I have been using my beetle 1500 every day since it was rego'd 2 weeks ago.I drive 45 k's to work and the same on the return journey. Of late the car has started coughing and won't idle when warm so i have raised the idle speed to counter this but it is getting worse, Last night it wouldn't idle at all even when i raised the idle speed to the max then this morning she fired and idled ( albeit fast ).
The carbie ( single ) was cleaned and tuned by the beetle specialist when I collected the car 2 weeks ago. I will be taking the car back but would appreciate any advice that would help make sure that the car makes it there to be looked at.
I am lovin' driving the old girl again although the restored seats are incredibly bouncy.
Cheers,
Scott
1970 - 1500 single port typ 1
Yarraville
put everything back where it was 6that you have played with,it will very likely a air leak ,first check the 13 mm nuts on each inlet manafold both sides than with a screw driver tighten the clamps on the rubbers on the cross tube .if all these don't help it will most likely be that t6he points need doing all of these things are really simple to do before you pay a mechanic,
a simple test is to get it going and spray morten or start you bastard around the same areas if it reves up there will be the leak
why i hear you ask well when it's cold things tend to be hard but warm things up
start to leak
good luck
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
Thanks for the advice.
The points were renewed as were the leads, plugs and dizzy cap, the carbie was stripped and cleaned and a new fuel filter was fitted so I won't be expecting to pay for getting the car seen to ! I have returned the idle screw back to where it was ( easy to find the clean area of thread ) so i will get a can of WD40 and attempt to set fire to the engine tomorrow.
Makes sense that metal expands when hot, it was the backfiring when decelerating that let me know before i stopped that all was not well, and with the brakes having been redone the pedal sits too high to heel and toe when cruising up to red lights which was my original plan.
I will report back when all is well.
Cheers,
Scott
1970 - 1500 single port typ 1
Yarraville
Usually WD40 will make it choke instead of rev if there is a leak. Still works, but the opposite way. Lower rpm not higher with WD.
When it backfires is it through the exhaust or carburator?
greedy53 wrote:put everything back where it was 6that you have played with,it will very likely a air leak ,first check the 13 mm nuts on each inlet manafold both sides than with a screw driver tighten the clamps on the rubbers on the cross tube .if all these don't help it will most likely be that t6he points need doing all of these things are really simple to do before you pay a mechanic,
a simple test is to get it going and spray morten or start you bastard around the same areas if it reves up there will be the leak
why i hear you ask well when it's cold things tend to be hard but warm things up
start to leak
good luck
He'd be looking for a long time to find the inlet manifold rubbers on a 1500 single port!
😉 I'm sure you knew that though.
pull the idle jet and make sure it hasnt got a piece of crud caught in the hole cos thats classic symptoms of a blocked idle jet
usually start up fine and idle ok when cold cos the suction of the autochoke
just testing if ya paying attention
oh and it won't catch fire
i only say look for inlet leaks because i had a friend on my door step blubbering like a kid as if could help,but chest out and the come along son i strolled out hoping that my bewildered look was not viable.
long story short the inlet manifold on the drivers side was not sealing and for some reason as this was the same manifold that came of the small dowel that locates the manifold didn't fit and was keeping it from sealing probably not your problem just showing how these things sneak up and bite you
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
i had something similar on my bug i had installed a new electric fuel pump and some shit must have gone through into the lines and i took out the jets to find that there was gunk blocking em.new filter drained the fuel line with the help of an air blower and now she purrrrrs like a lion 👍👍
good luck with yours dude
called out the RACV as the car wouldn't get me to the end of the road never mind the 50 K's to the workshop.
Off came the air filter and a hand over the top of hte carbie after full revs and a whole load of smoke came out of the exhaust and the car ran sweet as, turns out that there was some crap in the carbie that was blocking the mixture. I will have the carbie looked at today and hopefully cleaned out (again) as she is not running too smooth, lots of popping and an uneven idle when stuck in traffic on the ring road to hell.
1970 - 1500 single port typ 1
Yarraville
I had the same problem with my 1970 1500 Beetle.
Today I checked the spark gap. It had opened up a bit, so I set it aright. The timing was O. K. The plugs were O.K. I stripped and cleaned the carby and blew it out with some compressed air, but I forgot to clean out the electric idle jet thingy. It still ran rough and wouldn't idle. I removed and cleaned the idle jet gizmo and voila all was well.
It now idles well and runs acceptably.
scotlander wrote:I have been using my beetle 1500 every day since it was rego'd 2 weeks ago.I drive 45 k's to work and the same on the return journey. Of late the car has started coughing and won't idle when warm so i have raised the idle speed to counter this but it is getting worse, Last night it wouldn't idle at all even when i raised the idle speed to the max then this morning she fired and idled ( albeit fast ).
The carbie ( single ) was cleaned and tuned by the beetle specialist when I collected the car 2 weeks ago. I will be taking the car back but would appreciate any advice that would help make sure that the car makes it there to be looked at.
I am lovin' driving the old girl again although the restored seats are incredibly bouncy.
Cheers,
Scott
Hi
Automatic choke may need adjusting... on the carby..
Best to buy some manuals to show You how to adjust the carby etc Your self... some books are very good..
Most of the time, back firing etc means a leak in the inlet or exhaust manifold... VWs don't like leaks...
Your bowl on Your carby may be full of junk..??
best of Luck
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
scotlander wrote:called out the RACV as the car wouldn't get me to the end of the road never mind the 50 K's to the workshop.
Off came the air filter and a hand over the top of hte carbie after full revs and a whole load of smoke came out of the exhaust and the car ran sweet as, turns out that there was some crap in the carbie that was blocking the mixture. I will have the carbie looked at today and hopefully cleaned out (again) as she is not running too smooth, lots of popping and an uneven idle when stuck in traffic on the ring road to hell.
RACV guys don't know anything about beetles usually...
its usually better to do things Yourself rather than let a NON VW mechanic touch Your car.... IMHO..
Air Cooled VWs are just too old school for newer mechanics...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
check the point gap it may have closed if a new set were fitted when the job was done
some times there is a small lobe on new sets and may have worn down thus closing the points
👍👍😂🙅🥷😬🤓
