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Type 2 Power

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pavelmac Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined May 2003 ·

#43336
I know questions on more power are common but I find little on type 4 engines.

I have a T2 (1972) with a 1800 T4 engine,. The engine runs well but really lacks go, like fourth gear is only flats and down hills !! I want a daily driver with a bit of spark.

My thoughts are :
Slap on some Kadron carbs, but I don't know if there is a version for the T4 engine.
Use other aftermarket carbs, but don't know what's compatable
Getting the stock carbs rebuilt to get better performance
Top end rebuild, maybe increasing capacity
Replacement 1800
Replacement 2L & gearbox
Is it worth replacing the dizi with a 009, if I keep my stock carbs ?

Can anyone suggest what options they believe are the best way to go

I've a budget of $2000 but previous experience leads me not do attempt the work myself, so my local Vdub garage will be doing the work.

Cheers

[Edited on 1-5-2003 by pavelmac]

crewcabconnection Being Sid James

1,922 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#43347
Talk to Kimm at Indian, they run t4s in thiers and have upped the umph. They did my t4. I run standard carbs a 009. Seems to go well, though I'm not a mechanic, so not sure what they do....They do service it every 6,000 kms at least, as the t4 engine does 'go off' when in Sydney traffic. Mines a 2.0 running and 1800 box, which gives me the best set up for motorway and in traffic driving...try them www.kruizinwagon.com.au
Loves a lolcat

Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds

2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#43364
The Type 4 VW engine is a very strong, very reliable unit that, in good condition, gives terrific performance. They run so well for so long that you don't notice the gradual drop off as they age.

Sounds like yours is just tired - 1800s should go a lot harder than that. The Type 4's weak point is the heads - they do suffer from valve seats and guides coming loose after many miles, and also cracking around the spark plug hole. I would bet that yours have large cracks in them. Do a compression check and see how tight everything is.

Type 4 bottom ends are pretty much bulletproof; its usually only wear on the cam and followers that forces you to split the case. If yours is running well in general, you may not need to.

1800 cylinders are 93mm, 2-litre ones are 94mm. The bigger ones fit straight into your case. Get new or reco'd heads, and that should do.

Forget kadrons and other aftermarket carbs. Rebuild the stock carbs and put them back on (with the stock VW air cleaner). They have a sophisticated triple idle system that was designed for smooth and reliable operation at low RPMS - where your Kombi will run. Once they are set up properly you won't have to touch them again.

Same with the 009 - forget it. Its crude mechanical advance is dependent on your engine's RPM, and can't detect your subtle throttle changes, particularly at low RPM (Kombis develop their maximum torque at 2800 rpm). The stock vacuum carb can - and the vacuum signal is linked in with the carb's idle and balance system. Leave the VW stuff on there!

With a nice, tight new motor, you will be pleasantly surprised at how well they go.

kombi_kid Moderator Good Kid too many projects

124 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#43417
hey
go to a 2L EFI if u can get one and run that standard and KEEP the standard exhaust extractors are crap!
cheers
rhys
it aint just cool its aircool'd

crewcabconnection Being Sid James

1,922 posts · joined Apr 2003 ·

#43423
nice work phil. keep talkin'.

My 2.0 is suffering from that valve sticking issue. Keeps running on 3 cylinders, and then throws everything outta whack.

Goes back to be fixed then after a 1000 klms is back to it's old tricks. Spluttering, idle issues, burning out rotors...

Suggestions?
Loves a lolcat

fatboy Disciple of Kol

603 posts · joined Nov 2002 ·

#43424
Your symptoms sound like my Kombi used to be (1700cc).
I discovered on Dyno day that my throttle pedal (Cant spell acellerater) wasn't opened the carbies all the way.
I got an EXTRA 32hp once it was fixed.

I would say get the problem fixed before looking at bolt on bits to xtra hp when you might not need it.
" Captain Picard, why are there no Indians on the Enterprise ? Don't you need IT Support ? "

kombikim disfunctionally capable

1,521 posts · joined Dec 2002 ·

#43436
Phil is da maaan

nice work phil. keep talkin':thumb

pavelmac Casual Dubber

30 posts · joined May 2003 ·

#43470
I did have the problem with the accelerater but the improvement still didn't please.

Sounds like a top end rebuild and overhaul the carbs.
Is my understanding right that I can put 2L pots on if I get 2L heads ?

Cheers for your comments.
:bounce

jeffh Casual Dubber

39 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#43473
The register in the 1800 heads and the 2L Heads is the same dia so you can use 2L barells in either.
But The 2L engine used a longer stroke crankshaft and longer conrods so the piston pin height will be wrong unless you change these as well.
Jeff

Phil74Camper Head in the Clouds

2,703 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#44602
Yes that's right, the 2-litre pistons and cylinders (94mm) will slot into an 1800 case, but they are designed for the 71mm crank (1800s have a 66mm crank). If you mix things up, you will have to work out your compression ratio - cc the heads, measure your deck height and work out the combustion volume and ratio.

Which you should do anyway, even rebuilding a stock motor.

VW knew what they were doing when they designed your Type 4 engine. Keep it as stock as you can. Glad to see people are agreeing with me!