Hey Craig punching the pins out is pretty easy,but putting new ones in is a bastard
because part of the pin is a different size,i had to get them machined up & knurled
@ one end & hinges drilled to suit,i also took the hinges off the door to get cad
plated,worth doing for a nice car.
dutchy wrote:Hey Craig punching the pins out is pretty easy
You have got to be kidding! Punching the old pins out can be virtually impossible!!! If they are at all rusted inside (as many are) they can be completely siezed. It can take a blowtorch and/or drilling to loosen them... obviously the blowtorch ruins your paintwork but sometimes that is the only way, which is why this job is best done as part of a resto.
Handy Hint: punch the top pin out UPWARDS, if you punch it down it will gouge the door before it is all the way out.
$70.00 PER PIN
i WAS QUOTED THIS NOT 1 HOUR AGO IN SYDNEY. SEEMS CHEAP TO ME.. IF IT TOOK ME 4 HOURS FOR 4 PINS I WOULD DEFINATELY RATHER SPEND $280.00 AND GET AN EXPERT TO DO IT..
If you have the tool, you could make aa lot of money hiring it out , or, you could be really generous and post technical drawings for making one on AVD.
I have made one years ago that used a fine thread bolt ground to an end and a piece of high tensile welded to the end, then a piece of steel with hinge type mounts welded to it. Picture a chain tool.
Pused the pins out eventually. Heat, penetrine and perseverance. Dont rush it. Thermal cycles are your friend.
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
BizarreModeratorThe artist formerly known as blue74l
koolkarmakombi wrote:I have made one years ago that used a fine thread bolt ground to an end and a piece of high tensile welded to the end, then a piece of steel with hinge type mounts welded to it. Picture a chain tool.
Pused the pins out eventually. Heat, penetrine and perseverance. Dont rush it. Thermal cycles are your friend.
I"ll have a sex change and do whatever I can to have your babies, to get one of those hinge pin tools.
Unfortunatelly, I'm on a carer's pension, so I can't afford the operation, drawings via u2 would help. I'm pretty sure I know a retired fitter & turner (who is also an AVD'er) Who could make one.
If not (technical) drawings then maybe some pics from different perspectives with same camera settings & distance from lense etc.
DUBB61 said he got his pins out by making a bowl of blu tac around the top of the hinge and filled it with WD-40 and let it sit overnight, next day it just popped out with a punch and hammer.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Craig Torrens wrote:Sounds like it's easier to just relocate the external trim holes on the later door, instead of replacing the pins in the 1500 door.
Sounds like you could be repainting anyway, in which case you really should take this opportunity to replace the pins. They already have 30 or 40 years of wear and so this is the perfect chance to put new ones in to last the next 30 to 40 years.... much better than having saggy doors like many bugs do.
1959 red & white Beetle
1975 Kombi camper
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
This disclaimer does not reflect the thoughts or opinions of either myself, my company, my friends, or my dog: don't quote me on that; don't quote me on anything; this disclaimer is subject to change without notice; text is slightly enlarged to show detail; resemblance to actual persons, living or dead, is unintentional and coincidental; dry clean only; do not bend, fold, or mutilate; anchovies or jalapenos added to this disclaimer upon request; your mileage may vary; no substitutions are allowed; for a limited time only while supplies last; offer void where prohibited; this disclaimer is provided "as is" without any warranties expressed or implied
koolkarmakombi wrote:Dont use wd40, its a useless penetrator.
Use a proper penetrating compound or deisel.
Thermal cycles are your friend!
Jet A-1 turbine fuel and Jet oil in a 50-50 mix is the business, use it at work and free's anything it touches, too bad it aint available to the public, that jet oil is a nasty synthetic product and at $30 a pint it aint cheap either.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
koolkarmakombi wrote:Dont use wd40, its a useless penetrator.
Use a proper penetrating compound or deisel.
Thermal cycles are your friend!
Jet A-1 turbine fuel and Jet oil in a 50-50 mix is the business, use it at work and free's anything it touches, too bad it aint available to the public, that jet oil is a nasty synthetic product and at $30 a pint it aint cheap either.
It's a pitty about the Jet oil because Jet A-1 is readily available, can you say kerosene.
Can someone post here the HEIGHT of the hinge, PROTRUSION from the skin and the diameter of the hinge pin. This subject came up some time back and I now have some time to look at making a tool for the pin removal.
As I only play with Type 3s I haven't any Bug stuff on hand to measure.
DH
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
1500S wrote:Can someone post here the HEIGHT of the hinge, PROTRUSION from the skin and the diameter of the hinge pin. This subject came up some time back and I now have some time to look at making a tool for the pin removal.
As I only play with Type 3s I haven't any Bug stuff on hand to measure.
Wow,
some great looking pin pusher outers there....
if one of them could push the old pin out ...
Do You just knock a new pin in with a punch and hammer??
or use a pin putter in tool ????
I have tried to knock My door pins out without success...
the passenger door is OK...
the drivers door needs replacing...
the door isn't drooping,, but as i oil the pins every few weeks, i end up with oil all over the door...
I have never had any success driving the pins out of spare doors either... even after soaking for days...
Ive had no experience with beetle doors but on splittys its easy.
1...Take the door off , turn it upside down.
2...Lean it as close to virtical against your bus on a rubber mat or carpet.
3...Then fully support the hinge with a length of heavy steel tube or bar to the floor.
Preferably with anouther steel plate laying on a concrete floor.
4...Hammer out the pin with a punch
If this doesnt work you could try core drilling the top half of the pin to release some of the tension, but ive never needed this.
Craig. Have drawing from Matt and have a couple on the way now. Will let you know how they are going next week and you can pick one up and give it a go for us to see if it works OK.
