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Wire to the doors

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Jiffy Learner Dubber

18 posts · joined Jan 2011 ·

#838429
Hi Guys,
I've got an alarm and central locking that I'm planning to put in the bug.
As well as that, I was reading up on the electric window write-up in this forum and think it might be something I'd like to consider down the track.

Both of these mods will require passing wires from the body to inside the door, which is my question.

What is the best way of doing that? Modern cars have a considerable gap, but from what i can tell, there is only a very small gap between the body and closed door in the beetle. Does anyone know how big this gap is when the door is latched?

Some ideas I theoretically tossed up in my head were;
- A wire straight from one to the other with a big enough hole and grommit that allow is to slide as it closes.
- Some sort of conduit that could guide it as it slides
- Create a bit of a loop in the wire that will sit in the door gap (depending on it's size)
- A high/low entry/exit. Eg the wire comes out low on the body and enters high in the door. This makes the wire much longer in the door gap and will allow more movement without sliding.

Does anyone have any other good suggestions on how to achieve this without issues?

For reference, the central locking uses 5 core trailer wire, so it's quite thick.

Ampdub Officially Full-On Dubber

310 posts · joined May 2006 ·

#838436
I am in this conundrum myself and the things i have considered is the long wire, flat cable such as trailer cable and running a flat cable around the jams and make it look like an old style door check strap much like this http://www.eisparts.com/211841387.html

post up how you get on.

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#838437
It's only a small gap lucky to be 10mm so the door light switch works which makes it a real pain in the arse to run wires.

I've got central locking and power windows in mine, I ended up running the power window wiring out from under the door panel and across to under the kick panel carpet at the bottom so the door wasnt squashing it when it shut.

There's just too many thick wires to neatly run it through the pillars.

High entry and low exit like you mentioned with grommets in the pillars and doors works well, my central locking has been like that for nearly 12 years now.

I used to have a pair of splits in the doors as well which was even more wiring.

beetleboyjeff Custom Title Time!

1,790 posts · joined Feb 2009 ·

#838569
I attacked the problem on 2 fronts.

Firstly, I 'tapped' both the A pillar and the front of the door in with a hammer and a block of wood, to gain more room between these 2 panels. No one has ever noticed though.



I then got some hose (I think it is oil line) and gromets that fit on it tightly. I drilled holes in the A pillar to suit the gromets, and matching holes in the door which are big enough to allow the hose to slide easily. The gromets then hold the hose tightly in the A pillar, and slide in and out of the door frame, and the wires inside are protected.



The small hose is for the courtesy lights in the door, and has been there for years. The 2 larger hoses are for the remote central locking, and the electric windows. Has been in now for 5 years next week, and no problems.
From your ole' mate Jeff

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#838572
Jiffy wrote:Hi Guys,
I've got an alarm and central locking that I'm planning to put in the bug.
As well as that, I was reading up on the electric window write-up in this forum and think it might be something I'd like to consider down the track.

Both of these mods will require passing wires from the body to inside the door, which is my question.

What is the best way of doing that? Modern cars have a considerable gap, but from what i can tell, there is only a very small gap between the body and closed door in the beetle. Does anyone know how big this gap is when the door is latched?

Some ideas I theoretically tossed up in my head were;
- A wire straight from one to the other with a big enough hole and grommit that allow is to slide as it closes.
- Some sort of conduit that could guide it as it slides
- Create a bit of a loop in the wire that will sit in the door gap (depending on it's size)
- A high/low entry/exit. Eg the wire comes out low on the body and enters high in the door. This makes the wire much longer in the door gap and will allow more movement without sliding.

Does anyone have any other good suggestions on how to achieve this without issues?

For reference, the central locking uses 5 core trailer wire, so it's quite thick.

HI
You can get 7 core trailer wire also...
and use the extra two wires for speakers..

I driled a hole just below the door interior light switches
then as I only needed two wires for speakers I used a covered round two core wire and grommets in the body and doors..

the cable is attached in the body and and moves in and out of the door grommets... [slides with armorall]

Best to drill where Jeff has drilled...

down towards the bottom of the door as near the switch, the metal in the door is double thickness...

I have central locking switches to go in My doors and would like electric windows also..
if not too difficult... lol

so more holes to drill .. lol

You could run the 5 or 7 core cable in thru a round black oil hose like Jeff... mount the hose in the door jamb.. a pillar..
and allow it to go in and out of the door grommet...


Lee






- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---

Jiffy Learner Dubber

18 posts · joined Jan 2011 ·

#850181
Hi Guys,
Thanks for the advise. I decided to go the 5-core trailer wire with the high-low option.
So far, so good.

Here's the result;