smear a little light oil on the threads before putting in new spark plugs. poor mans anti seize.
amazer. what do you mean they dont use the screw on tips?
are u refering to the small screw on part at the top of the ceramic part that comes already screwed on out of the box?
cause ive always run them like that???
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
I wish I'd have thought of using it before now as I currently have a plug stuck in no.4 cylinder.Buggar.
Cheers
Brendan
Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
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try warming your engine up a bit. letting it cool for 10 mins and then spray a small mount of WD40 around the plug. let it sit for another 5 and then get a cheater bar on your socket wrench so u can move it in very small increments and go slowly.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
amazeer wrote:Lee, what model lancer do you have, I may have a present for you.
2001 CE GLXi
1835cc
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Anthiron wrote:amazer. what do you mean they dont use the screw on tips?
are u refering to the small screw on part at the top of the ceramic part that comes already screwed on out of the box?
cause ive always run them like that???
The VW spark Plug Resistor on the spark plug leads only fits onto the threaded part...
the round nut is NOT used.... Never has been...
wasn't used in 1960... still not used....
I have 4 brand new ones here.... and they are way too small to fit over the nut....
Unless You use non VW spark plug leads....
Lee- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
68AutoBug wrote:Anthiron wrote:amazer. what do you mean they dont use the screw on tips?
are u refering to the small screw on part at the top of the ceramic part that comes already screwed on out of the box?
cause ive always run them like that???
The VW spark Plug Resistor on the spark plug leads only fits onto the threaded part...
the round nut is NOT used.... Never has been...
wasn't used in 1960... still not used....
I have 4 brand new ones here.... and they are way too small to fit over the nut....
Unless You use non VW spark plug leads....
Lee
yeah what lee said.
ahh sorry lee, i have an airfilter for earlier model. mine is CE as well.
Copper coat always and u will never have any problems.
I have always used anti-seize in alloy heads, never any probs. Since starting to restore and maintain beetles I have made a point of coating every thread I remove before it goes back.
An old school tradesman mechanic taught me, (30 years ago when I was an apprentice) no matter what the repair or maintenance job you are working on, always think of the poor bugger that has to do it next time, It might just turn out to be you.
I recently saw a Nulon brand of anti-seize, their blurb reckoned it didn't harden over the long term, I'm going to try it when my current tube runs out.
I have been an avid user of Nulon products since they first started off in the '70's. Learned about the guy's who started the business at TAFE, they were cutting edge at the time. I always remember my amazement at their demo which was an 4cyl motor set up to run on a stand complete with radiator. They would run the Nulon in then drain the oil and remove the sump, then start the engine again (with no sump on !!) and let it run at about 1500 -2000 rpm ALL DAY, all this I was present for and saw with my own eyes. Apparently they also ran a Holden Gemmini from Sydney to Melbourne with no oil in the sump.
Matt.
They did Sydney/Melbourne with a 2250cc LC Torana in the 70s, then again in the 1980s with a 3300cc Commodore.
I still don't believe it...! But you saw an engine run all day with no sump?
Pay your debts, CxxT
VWCOOL wrote:They did Sydney/Melbourne with a 2250cc LC Torana in the 70s, then again in the 1980s with a 3300cc Commodore.
I still don't believe it...! But you saw an engine run all day with no sump?
YEP!!! They also did a run to Darwin with no oil.I think it was a Ford??
tssnq.com.au
ahh ok thats alrite i dont have VW leads
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
Anthiron wrote:ahh ok thats alrite i dont have VW leads
:alien
tssnq.com.au
You need to rewind a few posts Mick, related to the spark plug tip thing.
I worked with Peter McLeod (not the speedster guy, the one who won bathurst many years ago). We/he was sponsored by Slick 50. The story he fed us was that in the year before, they ran with no oil for a long period of the race. Cant remember how long and how there got to be no oil, but the oil light came on and the car kept going, so they assumed there was a problem with the light. This was in a citroen BX in the 12 hour races. Any laps around bathurst flat out with no oil is pretty impressive. How much of that is poetic licence I dont know, he is pretty snakey (car salesman and all).
no match for the nulon tests i know, but my mates mother did a run to the shops with no oil. he drained the sump to do an oil change, went inside came out again and the car was gone. Don't know what oil was used but the car is still on the road today.
Matt Ryan wrote:I have always used anti-seize in alloy heads, never any probs. Since starting to restore and maintain beetles I have made a point of coating every thread I remove before it goes back.
An old school tradesman mechanic taught me, (30 years ago when I was an apprentice) no matter what the repair or maintenance job you are working on, always think of the poor bugger that has to do it next time, It might just turn out to be you.
I recently saw a Nulon brand of anti-seize, their blurb reckoned it didn't harden over the long term, I'm going to try it when my current tube runs out.
I have been an avid user of Nulon products since they first started off in the '70's. Learned about the guy's who started the business at TAFE, they were cutting edge at the time. I always remember my amazement at their demo which was an 4cyl motor set up to run on a stand complete with radiator. They would run the Nulon in then drain the oil and remove the sump, then start the engine again (with no sump on !!) and let it run at about 1500 -2000 rpm ALL DAY, all this I was present for and saw with my own eyes. Apparently they also ran a Holden Gemmini from Sydney to Melbourne with no oil in the sump.
Matt.
Hi Matt.
I've been a Nulon user for many years too...
I used their engine oil additive for many years....
but couldn't tell if it worked or not....
I haven't used it in the last 2 New Lancers I've bought...
but I have used it in the gearbox of every car I've owned since it has been on the market....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Quote:
Originally posted by VWCOOL
They did Sydney/Melbourne with a 2250cc LC Torana in the 70s, then again in the 1980s with a 3300cc Commodore.
I still don't believe it...! But you saw an engine run all day with no sump?
VW Cool,
Well, we were all third year apprentices, so naturally we took 3/4 of an hour for our 1/2 hour lunch break to go to the pub, but other than that, (the Nulon guy's came with us) when we weren't actually watching it we were in a classroom next to the workshop and could hear it running. Much attention was being paid as some one was running a book on what time the engine would seize.
Matt.
I was told years ago by a Nulon Competitor that at high temperatures Nulon would break down and damage Your engine..... that was part of His selling technique.....
The same fellow did however confide in Me, that car engines never actually reached that high a temperature....
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
