Trying to get the nuts off the rear axle, but they're stuck solid. got a mate to borrow a 3/4 inch rattle gun and sockets from work but even they wont budge em.
Anyone got any hints or tips on how to get em off?
heat, but don't overdo it
[ Edited on 7-10-2006 by mackaymanx ]
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]What i have used and ALWAYS works is a battle axe and breaker bar.
Bu battle axe i mean a piece of steel Holzl mad up that looks like a battle axe. About 4' - 5' long and you bolt it to the face of the drum. This wedges it so as it wont move and is fuxed by the length of it.
Then just a normal 1/2" drive with fixed leaver and a 4' - 5' long braeker.
Always worked.
Futue te ipsum!!!
forget rattle guns.
most of them operate to about 80 pounds i think.
that nut should be 270pounds ????????
get a 36mm 3/4inch socket, sliding bar and a big arse peice of pipe.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
The best thing to do with a nut that wont move using the above methods is to cut it off. Saw it with a junior hacksaw as much as you can, then use a cold chisel to crack it in two. Make sure you have a spare.
Cheers
Steve
You can buy nut splitters.
As for the rattle gun its not the air pressure that undoes stuck nuts but the "impact" of the rattling mechanism.
For the stuck nut a good soaking in your prefurred possium piss and try a impact Driver.These are like a manual rattle gun.You hit them with a hammer.
Or failing that get A long piece of flatbar and drill 2 holes so they line up with the wheel nut holes on the drum.The bar should be long enough to hit the ground when the drum turns.This should stop it moving whilst your trying to undo it.Borrow you neighbours 3/4 breaker bar and put a 5 or 6 foot length of pipe on it and swing baby.
if u cant crack it with a breakerbar then like a few ppl said split it off with a chisel
i put rediculous amounts of heat and camels piss into mine and my poor bug was almost wheel standing to get the nuts to come off
i think some smart arse had over tightened them to buggery
heres what i found when the nut finally came off
thread? what thread? lol
axles and nuts all rooted on both sides
wish i hadda split them off in the first place
its easier to get new nuts than to get new axles or machined down and new threads cut in and new nuts anyway.....
-Joel
Damage is done now but i bought one of these things.
No bloody great breaker bars and special sockets, no trying to sprag wheels with chunks of steel and hitting the shit out of everything. No cold chisels or blue toungued spanners.
This simple and elegant tool allows me to loosten/tighten my flywheel gland nuts WITHOUT having to lock the flywheel at all.
Same for doing up and undoing those pesky axle nuts.
Try getting an axle nut off a vagrant transmission laying on the ground by yourself fools!
Works on 6 or 12V flywheels and wide 5 and 130pcd 4 stud.
You can all suck eggs with your sledgehammers, lengths of steam pipe and expensive 3/4" breaker bars LMAO! The cost alone of a decent socket and breaker bar is at least as much as one of these.
Use one of these things just once and youll wonder WHY you ever bothered with all that other unsophisticated crap!
l8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
All that unsophisticated crap is what I own and have to use every day, that's why I use them... But I will be investing in a torque tool like yours soon too.
When I had my RWC done on Veronika a few years back, the RWC officer used an impact gun to remove the rear nut to check the brakes. Four weeks later the nut came off (As a result of the axle thread being stripped) while doing 80kph and thus the wheel and drum became separated from where I tend to keep them.
I do not recommend using pnumatic impact tools on them at all!
-Staggers.
STAGGERS AUTOMOTIVE - Heavy Vehicle Diesel Specialist
JB CUSTOMS & CLASSICS - Car Builders
2/53 Tradelink Drive, Browns Plains
also try hitting the socket when you are applyng load. works like an impact driver.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
thats all very well and good TSV
but where the F**K do u get them??
hey staggers, reminds me of a funny pic i've got
-Joel
Well I actually offered to do a group buy of them some time ago which would reduce the cost of them in Oz to below a hundred bucks each and was soundly howled down by the purveyors of sledgehammers, 10 foot lengths of steel pipe, big arsed breaker bars and the like that dont really fit in my bits and bobs box I take to race meetings. So I didnt bother and just bought my own for 45 dollars USD plus post.
I use this crowd in the US for a lot of my stuff.
http://www.sracing.com/Store/FV_Stuff/FV_Stuff.htm
Youll find the entry for the Toirquemiester low down in the "Tools" section.
I usually get my stuff from them as fast as from mainland Oz.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
Volkswagenboy wrote:All that unsophisticated crap is what I own and have to use every day, that's why I use them... /quote]
Ill just repeat this bit.
Use one of these things just once and youll wonder WHY you ever bothered with all that other unsophisticated crap!
Nuff said!
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
didnt volksfolks (Andy)have these for sale at one stage?????
meetings 1st sunday of the month
check wbsite for location
All Welcome
http://www.flatfour.org/
and on Facebook
https://www.facebook.com/FlatFourHi
Just note on tightening. I have a 3/4 tension wrench, when I tighten my axle nuts with it to 240 flbs I can do it one handed, so it just goes to show how much your nuts have been over tightened.
Steve
Buy the tool that tassupervee showed. It will save you a lot of heartache, swearing and a lot of other things! I thought Andy had these as well!
Rob...
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
Don't forget to use plenty of anti-seize when you put the nuts back on. This won't be the last time you (or someone else) has to remove them. A bit on the splines doesn't hurt either, makes the drums a bit easier to get off. May as well put some on the wheel bolts while you're there.
Matt.
Empi makes a spanner that looks a bit like a figure of 8 about 6 inches long and is made of 1/2 inch thick steel. You lock the brakes, chock the wheel, put it out of gear so that there is no impact on the differential and hit the spanner with a really big hammer. You can also fit a long 1/2 inch drive lever on it at the same time. That's 2 for the price of 1.
As to what to use as a penetrating oil?
EUCALYPYUS OIL.
It's the best penetrating oil on the entire planet.
Euci it, for a few days and then whale into it with the spanner, lever and hammer.
When reassembling it, wire brush the threads and oil the nut and shaft. Then it will never be a removal problem again.
Just on air tools.The local tyre place rattled my rear wheels on and as soon as i drove it there was a noticable pulsing on my pedal! I think the overtighning also warped the brake drum?
i meant foot pounts of tourque not psi when i was talking about the rattle gun sorry.
VW drums are cast out of quite a soft metal.
dont let tyre places use rattle guns on your wheels!!!!
loosen them now!! but u may find it is too late.
the pulsing is because the drum is now warped to fit perfectly into the imperfections of your wheel center which then changes the innner circumference of the drum that the shoes contact.
62/60 model bug eye baja bug, (Full Build in Progress)
1974 Chevrolet Luv
1970 MK2 Ford Cortina GT
1979 Yamaha RX125 Two Stroke tracker project.
2004 Harley Davidson Sportster XL Custom
If you have wide 5 wheels, they must go back onto the same drum and in exactly the same bolt holes or you will get pulsing. The wheel and drum form into a set and it needs to be re-established every time.
What I do is to mark the wheel and drum with a centre punch so that the drum and wheel are matched every time. I mark one drum and wheel with one centre punch mark, another with two, etc. So that the wheels and drums are always re-assembled as they came apart.
What you need to do is to remove the wheels, refit them until the pulsing stops and then mark them accordingly.
Do it ASAP to be able to find the old positions.
Good demo of a Hans device on the site tassupervee recommended
http://www.sracing.com/hans.htmQuote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]If the drum/rim is a set What happens when you put ondiffrent rims like mags or chromies etc?
I have changed wheel/tyre combos many times and havn't came across this. Actually my vw handbook( the one in the glovebox when origanally purchased) gives a diagram on wheel rotation.
And yeah my drums warped.I have fitted another, but alway stress to the tyre fitters, i don't mind them rattling the nuts off but reinstall by hand please.
Place here in Mackay uses a torque wrench when they do up all wheel nuts.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]
