I'm stripping my floor pan so I can send it for blasting.. I have removed everything except for the transaxle etc which I am tackling now..
Question.. The handbrake lines running into both drums.. Do I need to remove the drum to disconnect these? The fixing hex nut on the drum is bigger than my biggest socket.. What size do I need to buy?
36mm, you can always take the nuts off at the handbrake and pull the two cables back out that way to keep moving along
Thanks.. Sounds easy.. bet its not.
Next question.. After I removed the pedal assembly, I looked through the holes into the tunnel and it has a reasonable build up of dry rust and dust matter.. Doesn't look too serious but I might as well clean it out to be safe.. It would be silly to spend all this money on a pristine body to marry ity back to a dodgy pan..
Should I be concerned with the rust in the tunnel and what is the best way to clear it?.. Will the blaster get in there?
No the blaster won't get in there. A bit of orange is okay but how much is there? Make sure the pan isn't 'thin' on the underside of the central tube and front outriggers by flipping it and belting with a big hammer/screwdriver etc BEFORE you spend $ on blasting! If all is okay, fishoil it after it's all painted etc
Pay your debts, CxxT
Mate.. I reckon I could scoop a fair bit up with a serving spoon! There is a heavy deposit in there.. But its not scaly.. Its just orange rusty dust etc.. I'm thinking 40 years of buildup..
The pan seems in good shape..
3rd question
If I pull the handbrake cables, fuel line etc out, how big a job is it to re-thread them..
Rob
I blasted the tunnel with compressed air and then fish oiled the crap out of it.. The rust deposit looked more like a 40 yr build up than an invasive rust issue.. I hope I'm right..
Anycase, pan fully stripped (except the selector rod running from the shifter to the transaxle.. I could see how to get that out)..
Shift rod comes out thorugh the removable (two bolts) plate in front bulkhead 😉
Pay your debts, CxxT
'cept it was rusty behind the guide and seemed bent so I didn't want to try and force it forward.. I guess no harm for it to sit there
VWCOOL wrote:Shift rod comes out thorugh the removable (two bolts) plate in front bulkhead 😉
pull out the shift rod,
replace the shift bush,
clean up the rod if rusty, which has a bend in some models.,
grease it as you put it back in through the new shift bush....
It will feel wonderful, and you wont need to worry about it for many years...
Thats great advice..
How do you get the bush out and refitted? There is bugger all room to get in there with fingers.. let alone tools.. I pushed the rod as far forward as I could until it stuck firm (i'm guessing where the bend in the rod and/or the rust section jammed into the bush.. I didn't want to force it..
Rob just pull the hand brake cables and gear selector rod out ( remove the coupling at the back as well )
You may be able to stand the pan upright and get in there with a gurnney to blast out the crud, allow to dry well and spray fish oil or inhibitor inside there
Thanks Dave.. I'll have another go when the pan comes back from the sandblaster..
I did remove the cables etc and the rear coupling.. That rod is a bitch to get out so I'm thinking it will be a bitch to get back in.. Maybe when the pan is back, I could get you to visit?
yeah no probs use some degreaser inside the tunnel as well b4 u water blast it make sure all the openings are open to allow the water to get out
Rod should slide forward and out easy-as. If it is rusty it will bind on the bush (just behind gearshift location) but you will be replacing that anyway - $15 (yeah, not cheap for a crappy piece of plastic!) from Tooleys or VVWS
[ Edited on 17-1-2007 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
OK. can force it out as I don't have to worry about the bush.. But you reckon that bush is easy to refit? I have no idea as I haven't tried it but its in a bitch of a spot.. How the f&#k do you get in there to work?
VWCOOL wrote:Rod should slide forward and out easy-as. If it is rusty it will bind on the bush (just behind gearshift location) but you will be replacing that anyway - $15 (yeah, not cheap for a crappy piece of plastic!) from Tooleys or VVWS
[ Edited on 17-1-2007 by VWCOOL ]
I've done a few (with body on and interior in) and I don't remember swearing too much.. but I have small hands
It will be easier for you with the rod out.:
Remove rod, remove bush, polish/de-rust rod, replace bush, grease rod and re-install :thumb
Pay your debts, CxxT
OK.. I'll try it when the pan is back..
VWCOOL wrote:I've done a few (with body on and interior in) and I don't remember swearing too much.. but I have small hands
It will be easier for you with the rod out.:
Remove rod, remove bush, polish/de-rust rod, replace bush, grease rod and re-install :thumb
Just as a footnote: The media blaster rang me today.. The pan had come up so clean that they felt they could zinc coat and powder coat it for me.. Hooray!!.. Then rang back to say there were some small holes in the two front sections and did I want to get them repaired before coating.. YES!! I'll pick up and get the holes oxy welded over the weekend and back to them on Monday..
Total cost.. blasted, zinc and powder coated $700.00
UNREAL PRICE and the BEST Poeple to deal with...
Mr. Clean
Gow St, Padstow, NSW
See: Vanessa
The shift rod came out very easily.. Pair of needle pliers into the gear stick port and ease her toward the front bulkhead.. No problem... Just goes to show you never know till you try!! And the value of advice from AVD!!
