Learner ·
Aussieveedubbers · Offroad V-Dubs
Building a baja need help
https://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/threads/54756/building-a-baja-need-help
sinecure ·
bajachris88 ·
What beetle model to use:
Everything pre 70s will work out great, cause it all involves torsion bar, and NO STRUTS!. HOWEVER, make sure that later models DO NOT have Mcpherson strut suspension (that is found on the super bugs). The rest have torsion bar suspension, which not only makes the wheel go up and down, but also around, which inturn makes the 'shock' of a bump less painful on the car. Struts however, only go up and down, not backwards and get a far extra pounding from offroad bumps. Not only does this kill the struts, they are also expensive to replace.
For all other bugs, look for torsion bar suspension, preferably IRS rather than swing axel in the rear (IRS may have more bits to go wrong, but allows for better control and vehicle stability as it doesn't have as much camber play as say a swing axel.
Now there is quiet long debates about the front end of a bug (suspension). Without having struts, ur looking at either a King and Link front beam suspension, or Ball joint. King and link is said to have more suspension travel, but apparently they can screw up more often or something... Big debate, that pretty much ends in a way where each type, whether it be k&L or BJ, they both do the job to an appropriate standard, and both are used by pros.
Most bug models have all drum brakes on EVERY wheel, cept some of the 1500 series bugs (from like late 67/68 to 71 or something) have disks on the front beam (if semi auto, which also had IRS, while all other 1500 series bugs, (NON SEMI AUTO) had swingaxel). 71' and later had disk brakes on front too, and IRS! (drums still on rear, but that is when McPherson strut came out too) Apparently in 1974 i think it was, or was it 76? THe bugs went back to Ball joint torsion bar front beams, and had the IRS suspension, and disk brake front end. They are the BEST pans to use, cause otherwise the mods u look at doing to make it have those features cost more than a 74/76 bug itself....
1500 series bugs are said to be the strongest outta the lot (And still common compared to say the 74or76 or wateva it was.. as u can see from this, the main reason of choice lies in the suspension type more than anything. Its one of those very important choices for offroad that can be very beneficial, if ur suspension choices a re selected correctly. ANY suspension setup will do u alright with no trubs, AS LONG as its not MCPHERSON STRUT!
HOWEVER! do be aware, that if u get a 70s or earlier bug for bajaing' its going to be easier for you to do mods on it (cause it is said to be PRE-ADRS [Australian design rules]. which are just a set of engineering and vehicle standards that make it harder to register and comply/certify a vehicle)
Where to get Cheetah Kits:
www.customoffroad.com.au has them... although their price has hiked by like $200 over the last 12 months... other than that.. there is:
http://www.fibrefab.com.au/ They are around the same price, think $50 cheaper...
Other than that, U CAN! get a VERY good condition 2nd hand kit from $150 to $500... just depends how lucky u are in regards to getting a good price, BUT THERE ARE a heap out there just lying around. Even if it ain't in perfect nick, its fibre glass, spend a few days glassing/sanding etc, good as new.
Just go into the Want To Buy Parts section in this forum, and put up a thread, saying u want to buy a cheetah baja kit (Specify that it is also a wide eyed baja kit in ur title too!)
Other Considerations:
Other considerations in regards to beetle models include that the 1500 series and later have collapsible steering wheel columns, a 1.5 ltr engine and are 12 volt. Earlier model bugs (67' and earlier) have 1300, and 1200 ltr engines and if stock, are 6 Volt rather than 12volt. + purists and can rank if its a pre-60s bug getting bajaed Lol. The super bugs have 1.6ltr engines that can be engine swapped with say the 1500 series (1.5 ltr), just unbolt, and rebolt the other one in, they are interchangable. however, putting a 1.6ltr into a 67' and earlier is a little more work, as the bell housing in the gearbox WONT fit the 12v flywheel, so u will have to ground out the bell housing, or swap flywheels over.
Now... please everyone, if there is something wrong, please tell me, i dont' wanna give wrong info away, but I hope this does help.
I been doing aaalllloooottt of research over the past 12 months on this, my project is out the back yard, lol.
Learner ·
Learner ·
bajachris88 ·
sinecure ·
Anthiron ·
http://www.buggyadventures.com.au/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=index
lots off offroader only VW enthusists to help.
Nick
bajachris88 ·
Lol, slowly trying to get an army against those purists 😂sinecure wrote:Looking for another convert to the Semi Auto Baja side, eh Chris 😉
Baja Wes ·
It has the widest guards, and their shape looks right.
Heaps of kits out there have smaller weak flimsy guards and generally don't look right.
Staying pre-72 will work out better if you want to modify it (from a legal modification point of view).
Easiest option is to buy a baja that already has the conversion papers and everything for it.
aussiebaja ·
Learner ·
Anthiron ·
but if u can get a semi auto and convert it to manual transmission.
this gives you a balljoint front IRS rear bug which is perfect for a baja.
semi autos had IRS this is the good thing about them. just need to weld in a clutch tube and change gearbox.
bajachris88 ·
I got a workshop manual that describes overhaulling a gearbox... if the semi auto proves a pain, am gonna play with the gear ratios i rekon 😀 Next biggest thing after getting the 'thing' on the road. If i take out the semi auto to do that, either way, if i screw it by not overhauling correctly, i go manual, if not, i put it back in with different gears.
MISS VDUB ·
-Staggers.
bajachris88 ·
Plenty extra stuff u gotta muck around with when it comes to a semi auto, but so far, the concept is kool. mention semi auto to any common bommodore luving thug, and they scatch there head in interest and a slight display of wtf. 😂 This what i luv bout it!
MISS VDUB ·
Definately NOT the best. (Think ADR's people)Apparently in 1974 i think it was, or was it 76? THe bugs went back to Ball joint torsion bar front beams, and had the IRS suspension, and disk brake front end. They are the BEST pans to use.
-Staggers.
bajachris88 ·
But its just a matter of adjusting the gearing inside to make it appropriate for offroad use, if it really is a problem. but i would really like to get an opinion from a semi auto baja owner, cause its all word of mouth and a myth really, and i'm sure they are right, but the concept of the torque convertor brings around some doubt in my mind that it should be Alright to some degree. Only 1 way to find out!
Learner ·
Learner ·
bajachris88 ·
Yeah, can wait till i solve the mystery, lol. might be a while, but the IRS, balljoint and disk brake front ends of the semi auto pan make it Great for offroading, cheaper to have it that way then pay for mods to make a k&l swinger pan equivalent.
The next step IS to look into that. Yet again, it can be a case of 'word of mouth' and more a chinese whispers as to wats legal or not. But best bet is to start a thread in this forum about what legal questions u want to ask, and the majorities opinion would 99% of the time be correct.
bajachris88 ·
My recommendation would be Stephen Blackburn, he professionalises in automotive trade training and assessment, buyers vehicle inspections, BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY Modification blue plates.
+ HE OWNS A VOLKSWAGEN AND IS VERY FAMILIAR WITH THEM. Going to an engineer with no past experience in dubs is a BIG risk, i personally rekon.
his mob: 0413 005 387, Office: (07) 3848 4225, or better off, email him at: steveblackburn@bigpond.com, and request some information to either be emailed or posted out perhaps, or just ask in an email ur interested in doing a baja, what kinda legalities you would be looking at. hes a pro, and will be giving you DIRECT advice from the rule books.
Baja Wes ·
You will likely have the problem that the torque converter tries to fully engage the motor at a low rpm, and at this low rpm the engine won't have the power to push the car up the hill.
This will be worse on a baja than a standard semi-auto beetle for two reasons. 1- a standard beetle rarely has to drive up, or start off on 30-35 degree hills, and 2 - a baja version has bigger tyres that makes the gearing even higher than it already is.
To get around the problem you'd need a more powerful motor, and to modify the torque converter for a higher "stall" rpm. Both of these mods make the semi-auto user-unfriendly. Even mild engine mods can change the engine vacuum behaviour enough to change how the vacuum operated clutch behaves.
A guy in the manxclub had a buggy with a type auto (full auto) and a clapped out vw engine. With the tall tyres it didn't have the power to reverse in sand. The torque converter was trying to full engage the engine at a low rpm, where it had no power. I think he had the engine rebuilt and now it can reverse ok, but it's a sign of the problems you'd have with the very tall gearing of the semi-auto.
As for legal mods, well at the moment every state in different. But that is in the process of changing. More info here;
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=45254
The rules applying to Vic at the moment can be found on their website (or at least a summary of them);
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrne/vrne5nav.nsf/childdocs/-D6B2343989C152A5CA256FD300241C34-EEC8092FE0E5478FCA256FD300241C39?open
There you will find their modification guide;
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsafe/VSI%208.pdf
They also have this good FAQ type document;
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/vrpdf/rdsafe/VSI%2020.pdf
bajachris88 ·
hopefully wes will be there to drag my sorry ass outta the sand HAHA!
was thinking for a sec that the pressure of the atf fluid in the torque convertor would be pretty high, and things may need to be 'boosted' up a bit, especially with a slow moving car and a fast turning engine...
[ Edited on 30/7/2006 by bajachris88 ]
Baja Wes ·
Unfortunately that info is incorrect. Only QLD has blue plates as such.bajachris88 wrote:When it comes to legalities, in regards to baja kits, its just a matter of getting a blue plate for your kit conversion u put on the body. Simply just a matter of seeing an engineer.
But even in QLD a Baja Conversion can not be approved with a blue plate, this is because there is no modification code for a Baja Conversion. Blue plates are only used for modifications under a certain code (LA - engine, LB - transmission etc).
In QLD you actually have to take the car to a QLD transport inspection station, they inspect the car and give you a stamped certificate. Technically you are supposed to fill out a modification approval form before starting the modifications.
bajachris88 ·
Baja Wes ·
Most of these are for safety and to meet ADR's.
They want big washers used on the bolts holding the guards on, they like it if they have rubber behind the washer too but I don't think it's a must have.
They want rear mud flaps, full width engine cage and full width front bumper. If made from pipe, the pipe must be capped (no sharp edges).
Cage needs mesh to keep unwanted hands from contacting the hot exhaust or sticking fingers in pulleys.
All common sense kinda stuff.
bajachris88 ·
The nude end of the bug eyed is nice, although not necessarily practical.
By the way, thanx for this info ur sharing, i neva thought about having washers, smart move to prevent cracking though in the guards
Anthiron ·
bajachris88 ·
would rather be hind by a fibreglass nose than a steel bull bar. but on the bright side, will keep the fibreglass and Roos apart.
cheers nick
Learner ·
[ Edited on 31-7-2006 by Learner ]
Baja Wes ·
* check out my car http://www.offroadvw.net/
* go to the manxclub gallery http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/ - Baja's scattered through-out that site.
* there's even a short vid of my car offroading here http://www.manxgallery.org/gallery/BlackDuck2004
Baja Wes ·
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=45382&page=1
bajachris88 ·
bajachris88 ·
Learner ·
aussiebaja ·
Baja Wes ·
I posted some new videos of my Baja (3 with the old VW engine) on my website;
http://www.offroadvw.net/bajawes/video.html
subibaja ·
64vwmark ·
Learner ·
Learner ·
5lam ·
THUDKNUCKLE ·
http://groups.msn.com/GottaVW
Learner ·
shaihulud ·
Get an already converted and registered as such after market convertible and then Baja it.
PLEASE, PLEASE ,PLEASE, REMEMBER THIS.
BAJA IS CORRECTLY PRONOUNCED BARHAR NOT BARJAR.
It is a Spanish/Mexican word and in Spanish J is pronounced H or in not pronounced at all. So the man's name Juan is pronounced Wahn not Jewahn.
Learner ·
Learner ·
but what i tthink is... You'll get to love it once you have your licence!
bajachris88 ·
If u were going to convert a convertible to a baja, make sure u give the pan extra support to stop flexing over bumps and corners (IE: a roll bar, or a body lift kit) otherwise u can end up getting cracks in ur chassis NOT PRETTY!. Just be weary too when u play in the mud... u will get dirty on the inside and outside :P Hehe. unless u got a good soft top... but beware, trees, overhanging branches etc, and the weight of the mud can rip, tear, damage and dislodge it.shaihulud wrote:Learner. A convertible Baja would be very cool. but if you Baja a genuine Beetle Cabriolet you could get lots of flack for ruining a cabriolet.
Get an already converted and registered as such after market convertible and then Baja it.
PLEASE, PLEASE ,PLEASE, REMEMBER THIS.
BAJA IS CORRECTLY PRONOUNCED BARHAR NOT BARJAR.
It is a Spanish/Mexican word and in Spanish J is pronounced H or in not pronounced at all. So the man's name Juan is pronounced Wahn not Jewahn.
for all u purists out there, did ya see that oval baja at valla :P 😂
Learner ·
Learner ·
bajachris88 ·
69'? Great yr! Juzt like mine 😀 baja all the way dude. any trubs don't hesitate to ask us.
Learner ·
MUD BASHING ANYONE ?? ·
bajachris88 ·
subibaja ·
do you have your licence yet ,
are you even old enough to get it yet
you seem to give out a lot of advice
for someone who knows nothing
terry
makntracks ·
Baja Wes ·
The add-on stiffening would have been required to get the convertible approved, and therefore cannot be removed unless you get the approval done again. And only then providing the lift kit provides enough additional strength to replace what is under the chassis.
You will need an approval engineer to make this judgement. The design of the stiffening needs to be in accordance with mod code LH1 of the (Queensland) code of practice for light vehicle modifications. The construction must be in accordance with LH2.
Learner ·
As for the Fuel I'm getting confused. Using unleaded will kill the engine won't it?
subibaja ·
so that would answer the question
Learner ·
Baja Wes ·
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=49875
Basically unleaded will be fine, but is a lower octane rating then leaded so it may knock. If it does then you need to use premium unleaded.
A more informative read than the above thread can be found here;
http://www.vw-resource.com/leaded.html
Learner ·
Learner ·
[ Edited on 25-8-2006 by Learner ]
Baja Wes ·
Let the games begin 🙂
MickH ·
Learner ·
Learner ·
makntracks ·
Baja Wes ·
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=45239
The thing is it worked for us because we also run the engines and wiring looms that go with those dashes.
To use it with a VW you'd have to also use a speed sensor and something to calibrate the speedo to the different VW wheel size. The tacho would be a little tricky too.
[ Edited on 25-9-2006 by Baja Wes ]
Learner ·
Learner ·
how do i fix it? is there suppose to be quite a bit of fuel in the fiulter?
aussiebaja ·
stevosky ·
Learner ·
Anthiron ·
better to start with a car in good condition than a shit heap and there will always be people who will judge you for doing it but who cares.
Baja Wes ·
Sorry, this one;Learner wrote:which thread?
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=45239
Learner ·
bajachris88 ·
I agree... otherwise u end up with a poo heap like mine and ur busy scratching ur ass while staring at some nasty rust... wondering wtf was i thinking... lol 😀:thumbAnthiron wrote:nah stick with your origional plans. it will be rewarding in the end.
better to start with a car in good condition than a shit heap and there will always be people who will judge you for doing it but who cares.
CHOP DA BUGGER!! LOL!
slice and dice... mumma its mincin' time!
bajachris88 ·
for any recreational dub, anyone can tend u just get away with the body kit and not very much work on the running gear...Learner wrote:what are the first modification would people suggest i should do to a baja? after the body being done.
BUT! what i would think of is strengthening the tie rods once i get my kit all on and body ready, cause they get bent very easily on the rough terrain.
I did hear somewhere about like some certain yr model bug tie rods being alright and a little stronger than others. was it the 1500 model ones? If so then score 😀😀
Otherwise mate, i got Jeff Hibbards guide to baja bugs and buggies, and it tells ya how u can strengthen em... might be able to scan some info... wil lc what ican do, scanner is all packed up at the moment cause of the house move... cheaper DIY though. if u want the info, give me ur email and will c what i can do... even if i retype it out.
otherwise... u should be fine for a recreational... can get away with stock air filter, even stock exhaust or even stock wheels if u wanted to be really low budget and have crappy traction, lol. (although u will stare and not like the bicycle wheels being on a baja with such fat guards, it neva looks right)
Learner ·
thanx for that
Learner ·
i want to replaces the stock shifter i've got any suggestions? i've her lots about the SCAL drag fast. is it really worth it and does the 40-60% throw reduction a benefit? unless street racing ofcourse
Learner ·
Anthiron ·
id
a) get the body chopped and the kit fitted (use new fender beading)
b) get some wider wheels and tyres for the rear
c) get an offroad exhuast
d) make sure all the stock components are in good condition and working order before u start modfying things!!! unless you are replacing the item.
lots of people run stock tie rods including me and sure they bend. but u can get them easily, if u make your tie rods indestructable then you no longer have that weak spot and the shock is transfered down the line to the much more expensive steering box, my opinion anyway.
as for a shifter you can get a short throw kit for a stock shifter and an empi knob which will cost you about $40 instead of hundreds for a hi po shifter.
Sandy ·
Learner ·
as far as exhausts i think i'll settle in with a 4 into 1 as i've heard many good things about them how ever i'm getting overwelmed by the amount of brands and types and kits etc... plus just recently i heard about a 4 into 2 into1 does anyone knows anything about them?
Baja Wes ·
The best thing to do is get an old front sway bar, but it up and put the long straight part down the middle of the long tie rod.Anthiron wrote:lots of people run stock tie rods including me and sure they bend. but u can get them easily, if u make your tie rods indestructable then you no longer have that weak spot and the shock is transfered down the line to the much more expensive steering box, my opinion anyway
This strengthens the long tie rod, and stops it from bending. But it has a little give and doesn't really shock everything else much different to what the stock tie-rod does anyway.
Wheels that are offset outwards give the tie-rods a harder life. This is because when you hit something with the front of the wheel, the force in an offset wheel goes to the outside of the spindle turning pivot point. So it essentially tries to turn the wheel outwards, which compresses the tie-rod. The bigger the offset, the bigger the turning force, and the bigger the compression force in the tie-rod.