Has anyone fitted the West Coast metric rubers to their late type 3 doors? I tried over the weekend (also while off work) but think I must have missed something in the very basic concept of - old rubbers off, new rubbers on..... the damn things are massively thicker then the old ones and the doors need to be slammed shut from the outside (can't be done from inside so I climbed in the window) :o
The instruction on the rubbers said no modifications needed for late 3's.
So what did I do wrong? :alien and what glue have other folk used?
Thanks for any help.
'Ah, whatever................'
i dont think you have done anything wrong , thats how every set i have seen fits
which is why i have seen ppl pay well over $400 for a german set
" Australians against over accessorizing vw's "
A set I aquierd with Rocket and fitted when I built her still tight after five years.
Wolfsburg Automotive in Victoria have them made...
thas where I'll be getting My rubbers from...
Brazillian ones seem to compress OK...
but break or split easily..
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Penguin where did u get the rubbers from German rubbers are nearly impossible to find fora Type 3
Did u cean all the old crap out of the grooves use a wedge made from a bit of wood to push the rubber into place
yeh the new ones that we put on mine were much thicker too.
the door stays shut tho 😀
MOB: 0423890217
I aquired a new set of rubbers with a wreck I bought a while ago.Am yet to be brave and try them.
my NOS german ones fit a treat Chris.
SORRY BOUT THAT!
I made the mistake of not removing the mold release on one door, but did on the drivers. That one is sticking fine, so obviously I need to whack myself in the head for not cleaning the passenger sides ones.
Stopped by Supercheap yesterday (was still off work) and got a much stronger adhesive, that seems to have done the job on the bits that refused to stick, ie: where the door flares out above the latch and on the rear bottom corner. Aside from that, its just the damn slamming of the door that is bugging me. But I climb in the passenger side and slide over now, the two days of leaving the door shut as long as possible have made it easier to shut, so I guess compression of the rubber is taking place. I guess I was just damn impatient.
The old rubbers came out fairly easily, the glue had long gone and they were falling out naturally. As for getting the new ones in, there wasn't any area that really needed too much persuasion. If I had to nominate a bad area, I would say under the door, but even there they went in okay.
I am only guessing that they were WCM, they were bloody expensive when I got them last year. They are the full set though, including that extra rectangular bit for around the hinge area and restraining(?) arm.
'Ah, whatever................'
Chris you shouldnt have to glue the rubbers in they sit in a groove if you push them into place using the timber wedge method
Okay, that makes sense except that possibly in an earlier run someone may have bent the flanges out to get new rubbers in. The car has been repainted from its original (there is two shades of moss green on the car - one inside and one outisde - and outside is darker!)
'Ah, whatever................'
how much are wcm door rubbers for a late 3 anyways? also, i need the rubbers for the engine lid/cover for my square. people in the backseat keep getting lightheaded after a couple of minutes.
1954 Beetle
1967 Type 3 Fastback
1968 Type 3 Fastback
1970 Porsche 911T
how much are wcm door rubbers for a late 3 anyways? also, i need the rubbers for the engine lid/cover for my square. people in the backseat keep getting lightheaded after a couple of minutes.
1954 Beetle
1967 Type 3 Fastback
1968 Type 3 Fastback
1970 Porsche 911T
