I would like to decrease the squatting I see on acceleration. I'm pretty sure I nead to stiffen the rear up by either increasing the dampening rate in the rear shocks or would it be better to increase the spring rate? Would stiffer front shocks have the same effect?
Doesn't the country buggy have something that puts the nose down under acceleration? A bloke called Michael when i was at MidlifeCrisis's house (Marc) was educating me about it. was interesting actually.
Is it the squating when launching or under acceleration down the straights etc? if its launch, shocks should be able to fix it, if its on the straights its a spring thing......
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Stiffer rear springs will give you more steering at speed. You may need to look at both front and rear spring rates to keep balance and also play with dampers at the rear.
Brendan
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Increase the compression damping and tighten the preload on the rear. A small increase in rear ride height may help too.
Stiffer front shocks will make it worse as it will keep the front up.
luck,
KKK
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Is there any reason why you want to stop it squating in the rear the way it does? i.e. hits bump stops, $hit handling etc. At least you know the rear suspension is working.
White Knuckle Racing Team [/i] "Drive it like dirt"
On hard acceleration in mid corner or later the rearward weight transfer unsettles the car and tends to understeer. Seems to me that a lot of energy is wasted in pointing the front to the sky:P
Spyder-WISD 07-09-05 11.6s @ 125 MPH
Speedster-WISD Nats 05 14.4s @ 89 MPH
Jet cruiser-Coogee 22-09-05 900 deg C @ 110,000 rpm
Weaseling out of things is what separates us from the animals....................Except the Weasel.
Hi Pete,
I would agree with what has been said already by BiX and others.
Shock compression rates may do what you want,
but will just delay the inevitable squat that comes with light spring rates(rear).
Were talking 10 second power levels here!
Try stiffening the rear compression, and front extension, but you may develop traction issues.
Any photos of the trailing arms and shock mounts?
DB.
It is probably a big job, but you may like to move the pivot point
of the trailing arm up on the chassis?
It depends on the COG height, but this mod can reduce weight transfer.
I would also include modify/change front springs rates to suit rears, if you want to keep the handling front to rear the same. You may also be able to decrease sway bar dia with the stiffer springs, as this will keep roll the same, will making the car stiffier in pitch?
But then the car could get to stiff.......
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
Increase rear spring a fair bit, rear shock a little bit, + probably remove rear sway bar completely to maintain drive on inside wheel, trim with front sway bar.
Or, put a massive turbo on so you dont get any acceleration out of corners 🙂
The Yokohama A048s you now have on the rear have a stiffer construction which works like a heavier spring. Many of the competitors who have moved from the A032 to the A048 have had to soften the rear spring rates.
That won't help the squatting issue but you may go the wrong way in your set-up unless you allow for the stiffer construction.
