I saw one of the auto shops recently advertise an aftermarket remote locking kit - just wondering if these can be fitted to a 1969 Beetle? Also I just picked up a rust free door from a superbug for the 69. It is identical on the outside and fits well on the 69 but on closer inspection is a little bit different on the inside. Does this matter?
Cheers Dave
What's different about the superbug door ??? I thought they were identical, but so long as the lock mechanism, window winder and door handle are the same you should be fine.
I used to have remote/central locking in my '70 bug when it was still a road car - connected it into the alarm system and it worked brilliantly for years.
The kit I used had two smallish sealed solenoid units with about 12 inch long actuator rods. The way I fitted it was to take off the exterior door handle, and then through the large hole you can see the locking mechanism in the door. One of the plates moves up and down visiblky when you lock/unlock the door - from memory it's the outermost 'C' shaped one. Without pulling anything else of it apart I just drilled a small hole through the lower part of that plate then ran the actuator rod through it down to the motor that was mounted in the very bottom of the door. Needed to fiddle around a bit with the exact vertical position of the motor etc., but once done it worked great.
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The chrome strip is in a different position between super & 1500 doors. There maybe differences inside but I'm not sure.
Steve
Might look further into the remoteness. Good tip about the chrome strip. Just getting ready for paint too!
Cheers
Dave
also look at how close the rod actually is to the inner door skin. thats what im trying to overcome at the moment with chaos
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
theres slight variation in window winder mounts in later doors but its only cosmetic
ive had my current remote keyless entry in my bug for 6 years now
originally i had to make up my own kit using commodore solenoids cos the only aftermarket kits on the market 8 years ago were alpine kits for $400+
but u can get them as cheap as $30 now
theyre very straight forward to install on 68 onwards beetles too
just mount in base of the door and the rod goes up and the piggyback joiner thing links it to the vw lock pull
I've been told that the 1500 beetles chrome strip is slightly higher or lower??
the later beetle doors - the arm rest just screwed on after the trim is fitted
on the early doors - the arm rest screws to the door trim..
the shape of the door under the door trim is very different on some beetles
but they all fit OK..
the later doors need a piece welded for the arm rest to if clip onto...
If You used late model screw on arm rests , You could use late doors on early [68-70] cars..
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
strips are lower on 1500s
they raised them when superbugs started
the arm rests u can mix and match abit
ive got 1500 arm rests in my Lbug cos there alot nicer looking
u can just rivet the holding tabs on, the indents where the spot welds go are already there
but the other way around doenst work quiet as well
my 73 convertable has a 71 door with the tab, and the screw type arm rest fitted
the tab has put a huge bulge in the door panel under the arm rest
oh yeah dave this is how i mounted my locking solenoids
might help as 69 doors are the same
the rod goes up and the piggy back joiner clamps over the vw locking rod
theres a round hole u can put a screw driver thro to do up the clamp screws
you dont have any problems with the rod rubbing too much against the inner door skin do you
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
i did in my 71 super which would be the same as chaos and it shit me big time
i tried bending, lengthing everything same problem so i put a 2" hole saw thro it problem solved
with the Lbug tho its not a problem cos 73 on doors have a huge cut out in that area
fair enough mat thanks for the answer im trying to work around it at this stage.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
yeah i hate putting unnecessary holes in cars too but id already hacked them up for speakers anyway so thought waht the hell
if u feel like being a contorsionist and have small enough hands u can slip the piggyback thing on sideways sameway as i have it on my lbug above and u get abit more clearance that way but it means u have to tighten the screws from inside the door cavity which is abit of mish
Has anyone used the cheap remote locking in their Beetle?
I was told that the VW locking system was too hard/tight for the cheap solenoids..
they weren't strong enough to do the job??
LEE
PS: I have a boot release solenoid that would do the job,
but it weighs a few kilos...
Very heavy.. Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
i got my kit from supercheap auto in 2002 for about $40 and its still working fine as was the same kit i fitted to my exs corolla
they have a fair bit of force behind them and handle vw locks easy as
Thanks for the info fellas. Supercheap had them the other day for $69.
Cheers
Dave
Where/how do you route the wires from the doors to the A pillar? any tips so thers not just a bundle of wires in the door jamb?
Cheers
Brendan
Calling all NSW Mid North Coast Veedubbers
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im planning to run mine through a piece of tube towards the top of the door frame
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me
I put My speaker wires in some black PVC hose
and attached the hose under the bonnet
so the hose goes into the door [thru a rubber grommet]
and comes back out when the door is open...
I'll have to take a pic
Lee
http://community.webshots.com/user/vw68autobug- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
A tip regarding installing central door locks. When feeding the wires thru the pillar and door its best to sleeve all the wires thru one length of heat shrink.
I fed my speaker wires and door lock activation wires in one bundle thru some heat shrink.
If you do it right and allow enough slip between the gromit (fitted to both the door jam and door skin) and wire loom then when you open and shut the door everything will slide in and out either the pillar or door when opening and closing, eliminating the wires bending ultimately damaging them.
I've just fitted central door locking to my 71 and its so much better than stuffing around with the key all the time not to mention the lack of wear and tear it reduces.
Most good alarm systems will incorporate a feed to activate central door locks and the brand "Fusion" actually have all the relays etc inbuilt so all you need is the actual solenoids, no control module.
Cheers
Proud Owner of a 1971 VW Superbug and a 1916 powered Trike 👍
has anyone fitted central locking to an earlier bug?? got a 66 and is bit more complicated than the later bugs, as pictured in this thread.
I placed My speaker wires some PVC pipe and silasticed them on one end so the pipe just goes in and out of the two grommets..
For central locking wires I either drill another hole or make those larger for more wires...
Lee
PS: 68 doors have large holes on the inside side
but later doors have two or three small holes... Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
