Hello All,
I have a 1962 Beetle and it has very little rust.
I would like to keep it this way by rust proofing it (Just the floor and heater channels for now). I am looking for a fairly permanent solution.
Is there a way this can be done without removing the body from the floor?
Do you know of any tech articles on how to do this?
I have heard and read very good things about POR15 and I would like to use this if possible. I was hoping for a permanent solution as I have already sprayed my floor with fish oil (and it stunk).
Cheers,
John
I used a rust neutraliser (painted it on-killrust) and then I painted rustbullet over the whole inside of my van. I am guessing it will work for heater channels and what not.
Having already sprayed the fish oil will affect how well any paint (POR15 or other) will adhere unless you ensure adequate surface prep. If you can see any surface rust you are best off hitting it with a wire brush attachment in angle grinder (or drill - just takes longer) to take the surrounding paint and any flaking/loose surface rust off.
Then use a rust converter which is a liquid that neutralises the rust - it will not dry on painted surfaces though so only brush it on the actual rust. After the recommended time (on directions on the bottle) you can usually use a damp rag to remove the white chalky deposits, or generally give it a good clean. THEN you can paint over it using kill rust, rust bullet, por15, two pack or whatever you wish.
That is for easily accessible areas like inside and under floor pan. In terms of heater channels you can only really use either fishoil, or I use a wax (don't know proper name) that you spray in the nooks and crannys (including through any access holes you can find (eg. heater outlets) - I think you can get it in aerosol cans, but I use a compressor with an attachment that has a clear plastic hose you shove into the tube of wax (hard to explain). Hopefully you get the idea.
Alan
POR 15 works very well but only when the surface is properly prepared. It has to be totally CLEAN. Even fingerprints will prevent POR from sticking. Would be very hard to get the prep good enough for it.
If using rust convertors don't use a phosphoric acid based one anywhere that you can't neutralize it. If it gets into seams and joins it will remain corrosive and ultimately create problems. Use one of the "ferric tannate" products like Fertan or ferronite which don't need neutralising. They can be used around seams and in hidden compartments without problems.
Thanks guys for all your advice.
I will be doing this next month and post progress pictures.
Cheers,
John
