What is the best source for type 3 door rubber, I want something that dosen't look a jigsaw assembled by the visually impaired.
[ Edited on 13-6-2007 by mackaymanx ]
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[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]tssnq.com.au
A truly worthy organisation, would have been more PC if I said assembled by someone wearing a blindfold. That site would be good for the people who made the set of rubbers I received and returned the other day.
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"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]I would give your local VW shop a ring, they should be able to get some in but I don't know what sort of quality you will be looking at. The there is the SAMBA site, try the classifieds for NOS. ISP west have them and lastly There is the DDB who make an alternative which goes on the door and pinch welding is used on the door. however they don't seem to be sealed at the bottom. (Most people I know who have them say they are quite good)
ISP West and The DDB are American but do ship at reasonable prices and both seem to have very good quality parts
And they shall beat their swords into plowshares, for if you hit a man with a ploughshare, he'll know he's been hit
""" What is the best source for type 3 door rubber, I want something that dosen't look a jigsaw """
You will be LUCKY to get door rubbers for a Type 3 they come and go Vintage in sydney have some at the moment give eum a call 02-9789-1777
I just bought a pair from The Bus Stop. I havent fitted them yet but I am hoping they will go on easily. I got them at a good price too cause they aren't carrying Type 3 and Beetle stuff anymore. They have a sticker on them from VW Street Style and Power.
Ok, here is my Clark Rubber solution. I got some samples today and did some trail fitting. Here are the profiles I started with.
I ended up using A & B. "A" will be used along the front of the door and will be glued on, "B" is a pinchweld and goes over the original seal lip around the rest on the door. "B" is a Gemini boot seal '75-'85.
Here is "B" fitted to the door.
Here is the join at the front of the door, I just used some superglue (this is a trial fit)
This is a test fit by drawing a strip of paper through the door seal, showed contact around the door.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]I also investigated the ddb solution (
http://www.theddb.com/new/ ) using profile "D".
Here are some of the test fits
I think this would also work in conjunction with plain pinchweld over the old seal lip on the door.
[ Edited on 13-6-2007 by mackaymanx ]
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]They reckon the DDB solution will not leak.The downside is it looks like a dogs breakfast from the inside..Looks like you have it sorted now.What you did also looks neat.Well done.I'll do similar to the type 4 as no door seals are available for it🥲👍
tssnq.com.au
Just go to clark rubber and get some samples. This cost me just under $100. Was going to try the ddb way but this keeps water away from the door lock and check rod.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]I thought u didnt want a jig saw puzzle ???
Super glue will bond the rubber
The proper seals are available if you want them is that a Early pre 67 type 3 ??
Well ain't that the ducks nuts. I never would have thought about Clarke Rubber. I had an idea in my head for ages to check out Rare Spares but as usuall with me other things were always more important and I never had the time. See just waiting around for someone else to do the hard work works 🙂
I was wondering if you could show how you ended up routing the rubber on the front of the door. Are you driving this car at the moment (Roadtest the effectivness of the seal) I realy have to get my act together. I am sick of the rear hatch and drivers door rattling, the noise and the fumes.
Well done on the research
And they shall beat their swords into plowshares, for if you hit a man with a ploughshare, he'll know he's been hit
One visible join does not make a jigsaw puzzle. I did get some "proper" seals but I returned them because I was less than impressed with the quality for the price they were asking.Yes it's a '65 notch.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]the origional seal were made up with straight bits and corners they were suspost to look that way bt when fitted properly and in the right groove they were less noticable
the later Type 3 seals were even worse and had 2 locating plugs fitted on the front side on the seal near the mirror
electricmonk , I've not had the car long so it's still unregistered. I'm in the middle of brakes, acc cable/linkage problems, generator coils, 12 volt wiper conversion and door, boot, bonnet seals. So no road test in the near future. On the front of the door ('65 notch) there is a groove the og seal sits in, so I'll be using that (I haven't got that far yet)
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Well pull your finger out and get working so we can find out at your expence 😁 Just kidding. Hope it all goes well
PS: Just call me "monk" everyone else does 🙂
[ Edited on June 13th, 2007 by electricmonk ]
And they shall beat their swords into plowshares, for if you hit a man with a ploughshare, he'll know he's been hit
Just so happens a group were talking about this over the long weekend.
Head to Clark Rubbers and get the "B" rubber that mackaymanx used and you won't have a problem. Just hide the section where it joins together near the base of the door or underneath. Some super glue will do the trick.
You'll save a small fortune and it looks the same.
Looks good to me. I knew there was a reason that Holden Gemini's were produced.
- Adam
If you can't fix it with a hammer,
you have an electrical problem....
Good One. I was at Clark Rubber just last week and had a look at some of the door and seem rubbers they had there for my 67 fasty, didn't end up having the balls to take the punt and muck it up (as Clark Rubber are dearer than you would think).
I will definately try them next time, but I got the shitty Brazilians now and so I may as well use em.
PC
Great research... when I get a type 3 this information will be very valuable. thanks for sharing mate.
'We teach best what we most need to learn'
VW no more... sigh.... well, at least it's a cousin
I got mine from T3D not the cheapest but they fit straight on, theres some funny shapes in the door rubbers of a t3. dose any 1 know what rubber from CR would fit a square backs back lif up boot?
the orange car in the tinmans signature had the d rubber in the door and worked very well,it also tides up the door when you cut of all the original rubber holder,the door looks heaps better.
u can also close the door easier with these rubbers as aposed to new standard rubbers,they are usually to stif and hold you door open slightly and look like poo!
down sharon.
So whats the verdict? What works best and what is the best value?
Update
Had another look today and am not sure that the "B" section is sealing along the bottom of the door. I'm still happy with the top and back section but will endeavour to find a solution after I finish sorting out my brakes.
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
[IMG]https://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate2-18600.png[/IMG]Well the DDB kit doesn't have a seal along the bottom of the door either and they reckon it works ok.
Out of curiousity how much does the clark rubber cost?
mackaymanx wrote:Just go to clark rubber and get some samples. This cost me just under $100. Was going to try the ddb way but this keeps water away from the door lock and check rod.
tssnq.com.au
Oh.. missed that lol.
So $100 to cover both doors? Thats very reasonable..
Uhhmm.. i don't think it would take a full tank of fuel to drive out to clark rubber and buy them.. If it does for you maybe your car is running a little rich? :P
When i did the calculations it was atleast $140 for the DDB rubbers landed here. So i think $100 is pretty darn good!
Can we stick to the topic please......the last few "non relevant" posts have been deleted. Makaymanx has made an effort to offer an alternative and save several $$$ in the process. Further bickering will also be deleted. Lets keep it posetive.Thanks.
[ Edited on 26-6-07 by MickH ]
tssnq.com.au
I'm not going to recommend what I've done or the ddb method I also explored. I just wanted to share what I have done. I have spent less than $100 so far and could do this two and a half time over again and still have spent less than for the seals I sent back. I have the time and the inclination to have a go at doing this myself. If you get some information from this then that's good but I don't make any guarantees. If you want to argue about it that's good too, everybody is entitled to their opinion ( I'll just sit back and watch😎 )
[ Edited on 26-6-2007 by mackaymanx ]
Quote of the week
"Do I wish to send them to you again, nope, no interest can't be bothered really, to much hassle for little or no return."
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