What is the difference in 'Link Pin' frame head and a 'ball joint' frame head? What would it take to 'modify' the existing L/P frame head, so I could put a ball joint front end, up to my existing frame head?
Regards,
Mark
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
I went through this SAGA in 1981 when i was trying to fit a Ball joint front end to a K / L pin front bulkhead.
the centers of the torsion bars are about 3/4 inches different thus the bulkhead frames where they bolt on are the same in difference.
The Ball joint front end has a greater or bigger distance between the tubes than the K n L
I thought about trying to cut the shock support struts and beam bar bolt frames and re weld them back together to suit and bolt up to the King n Link front bulkhead
but by doing this you could not get enough movement in the torsion arms ball joint to adjust the camber to a stock reading. Unless you ctuall bent the trailing torsion arms in a press then it would be trial n error.
The best method would be to graft a later ball joint front bulkhead onto the early floor pan.
I know this has been done with several Superbug chassis in order to piss of the bulky strut front end and get a torsion bar front end.
If you go down this path tak weld it into position and do heaps of check measurements t omake sure it aligns correctly... nothing worse than having incorrect camber n Castor in your wheels alignment
[Edited on 30-4-2003 by vw54]
Thanks Dave!
I've just bought a 'Ball joint', disc brake torsion bar front end assembly, but I've only got a floor pan with L/P frame head.
Does anyone have a 'Ball joint' type frame head for sale that I can fit/weld to my floor pan?
Regards,
Mark
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
New frame heads are available from Mick Motors . They were about $170 last time I bought one .
Yeah buy a new one it will be much stronger and easier to weld n graft into position ( new Metal )
Just make sure you fit the front end onto it once you have tacked it in place and measure measure measure...
as with the wide front end torsion bar on its easier to measure and get more accuracy, back to a common point on the existing chassis
Hope this makes sense
Thanks guys!
I'll get a new one from Mick.
Regards,
Mark
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
Thanks 1302steve.
That link was great. It was really just speaking of 'the experence' and
not really 'how' to 'do it', but helpful and a start.
Is there anyone else out there who has more tips on changing a Super Bug ('71),
'strut' front end, to a 'ball joint' front end? Photos, links, etc.
I want to do this right the first time, without guessing.
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
Why dont you fit lowering adjusters to the head while your at it??????
Keeping it real !
Silver, tell me more. How do I go about that? Are there 'instructions'
or hints on any web sites.
By the way, I'm a fitter/welder by trade and I've got a reasonably
good setup at my workshop. So are you (or anyone else) able to help
me with fitting lowering adjusters.
Regards,
Mark
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
Changing Frame heads over is pretty easy. Are you going from K&L or strut ?? Strut is a little bit harder as teh tunnel depth is greater and it doesn't line up as well. It does let you lift it 1" for free though.
Anyway either way just take a lot of measurements.
If going K&L to BJ do folliwing:
- with bare ban and K&L beam still in, measure from end of beam to rear torsion bar on both sides, they should be the same. If they are not note down the difference.
- Cut teh K&L frame head off about 1" in front of the little fire wall the pan has.
- Repeat this on BJ frame head.
- Now I use 2 44 gal drums and 2 x 3M lengths og 100mm RHS with 5mm wall on top like rails for a jig. Set it up levl and drop the pan on. Then simply slide the BJ frame head up to meet the cut. Now check it all for being square. Don't forget to check tilt as well.
- Then weld it all togeather, pretty simple really. I ofter weld a 100mm length of angle onto of the tunel to help me square it up.
Full job take around 3 hours of so once you get the hang of it and setup.
Brad, thanks for the info. I'm getting a new frame head from Mic Motors, so new metal will be good. I'm building a jig system at the moment, to make it easier.
I'm going from strut to B/J. I think the secret is to measure, measure and then check, then have another measure.
Thanks again. Keep the ideas comming because every bit helps.
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
Hi Mark check out indian automotives website and look at the angus adjusters they are easy to install for someone with your trade skills. they will give you the option to set any ride height you want
Keeping it real !
Correct me if I am wrong but angus adjusters only go down, you can't pre load them ..
If going strut to BJ, just remember that the strut tunnel is bigger than BJ at teh front. It drops about 1" below the floor. Also if getting a frame head of Mick you tell him what you are doing with it cause he has a few different styles in stock. You want the complete one.
Thanks everyone.
All this help is fantastic!
Regards,
Mark:thumb
Don't ever let anyone tell you, "It can't be done."
