Need to put a oil temp guage on my type 1 1600.
Where's the sender go? and what range is apropriate for the gauge?
I've seen dipstick hole senders, but they look pretty hokey.
If I use a tee peice where the oil pressure sender screws in, It looks like it won't be too accurate (it's a dead end with no real flow)
Are the sump plug mounted senders okay?
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
lots of ppl including myself have all tried the sump plug location and agree its crap
doesnt give an accurate reading and the sender hangs down were its asking to be clobbered by something
a few ppl have used the oil reliefe valve plugs but this has a similiar problem of reading low due to lack of flow over the sender
best location as Lee said is the dipstick sender followed by the type 3 filler mount if u have one or tapped into the case there but that requires engine dissasembly
safe range is between 90-100
105 is getting warm
110 is starting to get dangerously hot
okay, got the gaugee and it came with a sender.
Several people have recomended I drill and tap the block to fit it. Now I just need to find out where exactly.
Only drill it with your engine FULL of oil. That way the flow of oil coming out will flush any ally chips out. Then use plenty of grease on the tap to stick the ally chips to the tap. You need to remove and clean this every turn or so and regrease.
Oh and IMO the dipstick senders are crap. Drill and tap is THE way to go.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
ive seen them running that in a kombi but getting abit warm in a bug/type3
all depends on where the senders mounted to tho
sump plate were most are always reads low
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
just normal running temps...........its just nobody ever measures them on a standard car so they dont know.
another good place to locate the temp sender is in the oil relief plug.........just drill and tap, easier than in the case if the motor has been built.
like whats been said before, different locations will give different readings.
yes would you believe i actually got that new old stock for $10 a couple of years ago
Craig, have you tried out the releife valve plug? hows it wells it work?
its a good spot cos theres not tapping and its nice and protected but ive seen ppl whinging on the samba its no good cos oil doesnt flow over it only what bleeds passed the oil piston?
So, this oil relief plug I can just whip out, tap and refit with no complications? what's on the other side of it? anything that'll be bothered by the sender sticking into it?
68AutoBugBeetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --
none of the original 1500 motors that were in bugs had the type 3 filler plate
its only actual type3 engines and replacement universal cases that do
type3 1500s were abit different, they had higher compression than beetle engines and had no mount for the oil pressure sender in the case
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
DUB74L wrote:Craig, have you tried out the releife valve plug? hows it wells it work?
Will let you know in a week or two.................the photo is of my new motor for the ragtop and I thought i would try the temp sender in this spot. I also have one in the case as well as one in the sump, just to compare readings !
Currently have my boot lid shut on a 1916 and the readings seem to be accurate as they represent how im driving (highway, or suburbs). In saying that i have a VDO dipstick sender and was hoping to compare. Though if Craig is doing the research, maybe i wont bother 😂
so what is most important - the peak temp the oil sees during any aspect of its circulation/operation, or the temp it is at when it is delivered to the bearings? That might influence where the sender is located...?
I was abit worried about temps with my mild 1916 and bought a remote oil cooler to try and cool thing down. I then got a digital temp gauge and shoved a thermocouple down the dipstick. To my surprise I never exceeded 98C on a 35 degree day after a fine flogging! Lesson here was that the gauge was not calibrated for the range I was working in. ( mine was not graduated with actual numbers!)
Note I talked to Mobil and Shell about engine oils and they indicated that all oils absorb moisture if not n a sealed system whch a car is not. Furthermore all modern oils are not designed to start working properly until they get to about 120c... They need to boil off the moisture first...
water cooled cars dont even run oil coolers and shed all their heat thro the water in the radiator
and u shouldnt run ur vw on garden variety mainstream oil anyway
