Hi all,
Its been happening for a while now, just hvnt botherd to post anything up..
In 3rd and 4th, when my car is at a cerin RPM or Speed, the gearbox gets very "Bouncy" and starts to shake the whole car, the gear stick flops around all over the place and it makes the car feel like its going over alot of bumps (even on flat surface).
So, my theory is, its either Gearbox Mounts are going, Enginemounts are somehow broken and are causing alot of feedback to the gearbox, or my actual gearbox is buggerd and ill need a new one..
What do you, the knowledge of AVD think?
Cheers!
NuZo
rekon its bowden tube?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
bajachris88 wrote:rekon its bowden tube?
no
Sure it's gearbox, not engine running rough?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Maybe a loose No 1 main bearing thumping in the case,do you have an oil leak in this area?
i DO have an oil leak!!!!
but i was told by the local mech(not my usualy vw mech) that it was either a cracked head or a rear main bearing. they're pretty different things..
i didnt kno that a loose bearing could cause this problem.
now that i think of it, should i even be driving the car? that sounds pretty bad if its flying around in the case!!
but keep in mind its only at a set RPM or speed. and doesnt happen in 1st or 2nd, and barely in 3rd.
Keep the info comming guys!
Cheers for the quick replies also!!
😀
NuZo, you display quite a few problems....your car needs a good workover....
with the symptoms like you've described, you need to start eliminate possible problems from the bottom....not from the top...
are your wheels balanced ? do you use any kind of offset bracket for your engine lid ? did you check the state of your shift rod bushes?... front gearbox mount?......and we can go for ever...it is really complex matter to find out...
axial clearance on your crank?....many more things come to the mind...
I'm not trying to jump in at the deep end, but a vibration /heavy thump at certain revs is often mistaken for a gearbox problem.But eliminate the easy ones first. cheers
I absolutely do not dispute that fact, but I've learned to start looking for really basic problems...you may work your way up.... to bearing No 1....
lol yerp, his been good to me, but in the last 6 months, so many little things that just annoy me!
Hopefuly soonish a new engine will be in the picture, then gearbox then everything else.
suspension wise, i only just had the shocks replaced.
im not too fussed if this engine dies, but i would like the gearbox to last a little longer.
The problems u guys say with #1 bearing sounds like the exact problem im having. problem is, i wouldnt be able to open up my engine. so im guessing my mech would have to do it.
Any ideas how much it would cost? also, is the car still ok to drive? or should i park it in the garage untill i get it fixed!
Its a pitty that all these problems happen now, but to think about it, its lasted 40 years without even a hickup! so its fair enough.
as far as wheel balancing, yes afaik they have been, there is no offset bracket for my engine lid, i have no idea the state of my shift rod brushes, or the front gearbox mount. ill find out asap 😀
cb john wrote:do you use any kind of offset bracket for your engine lid ?
Sorry, But what has that got to do with anything???
yeah i was wondering that too, but i dont kno as much as some of the ppl on here, so i answered without questioning 😀
colonel mustard wrote:cb john wrote:do you use any kind of offset bracket for your engine lid ?
Sorry, But what has that got to do with anything???
In some cases a lot...the same symptoms as NuZo's caused by using the stand off bkts....
like vibrations causing extra wear and tear?
if it dosn't happen at idel thats a start ,are the wheels balenced cheap check ,are the tyers at correct pressure,are all spark leads ok check dissy cap cracks try a spare cap,when were the plugs replaced when was the points gaped to correct gap,when was the oil last changed,are the rear hub nuts at correct tension like as tight as you can get them with a lonnnng bar,thats just the obvous
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
descriptions abit vague but id be suss of a loose flywheel or pounded out main bearing
had the same thing happen to my 1500 little wobble in 3rd and wham i thought i had thrown a wheel off at the right spot in 4th turned out to be a loose/worn/old/bent dizzy clamp and only at the right rpm and load would it do it. what was happerning was i would set my timing and on the way to work it would retard so on way home from work pulling up an on ramp perfect load and rpm and shazam. replaced the clamp and havent had a problem since.
1970 bug /1500 stock as a rock.
1976 standard bug ready to be modified 😁😁😁😁😁
as i need the car for work, if i dont have a car im going to have to organise something with my boss..
So... Just dbl cheking...
is it ok to drive? or should i park it and wait for the slow panel beater to finish my other car?
im doing 19.7km trips from Abbotsford to Dundas. with traffic.. TBH i have been driving it, and it hasnt really caused me any problems, its just an odd thing that i noticed and asked on here to see what it was!
Thank you all for your reply s 😀
If it's AT a certain ROAD speed (about 75-85k) it might be the steering damper (if any) worn out (or missing). This can dramatically shake the front, which might vibrate the gear stick. The shake may be totally absent below & above this speed.
Or if it's definitely from the rear of car, it could be a loose rear wheel nut (the centre 36mm one). May cause a harsh/noisy vibration that gets worse with speed, maybe from 80k and up, but is absent at lower speeds. Easy to check their tightness.
A third rear source could be a badly out of balance rear wheel. It can cause very noticeable harshness/vibration, increasing from a certain speed, but be imperceptible at low speed.
If vibration's from the engine, wouldn't it be harsh in every gear?
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
could b a number of things
to check gearbox mounts get a long screwdriver or small crow bar n get under neath n use it as a leaver if it moves the box then there buggared
could b a number of things
to check gearbox mounts get a long screwdriver or small crow bar n get under neath n use it as a leaver if it moves the box then there buggared
check these:
Front gearbox mount for loose bolts or damaged/perished/delaminated rubber.
The 'banana' mounts under bellhousing - same
Four engine bolts (that hold the engine to the gearbox)
Pay your debts, CxxT
as brutus said, its only at a a set speed/RPMS
iv notivced in 4th gear its around 1500-1800 @ around 60kmph RPMS
in 3rd gear its around 2000-2200. @ around 50kmph
to stop the vibrating i just blip the throttle and accelerate a little and it stops all forms of this "bouncing".
ill be taking my car in soon!! dont worry 😀
its not a flatspot/kangaroo hoppin at that such low rev?
although in 3rd and 4th most unlikely...
but not improbable. I been there and had that, a bad flat spot by a vaccuum lead at exactly 2100rpm from 1st to 4th (minus 5th)... of course intensity of the hop decreased with higher gear
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
I think everyone's covered every possibility...
Was bent axle mentioned?
Out-of-round tyre?
Missing/broken shocker?! I know - it shouldn't be so...
Another problem we've had in the past was a cracked fan centre that caused odd vibrations thjat came and went mysteriously.
ACE 30 & 40 oils: specifically engineered for your Air Cooled VW
delivered (free del.) throughout Yarra Valley / Ranges, & Gippsland areas. Also ACE 20, 50 & 90.
FOR SALE: ACE 30, 40 etc. Oil formulations & Trade-names.
just got my other beetle back, its a semi-auto, the clutch doesnt engage when the car is on.... and something is wrong with the fan, its making all sorts of weird noises!!
Sigh!! BUT!! atleast now the paintwork looks all beautiful
NuZo wrote:as brutus said, its only at a a set speed/RPMS
iv notivced in 4th gear its around 1500-1800 @ around 60kmph RPMS
in 3rd gear its around 2000-2200. @ around 50kmph
to stop the vibrating i just blip the throttle and accelerate a little and it stops all forms of this "bouncing".
ill be taking my car in soon!! dont worry 😀
From this description it sounds like front trans mount loose or broken, the engine/tans moves around pulling on the cable making all sorts of driving issues...when you declutch it gets under control by the clutch cable tension and off you go again. There's plenty of possibilities though.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Nuzo, where are you located?
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears. 👍
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta!
im located in innwer west sydney!!
just an update, today whilst in Avalon( a long way away from my house) my accelerator cable decided to break!!
i was lucky enof to get a fkn champ NRMA dude to patch it up as best he could!! and!! it got me all the way home!! what a bloody champion!!! i owe that man a beer!