in the next month or so im in the process of soughting out my 1916 gear, or 1914 as yanks call it?
i think i willb getting most parts from the states, maybe from the cip1 site.
im looking for a engine that will c the track and also as a second daily driver fun car. im hoping to be able to have 100bhp possibly more.ive spoke to stan and a few other guys for advise and have a guy to build it for me.
all machine work will be sent to pobjoy and hopefuly the heads will be getting the twin plug traetment asswell.
Would agree with Damo, check out Stan Pobjoy.
He does some great work all with warrenty.
Rod penrose has some turnkey motors for sale from time to time. Worth giving him a call too.
Tip,
Heads Carbs Cam Exhaust.
Most important things, in that order.
Good luck with your motor and keep us informed.
yeah i had a chat to stan but his steroid engine is out of my price range. and i want something a bit more then his base engine as he doesnt buid something in between .
jake raby from states has some un essembled type 1 longbottom kits with good stuff and good price that i was looking at. just waiting for reply email.
arent second hand original carbs hard to get, thats why i was looking at cb's site.
call rod penrose. he has all the good stuff at incredible prices and has done all the shipping for you. that and the labour to have rod build it would be less than what it would cost you to have machining etc done....
nick
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
Re Stan
Do yourself a favour and compare his prices for machining parts and assembly/labour rates with others and you may surprise yourself.
Even if you use someone else to build it, at least get Stan to machine the cases, heads etc. You will be amazed at how many VW businesses already use Stans machining services and they don't tell you.
hey craig do u have one of stans base 1916's with twin plugs?
ive been in a ride in the old base about 7 years ago. if so do u think the base is suitable to thrash around a track . have u ever had it dynoed. 80bhp??
cheers guys.
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
I had a base in the ragtop that wasn't twin plugged...........I upgraded the ragtops motor to twin plugs about 3 months ago, but I also upraded to a counterweighted crank, more potent cam, eliminator heads, and webers 😂
I raced a base in 94 and 95 at supersprints and hillclimb and it went well, although with quicker cars on the track these days you would probably want a tad more power (This motor is now in Corrine's from Vintage VW fathers car) 👍
whatever specs i use 4 my engine ive already talked to stan , and yes the heads and case will be sent to him.
and yes i do want something quiker then his base, thats why i have those specs above so u guys can tel mel what u think. what should be changed and how much hp to expect.
thanks, throw some more info my way boys..
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
well you probably won't need "H beams" or "light weight lifters" or "chromoly pushrods" or "straight cuts".
My motor produces a reliable 138hp atw with vw conrods,vw lifters, vw pushrods, and vw cam gears......so I don't see the need for these parts in a 100hp motor......I'm sure others will disagree.
Like Colin said, get some good heads.............maybe 42 x 37.5 valve size.....and Damien has had good results from the cam he suggested
Also make sure everything is dynamically balanced.
Hey Chris, i've got the base pobjoy with twin plugs - im in Sydney, where are you?
Happy to take you for a hoon if you want.
According to Stan, the base with twin plugs is the in-between from base to steriods.
When i bought my car as an unfinished project it came with a 1916 that had been machined by Stan but assembled by another bloke. It had never been started and looked a little suss (silicone all over the rocket covers etc) and others who saw it felt the same. So i sent it to stan to get it re-assembled and twin plugged - Stan said i would of severely damaged it if i had started it.
It may be worth the warranty - my plan is to start with the base and move on to setriods in a few years. I plan to get another VW and stick the base in that, but i think its fair to say that the pobjoys have good re-sale value.
Chris looking at the specs, that seems a pretty big cam, but then you do have smaller heads. have a look at my dyno chart in the racing section. wedge ports with engle 120 and 1.25 rockers. It really comes on at 3k and jsut keeps pulling up the cut out at 7200rpm. In hindsight a slightly smaller heads may have been a better option, as the heads slow so well for a 2L or less motor.
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!
ill keep researching, all the infos been great. this 1916 topic is always a hot topic ay. keep it coming. going to ring penrose and have a chat aswell.
i think the 40 & 35mm valves are an odd couple..........
yes Craig
will he be able to use stock pushrods with the ratio rockers tho?
until you are chasing the last "poofteenth" of performance are the twin plugs worth the outlay too? .......
i think to build this, "bolt in", with new parts through out, start working on five figures for the price (DON"T FORGET THE LITTLE BITS IN BETWEEN🤪 that really add up, and also the freight -especially to Perth).........and yes, then you will see the value in the turn key engines on offer in our own country.
Craig Torrens wrote:I had a base in the ragtop that wasn't twin plugged...........I upgraded the ragtops motor to twin plugs about 3 months ago, but I also upraded to a counterweighted crank, more potent cam, eliminator heads, and webers 😂
did you compile comparison dyno sheets for us to see Craig?
Craig Torrens6 times Australian, 7 times State Hillclimb Class Champion
