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Engine /Gearbox mounts

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Gazza265 Seriously Crusin Dubber

108 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#780910
Can anyone suggest an easy way to remove and replace the engine and the gearbox mounts without dropping the motor?
I am working away from home and don't have the facilities like I have in my garage at home..eg ..ramps, jacks and hoists etc.
I'm pretty much constrained by the fact that I'll be trying to do it in the base carpark at RAAF Richmond.
Any handy hints on what to look out for and any easy suggestions would be much appreciated.
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"

Cheers
Gazza

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#780915
the engine has to be removed to replace the rear mounts

u can do the front gearbox mount with out removing engine buts its extreamly hard to do if u aint done B4
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

Gazza265 Seriously Crusin Dubber

108 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#780918
I suppose that since it is only the front gearbox mount that is broken (I was just going to do the whole lot at once if I could) that tackiling it and leaving the engine mounts to a later date would be the go.
What is so hard about removing/replacing the front mount if I may ask?
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"

Cheers
Gazza

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 ·

#780921
the way it bolts up.
“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#780963
In a late model 3 bolter it doesnt quite come out when you unbolt it
A VW jack can force it back the required distance
Easier if it is on a hoist so you can get in under it

the 3 really big bolts get fouled
It just dont come far enough back (easily) to clear it

Futue te ipsum!!!

Gazza265 Seriously Crusin Dubber

108 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#780968
I think mine being a 69 model has a 2 bolt mount. Is it any easier to replace than the 3 bolt one?
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"

Cheers
Gazza

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#780990
Gazza265 wrote:Can anyone suggest an easy way to remove and replace the engine and the gearbox mounts without dropping the motor?
I am working away from home and don't have the facilities like I have in my garage at home..eg ..ramps, jacks and hoists etc.
I'm pretty much constrained by the fact that I'll be trying to do it in the base carpark at RAAF Richmond.
Any handy hints on what to look out for and any easy suggestions would be much appreciated.

Hi
You should have come to the VW nationals on Sunday..
someone would have been able to show You..

I've never had to replace a front gearbox mount....
but the engine/rear gearbox mounts are a pain..
as the engine needs to come out...

look for the best mounts You can find so You don't have to replace them for a long time...
maybe replace them with the good red ones...

Lee

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Gazza265 Seriously Crusin Dubber

108 posts · joined Aug 2009 ·

#781042
Hi Lee,

Funnily enough it was when my daughter was in the judging line at the VW Nationals that she had this problem arise...lol

She had her bug on display between the Manx/Beach Buggies and the 3 Herbie clones.

I'll take your advise though and try to find the highest quality mounts that I can.
Fixer upperer of daughter's '69 Bug "Oscar"

Cheers
Gazza

vw54 Administrator Always Waiting 4 Friday

16,723 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#781044
also while you have the engine out and replacing the mounts check the clutch, pressure plate and thrust race as it will save you another removal of the engine

you can also check things like oil cooler seals as there a buggar to change without the engine out

give it a good degrease a week or so before you do the job and fix the oil leaks as you see them
I read it on FACEBOOK so it must be true


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=91278&page=1#pid848630


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=63561&page=1#pid624099


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=4832&page=1#pid452603


http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=60650&page=1#pid574409

grumble Son of Jim - Creator of Good

2,672 posts · joined Jun 2008 ·

#781200
Gazza bite the bullet,pull the motor,let the front transmission mount ,clutch cable and the gearshift rod go,the box can then be manipulated rearwards enough to allow the new mount to be fitted.(even then it will be tight)The box has to come back a fair bit as the tongue fits into the chassis.If you don't have access to a floor jack and vehicle stands I suggest you get someone to do the job for you.The things vw54 mentions should be right as you did them recently.Tooley Imports at Hornsby have good quality german mountings available at a reasonable price,Good luck and cheers Les