mactaylor Custom Title Time!
1,005 posts · joined Aug 2007 ·
as it states any help and advice from racers is greatly apreciated!
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how to stiffen the front of BJ front end?
Aussie Dubbin Fahrvergnugen
895 posts · joined Jul 2008 ·
Run bars from the two beams to the firewall or base. Gusset the tower by welding a triangle in
1916baja Custom Title Time!
1,990 posts · joined Sep 2007 ·
What sort of application? If its off road and you want a lift and firmer suspension stick some coil overs on it.... or are you asking about strengthening?
mactaylor Custom Title Time!
1,005 posts · joined Aug 2007 ·
nah sorry spring rate dont want coil overs just yet will start with std front spring rate but may need to firm it up down the track!
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dangerous 23 Windows of Awesome
5,901 posts · joined Jan 2005 ·
SAW used to make stiffer leaves.
Matt B has a set in his bug if it still has the same beam.
Matt B has a set in his bug if it still has the same beam.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Sides Veteran Volks Folk
2,220 posts · joined May 2007 ·
I've got the SAW leaves that dangerous is talkin about in the front of Jezebel... supposedly make it 25% stiffer than stock (and yeah, it's pretty stiff).
Two other tricks I did at various times when she was as a street car:
- if you have adjusters, set each tube for slightly different heights to pre-load one spring pack a bit
- get a donor spring pack, and swap out the half width leaves (4 per tube) with full width ones (so you'd use two per tube).
A bit tough to explain in words, so maybe a pic will help (not necessarily the right number of leaves, or in the right spot in the pic... I think there's 7 all up... 😊)
Two other tricks I did at various times when she was as a street car:
- if you have adjusters, set each tube for slightly different heights to pre-load one spring pack a bit
- get a donor spring pack, and swap out the half width leaves (4 per tube) with full width ones (so you'd use two per tube).
A bit tough to explain in words, so maybe a pic will help (not necessarily the right number of leaves, or in the right spot in the pic... I think there's 7 all up... 😊)
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VWDCQ vice pres & web dude - vwdcqinc.org.au
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My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
Join a car club - get car peeps
My toys
'70 Hillclimb Bug 'Jezebel' w/- Haltech EFI - http://bit.ly/VwTNtQ
'60 KG Coupe - resto kinda started
01 New Beetle - gf's car, but I turn the spanners
oldtub356 Seriously Crusin Dubber
139 posts · joined Dec 2009 ·
A quick and dirty Chassis Stiffener: Bolt on a pair of Country Buggy front braces - you can "feel" the difference.
To stiffen the Front Springs: Extend the length of the Adjustable Centre Block, thus reducing the length of the Spring flex.
The length of the square (don't use a 'stepped' shape hole) broached hole should cover the full length of the new Block.
The new length depends upon how hard you want the spring rate. The standard length in the 356 is 27mm - I have welded x3 together (deep undercuts and machine the welds back to surface). Its advisable to do both springs.
Do expect to snap springs during heavy duty off-road or track use.
This works on a 356 as the Adjusting Block, is easily removable once the Bush and Needle Bearing is removed from one side.
More difficult with the VeeDub as usually you will be dealing with a welded in centre section, which can impede the replacing of the Centre
Adjusting Block, depending upon the tidiness of the weld/penetration. On newly manufactured front ends it should be more viable, depending upon the brand used.
To stiffen the Front Springs: Extend the length of the Adjustable Centre Block, thus reducing the length of the Spring flex.
The length of the square (don't use a 'stepped' shape hole) broached hole should cover the full length of the new Block.
The new length depends upon how hard you want the spring rate. The standard length in the 356 is 27mm - I have welded x3 together (deep undercuts and machine the welds back to surface). Its advisable to do both springs.
Do expect to snap springs during heavy duty off-road or track use.
This works on a 356 as the Adjusting Block, is easily removable once the Bush and Needle Bearing is removed from one side.
More difficult with the VeeDub as usually you will be dealing with a welded in centre section, which can impede the replacing of the Centre
Adjusting Block, depending upon the tidiness of the weld/penetration. On newly manufactured front ends it should be more viable, depending upon the brand used.
mactaylor Custom Title Time!
1,005 posts · joined Aug 2007 ·
good idea the movable pinch or locking point! and thanx to all for any ideas! and dave and dave!
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matberry Moderator Go hard or go home
8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 ·
Oh do I Dave 🙂, that makes me happy. That beam was taken out early on and I never knew. They will go great in my new application, as so far I have overpowered my suspension just tuning my carbs 😂😂😂dangerous wrote:SAW used to make stiffer leaves.
Matt B has a set in his bug if it still has the same beam.
The split leaf exchange for solid does make a difference too, and definately need the extra support for the beam IMO.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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