VDO Gauges to install

alansvw Wolfsburg Wizard

426 posts · joined May 2005 · 24 Nov 2010, 9:41 am

#814097

I need some gauges connected ,oil temp, cylinder head and boost gauge. Anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney that knows what they are doing and does a good job ?

ryana89 Officially Full-On Dubber

315 posts · joined Sep 2009 · 24 Nov 2010, 7:49 pm

#814172

You already have the gauges and sender units?
Wiring them isn't hard, if they're electronic gauges then all you have is a Power (+) wire, Ground (-) wire and a Signal wire (s).

If you can cut wire and use a crimper you're set.

2.0slow 92 MK2

Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 · 24 Nov 2010, 8:40 pm

#814182

don't crimp 🥲 solder and heat shink 👍

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 24 Nov 2010, 8:47 pm

#814185

vlad01 wrote:don't crimp 🥲 solder and heat shink 👍

depends on your level of soldering. if your great solder, if not crimp. its not going to have that much effect.

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 24 Nov 2010, 11:54 pm

#814214

alansvw wrote:I need some gauges connected ,oil temp, cylinder head and boost gauge. Anyone recommend somewhere in Sydney that knows what they are doing and does a good job ?

Hi Alan,

post a pic of them front and rear on here...

and someone is sure to show You what to do...

cheers

LEE

if You are a a member of clubveedub in Sydney
someone should be able to help You do it... Lee

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- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

1303Steve Scirocco Rare

8,650 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Nov 2010, 12:04 am

#814216

Hi

If your going to crimp buy the correct ratcheting crimp tool, nothing wrong with connections made with them.

Steve

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Nov 2010, 4:17 pm

#814283

Yes,
the $4.99 or $6-99 crimping pliers are rubbish and don't do a good job... they are too thin..
You cannot crimp properly with them..
and You can tell when a crimp has been made with those cheapies....

You can get GOOD Crimping pliers that only crimp..
with a nice wide crimp.... EXCELLENT..

or the crimping pliers that also strip the plastic off the wires...
both these are sold at Dick Smiths... or JAYCAR

I was cutting a wire off with the crimp/stripping tool last week when one of My fingers managed to be in the stripper part

it chopped a piece out of My finger besides squashing it......
hurt like hell.... lol

Best to use with one hand ...😂😂😂

and keep Your eyes on the other hand... lol 😂😂❗

cheers

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

ryana89 Officially Full-On Dubber

315 posts · joined Sep 2009 · 25 Nov 2010, 9:44 pm

#814326

vlad01 wrote:don't crimp 🥲 solder and heat shink 👍

Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then🤓

Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)

2.0slow 92 MK2

Made in Germany, Assembled in Africa, 'Migrated' to Australia

SuperOwen Fahrvergnugen

868 posts · joined Jan 2009 · 25 Nov 2010, 9:59 pm

#814328

Those crimp terminals are fine if you use a decent ratcheting crimper like mentioned above. Should cost $50 dollars or thereabouts from jaycar etc. If done properly should be superior to a soldered connection, Just pay attention to how much jacket you strip back, part of the crimp should grab the jacket to bear the load and the other bit the copper.

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Nov 2010, 11:39 pm

#814338

ryana89 wrote:
vlad01 wrote:don't crimp 🥲 solder and heat shink 👍
Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then🤓

Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)

Well Guys...
I originally rewired My Beetle about 6 years ago...

and I was having problems with the female connectors coming off the male connectors... including the fuse box..
and the female connectors were copper, soldered and heatshrinked

I then found out a few months ago that the female copper bare connectors I was using didn't have anything to keep them on the males....
they were made to push into a plastic plug....
and had a bit to keep them in the plug..

So, I have fitted a new Non VW [push in fuse] FUSE BOX
and are now soldering the wires and using either plastic covered or bare crimp on connectors... which grip onto the male connectors.. so My problems are finally being fixed...

EXCELLENT..

I can now put things in the boot without turning My headlamps OFF... lol

cheers

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

alansvw Wolfsburg Wizard

426 posts · joined May 2005 · 26 Nov 2010, 12:16 am

#814344

I will go to my local Dick Smith and get the right gear. thanks for advise. If i still have any issues with connections I'd still like to know a good electrical shop I could use as backup... my local guy in St Ives is good but never does a clean job and seems to take a lot of shortcuts.

donn Wolfsburg Elder

3,515 posts · joined Nov 2005 · 26 Nov 2010, 4:10 am

#814348

alansvw wrote:I will go to my local Dick Smith and get the right gear. thanks for advise. If i still have any issues with connections I'd still like to know a good electrical shop I could use as backup... my local guy in St Ives is good but never does a clean job and seems to take a lot of shortcuts.

Then he obviously isn't "good"

I dream of a day when a chicken can cross a road without being asked for it's motive!

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 26 Nov 2010, 12:34 pm

#814390

there are some bad auto electricians...
and some good ones too...
they either know their job... and do a good job...
they also need to respect the car... and not go drilling holes everywhere.. or take shortcuts...

much better to do it Yourself... and do the job You want..

and label the wires ..
I use masking tape and write on it...

Many Beetles from 1968> have some dodgy wiring..
who does this and why...
I don't know....??

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

vlad01 Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber

4,270 posts · joined Jun 2010 · 27 Nov 2010, 8:33 am

#814476

ryana89 wrote:
vlad01 wrote:don't crimp 🥲 solder and heat shink 👍
Enlighten me on how to solder these suckers then🤓

Others than that, yes you are correct, solder and heatshrink.
I Crimp, solder and heatshrink when and where I can (obviously an exception above ^)

easy. very light touch of solder on cleaned tip of the soldering iron to aid heat transfer. place the tip in the spade end (not where the wire goes) presuming you all ready have the wire placed in, just let it heat until the solder will melt into the wire end when solder is shoved in. 0.7mm will take about half an inch to fill it. keep heat until the solder wicks properly and your done. oh and let it cool before you touch it as the terminal might fall off before the solder solidifies .

oh and this does work a lot better with the spades with insulation around only the crimp part. And if you still want it like that one in the pic but using the less insulated kind, then heat shrink it after. makes it easier, quicker and becomes insulated like the one pictured.

71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE