Hey Guys,
Im having a problem removing the castle nuts off the rear drum assembly on my Bug. This area has a fairly decent dirt build up and since cleaning it seems to me that these nuts havn't been removed for quite some time.
Any tricks to getting these off, and what tool do you use??
3/4 drive 36mm socket, and breaker bar with 2m of pipe on the end of it for leverage.
Ususally a rattle gun (good one) will get them off.
They are tightened to 250ftlb or more..
And have someone have their foot on the brake also.
This is my Volkswagen, there are many like it, but this one is mine. Without me my Volkswagen is useless, without my Volkswagen, I am useless.
61 Karmann Ghia 2110cc type1 w Los Panchito's
66 Deluxe Beetle 2270 type 4
10 Subaru WRX Impreza
Damn!
So the fact that I have the body off the pan and very little weight to keep the pan still won't help?
try getting a length of angle, drilling 2 holes in it to match 2 of the wheel studs. Bolt it to the drum and allow it to rest againts the ground to counter any lverage on the nut. Soak the nut with wd40 ro similar. also while using the breaker bar, hit the nut/socket with a hammer.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
BiX wrote:try getting a length of angle, drilling 2 holes in it to match 2 of the wheel studs. Bolt it to the drum and allow it to rest againts the ground to counter any lverage on the nut. Soak the nut with wd40 ro similar. also while using the breaker bar, hit the nut/socket with a hammer.
Ok sounds good...I'll try that.
Cheers
try hireing a electric rattel gun bloody great makes life easy
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
greedy53 wrote:try hireing a electric rattel gun bloody great makes life easy
reckon it'll get them off??
A large adjustable wrench with a couple of feet of 2 inch steel pipe over the end will enable you to stand on the pipe and apply your own weight! Works for me and I only weigh 90 kg!!
1963 6 volt Beetle - Driver
1976 Kombi Camper - Driver
1963 Beetle 6 volt - Project
1964 Beetle 12 volt - rustbucket for parts
1975 Kombi Shell - parts
I drive VW aircooled to save water AND I always shower with a friend!
Sulla wrote:A large adjustable wrench with a couple of feet of 2 inch steel pipe over the end will enable you to stand on the pipe and apply your own weight! Works for me and I only weigh 90 kg!!
I tried somethiing similar...but with the limited weight in the pan...it rolled away
😀Put some bricks on either side of each wheel!
:cussing
1963 6 volt Beetle - Driver
1976 Kombi Camper - Driver
1963 Beetle 6 volt - Project
1964 Beetle 12 volt - rustbucket for parts
1975 Kombi Shell - parts
I drive VW aircooled to save water AND I always shower with a friend!
just be real carefull if they are so tight u can barely move them.
when i first got my Lbug both nuts were really tight and after half a can off camels piss and lots of heat i got them off but they were obviously over tightened too buggery cos both sides stripped the thread off the axles and out of both nuts
luckily its IRS and i had some spares drive shafts but on a swinger would have meant engine and gearbox removal to fix
in that situation i would have been better off splitting the nuts off with a chisel and just replacing them instead of doin that anyway as well as fitting new drive shafts
would have saved alot of time and thrown tools/tantrums LOL
-Joel
Cold chisel and a hammer would be the go in this case. With out the wieght on the wheel its going to be a hard task getting these free. Just split the nuts between the castelations.
Use eye protection.
Grey 57 wrote:Cold chisel and a hammer would be the go in this case. With out the wieght on the wheel its going to be a hard task getting these free. Just split the nuts between the castelations.
Use eye protection.
You make it sound easy......
i use one of these, bought in the US years ago, but I think you can get one locally now.
loosens from or tightens to 270ftlb with a 3/8 ratchet and 30ftlb of force.
these are awesome. also work on the flywheel gland nut.
Maybe you could borrow one from someone?
Whats it called?
torquemeister I think. Few different names, but they are all the same. It was $40US when I got mine.
I may have to go and buy another as im doing a job here on a guys ghia, and all my tools are back in Melbourne. I dont think Ill get his drums off without it.
I guess ill have one for sale when I come home!
>after half a can off camels piss<
Sounds like XXXX. Did you drink it or put it on the stubborn nut!!??
DH
[ Edited on 22/1/2007 by 1500S ]
I have used a rattle gun on any of the axle nuts that I have undone recently (with the gearbox either in or out of the car) and it worked fine.
Please be careful if you choose to use the breaker bar and extension pipe and only use good quality sockets - I have seen a number of sockets break due to the load - one actually shattered taking a chunk out of my Dads face - not nice.
R 🙂
[ Edited on 22-1-2007 by ratty 63 ]
40hp, 6V and ...er... slowly making improvements
😂
It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice!
Founding member of the Gold Coast Dub Club Inc. 🙂ratty 63 wrote:I have used a rattle gun on any of the axle nuts that I have undone recently (with the gearbox either in or out of the car) and it worked fine.
Please be careful if you choose to use the breaker bar and extension pipe and only use good quality sockets - I have seen a number of sockets break due to the load - one actually shattered taking a chunk out of my Dads face - not nice.
R 🙂
[ Edited on 22-1-2007 by ratty 63 ]
Cheers for the advice mate. I'll look at the options you guys have thrown up and try a few things before taking the Cold chisel option :P
[ Edited on 22-1-2007 by Spellbound ]
