Has anyone had any experience breaking a rear axle.
Ive fitted Bay IRS to my bus project but since I cant get a rear disc brake set up for that size axle, I am considering going back to Type 1 or 3 axles and trailing arms.
Yeah , bad planning!
thankya!
Mark
[ Edited on 5-10-2006 by choppa ]
Kraut axles are made from pretty stern stuff M8. You could try real hard and possibly break a 36hp tapered axle but thew rest should do the job.
L8tr
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Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
I guess you mean stub axles?
The actual axles are the same diameter and spline pattern for type 1, 2 and 3. The type 2 are just longer. So they all should be about the same strength.
The type 1 stub axles are stronger than the axles. You won't break a stub axle unless you are doing something really silly.
Wes -
www.offroadvw.net - 200HP Quad Cam V6 in a VW Baja - with climate control...
🙂
www.taylorcycles.com.au - My DH MTB racing brothers shop.
Are thanks.
Yeah I was talkin the stub axles. :thumb
Bay ones are 35mm diameter and Beetle and Type 3 are 30mm I think.
Thats eased my concerns abit. Early splittys had 30mm stubs anyway.
Its a street bus but it will have a bit of mumbo one day. Hence the 4 wheel discs i am fitting.
Cool.
Ahh sry my bad. i didnt read it carefully enough.........duh!
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
I have never had a stub axle fail.
Both the IRS axles and stubs will serve you well.
The CV may need to be upgraded to bus ones though, depending on engine torque.
I have see the thread end fall off on a stock type 3 though, from over tensioning.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Hi Mark,
I still have some customers running type3 stubs in off road buggies. They don't have any problems with the stubs breaking, but with that hard work of all the jumps and stuff the spline on the hub ware over a long time (years).
I do however have a set of discs made from a 1968 wide 5 bay (long stub axle) drum. These are made for racing and not for road use and run Commodore front callipers (1085 pads). They are as strong as but because they have been fabricated and machined up out of the Kombi drum and a Jeep rotor with an adapter plate, you would be hard pressed to get it passed for road use. Also if you don’t care at all alloy racing hubs in wide 5 with Kombi spline start at $550…..lol
Thanks boys.
Thats confirmed it. I am gonna go start cutting the bay pivots out tonight.
Dont think my bus will be runnin berms or doin mono's but its nice to know the T1 axles will do the job.
Yeah I am gonna run bus CV's inner and outer.
I have a set of discs that will slide on the small axles and should pass inspection as is. So shouldnt have trouble there .
Mark
Check with John Sherman in Qld.-fairly sure he has a disc kit for the 35mm stub axle.
Yeah
cheers,
oh well the angle grinders already done his work
choppa wrote:Yeah I am gonna run bus CV's inner and outer.
How are you going to use bus CV's with the beetle stub axle? The PCD is different.
MikeM wrote:choppa wrote:Yeah I am gonna run bus CV's inner and outer.
How are you going to use bus CV's with the beetle stub axle? The PCD is different.
yup, tis y kombi box conversions in bugs require modded axles...
🙁(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
bajachris88 wrote:yup, tis y kombi box conversions in bugs require modded axles... 🙁
No. The reason they require modded axles is because the Kombi box is wider then a Beetle box making the distance between the gearbox CV flange and the stub axle flange shorter. The Kombi CV's are also wider then a beetle CV so the splined section of the beetle axle is not long enough to accept Kombi CVs.
In a split IRS conversion using a kombi box you use the stock bay window axles so this is not a problem. If you are using beetle stub axles you could use a beetle CV on the outers and a kombi CV on the inners and it will work fine.
[/quote]
How are you going to use bus CV's with the beetle stub axle? The PCD is different. [/quote]
I used some old bus drive flanges, and shrunk the outer part onto a turned down beetle stub.
Then welded them in place.
Or you can use Thing or early 944(?) stubs.
Many US advertisers sell the conversion stubs...CB comes to mind.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Yeah EMPI now makes output bells to fit T1 spline and T2 spline and with bus cv flange. About $50 us and they also make T1 stubs with bus cv flanges at about $70us.
Most decent us retailers sell em. They look good quality.
On my notch I have T1 stubs with bus flanges shrunk and welded on as Dave said. They work well.
Rancho sells all that stuff as well as Moors and CB's and Serranos I think.
As for the axles I am eaither gonna turn down the bus cv inner spline hub to fit the T1 axle spline length or cut and narrow a bus axle to the right overall length.
Not too sure yet. Maybe ill have to run custom axles.
Mark
