had a bit of a search on here,where is the best place to get a true reading, in the sump,from the oil pump,to external cooler,or the oil light swich.
just want to know i am getting a true reading of temp,
cheers
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I reckon tapping into the case beside the strainer or the "rear" cap to the spring plunger thingy
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in my opinion it's good to know the temp of the oil after it has passed through the cooler, this way you can see if the cooler is doing it's job as the oil is going to the bearing's etc.
The sump plate itself and the oil pressure switch are the 2 worst areas you can put them.
Dipstick senders work well but for something more permanent Type3 filler area or relief valve plug work well.
I've also seen a few people tap them into the oil filter housing on full flowed setups.
Joel,
Why is the sump plate a bad spot (other than being exposed to speed humps etc).
Ta
Newt
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I've found the sump plate to read cold, maybe a dead area of oil circulation as the oil under the strainer sits in a no flow area.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
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i am thinking of running a external cooler,i have a tap in the sump area,i will try that one,for now it runs from one of them sandwitch plates in front of the oil filter,
sounds strange but this is a wbx 2.1 engine now air cooled,so i have oil lines from the sandwitch plate to the oil cooler dog house type,some how i want to add a external cooler,not sure how to run both,need a diagram,would i fit it near the box or run costly oil lines to the front with a cooler up there,need to drop engine temp a bid,
was told a stand off will help.
To follow the path: Look to the master, Follow the master, Walk with the master, Become the master
you can see the oil lines from the plate the filter is on,would like to relocate the filter plus add a cooler in the system,
i think i can buy a relocate kit ,but then will i lose the original cooler,need a diagram made to see where the lines would run in a circle,
cant be to hard,any ideas,
as you can see the filter is almost touching the pipe.
To follow the path: Look to the master, Follow the master, Walk with the master, Become the master
I hope you have sealed the tinware and replaced the engine tray seal since that photo above.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
old pics,but shows the oil lines etc while the rear is un bolted.
To follow the path: Look to the master, Follow the master, Walk with the master, Become the master
I have no oil cooler on the block in my 2054, i have mounted a oil cooler at the front of the car running through a thermostat, there is no pressure drop and the pressure runs at 60 PSI at 3000 RPM, 20 PSI per 1000 RPM, temp never exced's 190degree's F, i have the temp sender in the return line to the engine so i can see the oil temp going to the bearing's ect. this lets you see how efective the cooler is in the system.
Newt wrote:Joel,
Why is the sump plate a bad spot (other than being exposed to speed humps etc).
Ta
Newt
Like Matt said poor circulation and I would imagine road draft having a cooling affect on the sender and plate is the problem too.
I'm guessing that as I originally tried mine there and out on the open road when the engine got it hottest the temp gauge would only read 140f/60c but if i stopped and just idled around a car park or drivethru it would creep right up which is the time VW oil actually cools down.
I did try a candy thermometer in the dipstick as a comparison a few times and when the gauge said 130f/55c the thermometer said 180f/82c. thats a fair difference.
Several people have complained of the same problem.
I moved it to the type3 filler area after that, worked much more accurate.
I run my temp sensor off the sump........seems to work pretty well..as long as you use a good gague....fitting a full flow system,oil cooler and thermo fan dropped my temp by 30degrees...you can realy give it to it and it wont go over 100degrees with the thermo fan going....if you realy wanted to find the best place......fit a few sensors in different spots and then find a medium??...would be interesting to see the results.....bla....
vwo60 wrote:I have no oil cooler on the block in my 2054, i have mounted a oil cooler at the front of the car running through a thermostat, there is no pressure drop and the pressure runs at 60 PSI at 3000 RPM, 20 PSI per 1000 RPM, temp never exced's 190degree's F, i have the temp sender in the return line to the engine so i can see the oil temp going to the bearing's ect. this lets you see how efective the cooler is in the system.
what type of lines do you run to the front,and what fittings are you using,lines under the car,
this is what i was thinking just run one up front without the modded dog house type i have..
To follow the path: Look to the master, Follow the master, Walk with the master, Become the master
That's what i have, i ran 16MM thin wall hydraulic tube thru the car attached to the tunnel, at the front it comes out under the passenger foot rest and through the front fire wall, at the rear it come out above the torsion bar housing, i silver soldiered male JIC fitting's on each end, both tube's are bent in one piece and were it exit,s at each end they are protected by large rubber grommet's, all the hose's are stainless steel braided using speed flow fitting's, use a thermostat, this will keep the temp under control and help the oil to reach it's operating temp sooner,it is possible to run the oil to cool and will not get hot enough to get rid of the contaminate's.
I ended up tapping the back of my sump this should give me the oil temp at its hottest point, i.e after it has done its job.
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With the cooler up the front, I think the thermostat is a must, to keep the oil hot, but most importantly to provide a short path for oil to the bearings on startup. So mount the thermostat as close as possible to the engine.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
thanks guys,seems a good topic on testing ,i will see how it goes now i have a good tune,i used a heavier guage wire to the sender,plus moved the wire away from the extractors,
if i still get a high reading will run a front mount setup,
sounds like a plan.
To follow the path: Look to the master, Follow the master, Walk with the master, Become the master
Dubcty
Did you just drill and tap?
Was there enough case for that?
Cheers
Newt
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http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/2006/11/vw-normal-oil-temp.html
This is some good info,
but remember he is talking degrees F not C , so do some converting.
westi wrote:That's mad Alan.
Hmm, its a thought....
Oil temp was picked-off at the inlet to the oil pump, a suitable adaptor replacing the threaded plug found there. (Ed. Note: Only found on early crankcases.)
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