Hi Guys
That doghouse shroud, does it bolt to any part of the engine to hold it in place. I mean just the doghouse itself, not all the other stuff that gets put on.
Thanks Trev
Hiya Trev,
Yep, it bolts to thecylinder tin on each side. If you look closely at a doghouse shroud you'll see the holes for the bolts (6mm/10mm head) toward the bottom of each side.
Mike
1970 AS Bug
1970 Bus - The Ruptured Duck
Have an AutoStick? Check out
www.auto-stick.comthe doghouse is part of the shroud...
You would also need the doghouse oil cooler..
and the sealing bracket [bob hoover bit] or You could seal the oil cooler with some thick foam... [which I did]
a cover goes over the oil cooler screwing into the rear of the fan shroud.. then another piece which directs the hot air OUT of the engine compartment is also screwed to the fan shroud..
so You also need the piece of tinware that goes across the rear or really the front of the engine over the gearbox...
If the temperature drops below 38 degrees I'll go and take some pics.. make that 30 degrees.. lol
cheers
LEE
PS: also need the wider fan..
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Buggar lol
So which do you install first, the cyl head tin. The workshop manual is useless and its been two years since I pulled it apart
Hi Mike,
I was a bit long winded writing My reply...
and checking the temperature.. lol
Have a great Christmas...
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
The doghouse itself is really part of the fan shroud, and the only thing that bolts directly to the engine is the cyl head tins.
Putting it all back together goes something like:
- Glue the foam onto the oil cooler
- Cyl head tins... two screws down into each head.
- Then fan shroud + genny/alt on top... one bolt/screw in at each side as Lee has said.
- Rear engine tin that seals engine bay from trans area... one screw each corner into the cyl head tin, plus some into lower tins (not sure how many)
- Air exit duct which runs from fan shroud out through rear tin... some I've seen use a M6/10mm nut on a stud on the shroud, others use a bolt/screw into the fan shroud
- Cooler cover (trinagular shaped bit) which fits over the top of the exit duct and seals it up to the cooler.... one screw/bolt into the fan shroud
- Engine back into the car... then the fit front engine tin... the curved bit with heater duct holes, depending on exact tin setup usually 1 screw each corner into cyl tin, then 2 each side through the cyl tin into the little deflector thingys, and 1 or 2 into the pulley tin
And that's about it... good luck !!!
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
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Can you guys draw a lin on this pic to show me where top put the foam.
Thanks
Ok guys
Here is where Im up to thanks to you guys
1. Is installed and so is the fan shroud.
2. Front tin , worked out how it goes and will bolt it in when engine is in.
3. Is this the lower front tin that fits behind the front pulley and bolts to the front tin (Think I should have put that on before I installed the pully)
4. Is this the rear tin, have no idea how it goes on.
5. Bolts to the rear of the shroud on the oil cooler exit
6 and 7. Do they bolt under the cyl head tin somehow and hold that rear tin work.
Hi
here is where I glued foam...
first cover surfaces with contact cement..
same with foam.... let touch dry...
then place them together...
You won't be able to take them off so align them correctly...lol
I used foam about 50mm thick and trimmed the foam..
I will show a pic of My oil cooler...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
you are definitly missing one piece that attaches to the bottom of number 5 and goes through the rectangle hole in number 4. this will complete the path for the hot air to exit the engine bay. Great paint job too.
Frosty
Yep got that, was still drying. Im still stuck with how 4 bolts on though.
Ok
Im nearly there but now Im really stumped
Hers a pic of the back part, but Im still buggerd as to how part number 4 fits on here. Any clues. as I presume the cutout in number 4 is for the black piece in this picture.
Ok, so part 4 is what I know as the rear tin.... the black part is the air exit... it's number 8 by your numbering I guess.
You have to put 4 on before 5 and 8.... the hole goes on the #3 cyl side of the engine, and the two tabs hold it onto the crank case. Then part 8 (the black part) goes through the hole and bolts to the shround, then part 5 goes on over the top of that.
Hope that helps...
VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI -
http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
Thanks Guys
Ive been a real idiot, was holding that rear tin flat instead of upright.
What an idiot,
Oh speaking of idiots, those two air deflectors that are supposed to go on the bottom of the cylinders, does it matter if they are on, frikken been painting them as I built the engine and now the heads and pushrod tubes are on and they wont go on lol.
Sorry to say , but yes they must go on and as you are already seeing , no you cannot fit them after the heads and stock pushrod tubes are fitted .
If you don't want to re remove your heads etc the only way they can be fitted is to destroy / remove the tin pushrod tubes ,fit the 2 under cylinder tins and then fit adjustable or spring loaded pushrod tubes .
The big downside to the above method is two piece pushrod tubes usually leak like the perverbial
Don't let body work get in the way of real suspension travel
OZ Towdster wrote:two piece pushrod tubes usually leak like the perverbial
Except the really good ones, gold Scat or Jay Cee are fine, but yep, a real bummer, the deflecter plates MUST be fitted, and a further point, I don't recommend reusing the original pushrod tubes.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
You sort of can fit them afterwards - bit of a bodge though
Hammer the "clips" flat
Then drill a 6 mm?? hole in the centre. Put a really long (say 100mm - cant remember - maybe 150mm) 5mm bolt with a large washer through from top of the heads.
This will hold the plates in place.
There s also 2 pieces of tin that fit to the "rear" of piece 1
Sort of goes down to piece 7 and 6
You are also missing the 2nd half of piece 6
Futue te ipsum!!!
Here is a pic of the RHS rear tinware..
I took heaps of pics but none of those two pieces..
I have also assembled engine without the air deflector plates..
took them apart.. replaced the pushrod tube seals...
the pushrod tubes were new..
I just carefully stretched them about 15mm each end..
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
