Insulated connectors or Non Insulated

Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 · 25 Jan 2011, 12:29 pm

#823092

I am looking at making my own wiring harness and was wondering if I should buy the insulated connectors or the non insulated connectors like factory. I will be putting heat shrink tube over either type no matter what.

I notice that the pliers required for insulated or non insulated are different and I have a few of the cheap insulated type pliers already, but dont mind buying the other style.

Which is the better finish/connector.

Thanks, Kev.

I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 25 Jan 2011, 2:27 pm

#823112

depends on which crimper you use.
the insulated ones with the proper ratcheting crimper are excellent. they are what we use at work and also what i have on my car.

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

ian.mezz I never said, I could write or spell

3,913 posts · joined Sep 2004 · 25 Jan 2011, 2:34 pm

#823114

As long as the wires look like a birds nest when you finish.
😂🤪😂 here some that I have done.
give me a call if you need a hand.

pliers http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/tools

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/tools

😂🤪😂🤪😂
car forums. where a lot of peoples good intentions end up taking a good old car off the road forever never ever to see the road again. 🥲

Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 · 25 Jan 2011, 2:43 pm

#823115

Ian, that looks like factory wiring so when can you come down and fix mine 🙅🙅🙅🙅🙅🙅🙅🙅🙅

Barls, I know you need the right crimper for the particular terminal. Just the difference in the way they crimp - the cheap insulated pliers I have basically just flatten the circle shape of terminal out but I thought the other type pushed down the centre of the circle and may be a stronger or better style of crimp.

Kev

I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

barls Administrator Causer of Chaos and Mayhem

9,473 posts · joined Jun 2004 · 25 Jan 2011, 2:50 pm

#823116

i cant comment on the non insulated as its been a bloody long time since i used them. i know that all mil spec gear is ether high precision soldered or insulated crimped using one of these
http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/959/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=terminals-popup-layout
i wouldnt use anything else. the cheap crimpers are just that they destroy the terminal when they crimp.
btw they are cheaper at bunnings, thats where i bought mine.

“We all pay for life with death, so everything in between should be free.” Bill Hicks
the chaos project - click me

zocstar Officially Full-On Dubber

279 posts · joined May 2010 · 25 Jan 2011, 6:05 pm

#823146

I'd go non insulated. I think it will look neater.

As far a crimping and security, if you use the right and quality tools they both will be fine.
One advantage on the non insulated is that you can also solder them for a "never have a problem finish".

Trust me I'm an auto electrician 😉

'69 Squareback

Paulc1964au Custom Title Time!

1,627 posts · joined Mar 2010 · 25 Jan 2011, 6:18 pm

#823148

Kev,

I would go with insulated lugs it reduces the risk of short circuits with adjacent terminals. In our industry railway signalling we wouldn't dream of using uninsulated crimp lugs however it is imperative you use the correct correct crimping tool

/url]Streetwise Aircooled Volkswagens
My 69 Bug

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 25 Jan 2011, 6:53 pm

#823155

Camo wrote:I am looking at making my own wiring harness and was wondering if I should buy the insulated connectors or the non insulated connectors like factory. I will be putting heat shrink tube over either type no matter what.

I notice that the pliers required for insulated or non insulated are different and I have a few of the cheap insulated type pliers already, but dont mind buying the other style.

Which is the better finish/connector.

Thanks, Kev.

Hi Kev
I have used the non insulated terminals and soldered the wires to the terminals and covered with heatshrink...
I did My whole car... with lots of extras...

and there are good crimp pliers at Dick Smiths ..
they do an excellent job...

You can buy really expensive ones that have a ratchet in them
they would be best....

NOW.... after soldering maybe 50 or more copper terminals and using heatshink.... I have found the terminals I used...
male-female.... do not click together... just push together and come apart very easily...

so, I have started again.....
I'm been using plastic covered connectors and soldering the wires first.... and crimping....
and when the male/females are clicked together..
they stay together... lol
and I have replaced My VW fusebox with push in fuses..

cheers Kev

Lee in 43C today.....

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Camo Custom Title Time!

1,936 posts · joined Oct 2007 · 25 Jan 2011, 9:07 pm

#823176

Thanks for the replies.

Paul, as I mentioned I am still going to use shrink tube over the connectors to avoid any accident shorts.

Zocstar, the soldering was also what I was thinking about doing with the non insulated for extra assurance.

Lee, what was wrong with the terminals you used that they come apart - were they cheap ones?

Cheers, Kev

I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!

Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.

helbus Administrator Mad fabricator, paint and body

7,386 posts · joined Sep 2002 · 25 Jan 2011, 9:24 pm

#823180

Have a look at the catalogue on this website. I go there to buy all my non insulated terminals, and put single blocks or more on them.

Crimped and soldered. OEM style terminals only.

http://jaydeeautocables.com.au/

EJ22 into Bay Microbus - Finished project build thread- click on this spot here for info

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 26 Jan 2011, 12:19 am

#823204

Camo wrote:Thanks for the replies.

Paul, as I mentioned I am still going to use shrink tube over the connectors to avoid any accident shorts.

Zocstar, the soldering was also what I was thinking about doing with the non insulated for extra assurance.

Lee, what was wrong with the terminals you used that they come apart - were they cheap ones?

Cheers, Kev

Hi Kev,
I bought them all from Dick Smiths and they weren't cheap..
and now it seems they were made for slipping into plastic plugs and sockets... and they locked into the socket...
but not into each other.....
they were not made for crimping either..
the wires were soldered onto them with two bits to push over the cable...
actually I had a big packet of utilux ones too....
I'm now using narva plastic covered crimp terminals...

In old VWs I like the white connector strips where You can put two or more wires into the strip and tighten the two grub screws....
these come in about strips of 10 ??
and in two sizes - small and large... maybe another size??
the larger ones are better to push the soldered wire ends into

I will have to take some pics for you Kev..

depends on what You like...

under My bonnet at the moment are about 50 +wires, individual fuses and circuit breakers as I haven't wired up My new fusebox yet .... as it is over the top of the hole where the original fusebox was... so if i blow a fuse I would need to take the back of the dash cover off....

I have seen where the fusebox is mounted on the dash cover
which was made from wood or metal and covered with vinyl.
looks very impressive and You cannot see any wires... lol...
only the fusebox.... I have a new fibreglass dash cover...

I ran a seperate wire for every item Kev... lol plus spares...
I used 7 core trailer wire - one of them inside the tunnel...

I ran two 6mm wires from the alternator to the battery and three to the dash... so, no low voltages there...

but heaps of wires.... lol
its Ok if You label each wire.... lol...

LEE

- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

clinker42 Officially Full-On Dubber

381 posts · joined Aug 2008 · 26 Jan 2011, 8:08 am

#823224

Dont crimp

Use un insulated terminals and heat shrink. Lee, you must be doing something wrong, I solder about 300 - 400 terminals a week and never have an issue. You only crimp if its a last resort, a crimp connection offers more resistance and doesnt have the longetivity.