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Rims / Wheel Studs rehatch

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Iwish4aSynchro Wolfsburg Wizard

639 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#612377
Here is a question that i am as of yet still pondering.

Note pics supplied in relation are from the UK BrickYard site.
Rims
http://img236.imageshack.us/my.php?image=wheels2qk0.jpg
Original wheel studs/bolts
http://img366.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vw222id9.jpg


I have purchased the same rims so, yes i know longer rear wheel studs and i am going down the road of conversion studs for front.
Dont suposse anyone can give me a definitive length needed as there are many options from US ebay?

Question?
On a stock T3 steel rim the stud/bolt hole is something like 17mm across? Where the stud pokes through the rim(clarity).

So should i be redrilling these particular Merc rim stud/bolt holes out 14mm; Will it be enough or should i go larger?

As for spacers i really dont think they necessitate spacers Merc offsett is 42, but if spacers are indeed favoured by the majority how large a spacer; 3mm?

Cheers
Roo

[ Edited on 20-9-2007 by Iwish4aSynchro ]
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...

It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose

pod i`ve got to finish this thing one day

4,980 posts · joined Dec 2003 ·

#612394
when i had 14" merc rims on my T3 i drilled the bushes out to 14 mmthen fitted longer studs on the front and the rear i removed the bushes and used a mag wheel nut with a longer shank and tapered washers front and rear to suit, i still have the rims and the studs and bolts but alas not the T3..
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Iwish4aSynchro Wolfsburg Wizard

639 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#612495
So are u getting rid of the un-used parts?
Still i suppose there is a good chance that the merc rims in question have a thicker rim hub.
Will check tomorrow.
14mm is good then?
Studs front and rear; sound like a prick of a job?
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...

It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose

Iwish4aSynchro Wolfsburg Wizard

639 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#613048
As for the studs.
OEM studs have about15-18mm of thread so as to screw nut onto. So i guess that is the minimum thread allowable so as to "safely" screw nut on.
Also bolt is 14x1.5 thread pitch. important.
I am unsure about that myself details.
Nut seat of rim is 30mm in depth, Rim face 2 Nut seat.
Total rim depth is 60mm, where it meets the hub to the face of the rim
and so theres
30mm + 5mm(spacer?) + then the unobvious how much stud sticks out of rear brake drum.
I am researching for the past three nights.

Shit i think i have it worked out.
30mm stud/bolt hole depth + 3-5mm for spacer + 18 - 25mm for nut to screw onto.
total bolt/stud length is 51 - 53mm.
Wooh Hoo.

Everything depends on the depth of seated position of nut and then spacer if needed, must corrrect offset to something similiar to that of factory VW and then what type nuts you are using be they capped or something like the standard nuts so the thread is able to be screwed through the nut.

Someone correct me if i am wrong. Otherwise i am spending money that i cant afford......:thumb

Question now.
I there any difference in removing the front wheel nut intakes to throw wheel studs in the front, or should i just go for conversion studs????

[ Edited on 20-9-2007 by Iwish4aSynchro ]

[ Edited on 20-9-2007 by Iwish4aSynchro ]
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...

It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose

Iwish4aSynchro Wolfsburg Wizard

639 posts · joined Aug 2006 ·

#613892
Can i use a Mag wheel nut with a shank insert and washer into the rim?
Know what i mean?
Or are the stock wheel studs still too small????
Are there any other post on here in relation to rims for a T3?
Keep the steering and the propulsion seperate . Still a Kombi...

It's all good, until it's bad, i suppose