I've decided that i'll rebuild my own engine to get a bit more poke out of it for the track. It will remain a 1300 single port but will have a lumpier cam and some serious headwork. I hope it takes me only a couple of months to do over the evenings and weekends but we'll see!
Below is some pictures of the initial strip down, i've only gone this far at the moment as I don't yet have a suitable engine stand to work with so have just taken the heads off and am not too happy with the way some of them look, especially the cylinder 1 & 2 side which has some funny dents in the combustion chamber.
Not sure of the health of the motor now after the strip down but it would pull a good 115kph in third so do the math with 165R15 tyres and a stock third gear.
Enjoy, any comments appreciated as i'm delving into this head first with only the bently manuals and idiots guide to help!
BLACK oil drained - was filled up in Sept last year and has only been driven for 3 full days at wakefield on this tank
sander288 ·
clutch disc - will be replace with new one
Compensating spring and bilstein shock
Going to play with some longer bolts on the rod ends of the bar to try and get a little more camber and more load on the spring
Box, it was leaking after the last couple of run from between the box and engine at wakefield which is why I wanted to take the engine out. The clutch was also making noises when turning the car off
HappyDaze ·
I've got an engine stand that you can borrow, if you want. Also an old Swiss Army knife [could be handy when things get beyond you].😂 Just kidding - about the knife, that is.
waveman1500 ·
VW engines are so light that you don't need an engine stand. I've disassembled them perfectly comfortably on a workbench.
You won't really know what's going on with your heads until you've cleaned the carbon off. I use a wire brush on a Dremel tool.
matberry ·
Great way to go Shaun. I hope you enjoy the experience.
Once you get the engine back together, you'll know it intimately, which can only be a good thing.
Smiley ·
Looking forward to watching this build.
I'm particularly interested to see the headwork and how it is all done.
Smiley 😎
sander288 ·
Yeah should be a good build, it might take a little while but I hope to have it together by Sept at the latest (great last words...)
The heads i'm going to send out of house as I want a good job done on them, the rest of the engine though I will do.
Just in the process of cleaning (argh!!) what a mess, but when done should be good. Dremel tool sounds like a good idea, I just tried to get some off and it did not want to come!
Greg I'll definitely take you up on the engine stand! I'll come down on the weekend to pick it up?
Cheers
Shaun
Sides ·
Those dents in the #1 & 2 head... is it just me, or do they line up with the cleaner looking parts on the edge of the pistons for #1 and 2 ???
sander288 ·
Hi Dave,
I think your right they do line up with the pistons... I wonder if that been a recent problem?
Sides ·
Hmm.... the inside of combustion chambers and top of pistons looks oily that side too.
I'm just guessing here, but could it just be something got sucked in through your cleaner mesh and then munched up ???
grumble ·
Sides wrote:Hmm.... the inside of combustion chambers and top of pistons looks oily that side too.
I'm just guessing here, but could it just be something got sucked in through your cleaner mesh and then munched up ???
This used to be a common problem when the spark plug porcelains cracked and part of it dropped into the cylinder,the piston crushed it and then spat it out the exhaust.They make a hell of a noise whilst crushing the bits and sometimes it jammed the top ring.
sander288 ·
If that was the case it hasn't happened in my ownership speaking off oil Dave plug 2 was uber fouled with oil and carbon at Wakefield in may
Thinker ·
Just about finished a top end rebuild on my 1500 it all looks exactly the same condition as yours. I had the same indent and at closer inspection I believe it was only chunks of carbon.
Good luck with the build, don't stress it's easy just double check everything and if you are going to replace your adjusting screws with swivel feet be prepared for some extra work, not hard but sucks up a lot of time.
HappyDaze ·
Shaun, you can pick up the engine stand when you like - just call first. I was thinking about putting a time limit on the loan...........so that you don't take 'forever' to build your engine! 😂
hellbugged ·
ha ha great thinking there greg!
sander288 ·
Hi All,
I have a couple of questions in regards to 1300 parts.
1. Piston Rings - can I order and use 40hp piston rings for my 77mm pistons?
2. Piston and Cylinder Sets - can I use 40hp sets for a 1300?
2. Valves - Found new exhasut valves ok but can I use the intake valves off a fuel injected 1600 that are also 33mm? - found some US suppliers have them
3. Engine Case Studs - I have a later model Pict manifold which bolts to the case, where can I get a longer stud to replace the short one I have at the moment?
Finding it more difficult to find the parts for a 1300, as most suppliers seem to jump from 36hp, 40hp to 1500-1600, and skip out what can be used on a 1300!!
Cheers
Shaun
stagvee40 ·
by the looks of the combustion chambers it's been pinging..........(ingition to advanced)
Brian ·
OK 67 1300 engine
Get some one to flycut the heads , open them up to suit the 1600 pistons and barrels.
Set the compression to whatever you think is safe for the fuel octane that u will be using.
Run a very mild cam and lighten the flywheel.
85.5mm piston and barrels are cheap.
no need to open the case they will fit if it is a 67 F series case 😊
Craig Torrens ·
Shaun, I have brand new 1300 pistons with rings if you're interested.........just let me know via PM 😉
sander288 ·
Hey everyone,
been a bit slow on the motor! I've got the block down to where I can now split the case but...
As is often the case I've decided on getting the case bored out (1916) and buy some new heads....
I had a quote for $850 to rebuild my single ports which is hard to justify when street eliminators are available for $1100 and out flow a 044 and can be used with all the stock running gear. 👍
Anyone know which S/E are better Bugpack or CB? Considering the bugpack at the moment as I can get them with 40x35 valves.
I'll get the motor built to a longblock by Stan and then use my 34 pict and extractor until I save for some dual carbs and bigger pipes. 😀
btw this wasn't my idea; my mrs is sick of me being overtaken at the track and said she couldn't justify the money for the gain in power/speed 👍
Gracey ·
I didn't think that unported street eliminators flowed very well and they don't have the cooling of 044's.
I'd pick a CNC ported 044 like the mini wedge or something similar, but that's just my opinion.
cnfabo ·
the cnc street elims flow in the 190's i was told by cb's staff & they have good airspeed....but over $1300, no manifolds either....and darren krewnchuck "kroc" said the new castings are wicked.....
what about the cnc's los banditos or whatever thay are called....
hellbugged ·
So what are the plans aside from heads and bigger cc's?
Crank cam etc
Craig uses street eliminators from memory on both his good motors
sander288 ·
I looked at the prices according to CB @ $892, VWpart.net did have them for $1250 or so though so i'd have to check with CB.
My reasoning behind getting the street eliminators is having a head that is capable of coping with more performance in the future, I've read a few forums (including this one) about the street eliminators and it appears that the cooling issue is spin made up by competitors to CB and the like.
But I'd love to hear from people who have used them as I'd prefer the S/E over a 044 or 041 especially if I can get them for the price shown on CB's website! (don't forget the exchange rate at the moment)
Cheers
Shaun
sander288 ·
Hi Daimo,
plans for the crank are C/W VW crank, with VW rods & lightened flywheel
going with twin plug ignition straight up to avoid the hassle of machining later, so as far as the cam goes i'm not entirely sure as having the plugs I think changes how hot you can go... but it would be matched to VW rockers
initially as said I'd be sticking with the mod'd 34 pict and 1 3/8 header I have and then i'd probably save for some IDA's on short manifolds (looking at CSP) and a bigger zorst from maybe vintage speed
I've given up trying to stick to a cams rule book for historics as it jsut doesn't matter as alot of them cheat like buggery (seen and been told) so there isn't much point building to the rules if no-one else is. So i'm just building a motor that i've always wanted and will run it where and when I can; as i've done with the stock motor!
hellbugged ·
Sounds like an awesome plan!
Except the standard carb bit 🙁
sander288 ·
only until I get the IDAs!!!
the carb isn't standard either I got it off a 1600 vee so it's got a bigger jet and no hinderance to the flow from a choke etc... but yeah the engine will run out of puff by about 5k or sooner until it can breath better 👍
Gracey ·
Having twin plugs will allow you to go as hot as you like with the cam, however an FK89 and a 34 pict may be bit of a biach.
cnfabo ·
the street elims can handle more heat.....this is what i have been told.....if greg ward can drive from sydney to grafton,race, then drive home with high comp etc...then go figure.....im getting a set of custom street elims from kroc in canada as we speek.....🥷......
Craig Torrens ·
I have the Street Elim 2000's on my ragtop......temps run fine.
My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.
hellbugged ·
Craig Torrens wrote:My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.
ya shit stirrer 😘
cnfabo ·
Craig Torrens wrote:I have the Street Elim 2000's on my ragtop......temps run fine.
My cam is like a fk89 advanced 4 degs, and runs the same with 4 plugs as it does with the 8.
are you lifting as much as a fk89 with 1.1 rockers craig.....??
Craig Torrens ·
at the cam, yes.
I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.
cnfabo ·
Craig Torrens wrote:at the cam, yes.
I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.
its amazing how much hp pobjoy motors are making with 1.1 rocker cams....460 thou lift at the valve....the yanks would not believe its possible...😂
Craig Torrens ·
cnfabo wrote:
Craig Torrens wrote:at the cam, yes.
I now have 1.25's on the motor, so .520" total lift.
its amazing how much hp pobjoy motors are making with 1.1 rocker cams....460 thou lift at the valve....the yanks would not believe its possible...😂
my cam is not a 1.1 rocker cam.....and its not a pobjoy one either.
cnfabo ·
here is some info i found about the unported s/e"s .all from darren krewnchuck....
Hi, I can't find any numbers for out of the box S/E's
However from memory I can tell you that on the intakes at about .300" they will be around 130-135 CFM and at about .450" they will be around 160 CFM and they basically flatten right out after that. Thus indicating the need for bowl/chamber shaping and a really good valve job.
Without ruining the ports cross sectional area you can easily get 190CFM out of them.
Home > CB Performance Parts > Heads and Manifolds > CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore) Price: $1,264.99
Code: CB1543
Shipping Weight: 25.00 pounds
Quantity:
These heads were designed on the CB Performance SUPERFLOW SF-600 Flow Bench for Maximum Port Velocity and CFM with all New CNC Intake and Exhaust Ports.
I think i'll go for the unported ones until ive got some carbs that flow to bolt onto it.
Even so; those a pretty decent flow figures for an out of the box head and a big improvement over the single ports!! 🤓
hellbugged ·
sander288 wrote:I think i'll go for the unported ones until ive got some carbs that flow to bolt onto it.
Even so; those a pretty decent flow figures for an out of the box head and a big improvement over the single ports!! 🤓
get some quotes on how much it is to hand port some heads before you order........i'll lend you some carbs and an exhaust if that helps
sander288 ·
What do you think of my engine case as a base for an engine?
It's an F series case with smaller oil galleries... would it be over doing it expecting alot out of the engine by bolting on S/E's?
I've been meaning to get on the phone to stan but havn't had a chance this week (or the time...😂)
Gracey ·
cnfabo wrote:here is some info i found about the unported s/e"s .all from darren krewnchuck....
Hi, I can't find any numbers for out of the box S/E's
However from memory I can tell you that on the intakes at about .300" they will be around 130-135 CFM and at about .450" they will be around 160 CFM and they basically flatten right out after that. Thus indicating the need for bowl/chamber shaping and a really good valve job.
Without ruining the ports cross sectional area you can easily get 190CFM out of them.
Home > CB Performance Parts > Heads and Manifolds > CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore)
CB CNC Ported Street Eliminator Heads - 44 x 37 (94 bore) Price: $1,264.99
Code: CB1543
Shipping Weight: 25.00 pounds
Quantity:
These heads were designed on the CB Performance SUPERFLOW SF-600 Flow Bench for Maximum Port Velocity and CFM with all New CNC Intake and Exhaust Ports.
I know the S/E can handle plenty of heat, I've seen Greg Ward drive from Sydney to Brisbane and then race plenty of times, however the 044's have more cooling fins which in my opinion means they should be able to shed heat faster (cool better) then a S/E which in turn should be better for the life of the heads.
On top of that their better value then S/E as they come in several proven CNC formats.
However if you want the best then nothing beats JPM.
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:What do you think of my engine case as a base for an engine?
It's an F series case with smaller oil galleries... would it be over doing it expecting alot out of the engine by bolting on S/E's?
I've been meaning to get on the phone to stan but havn't had a chance this week (or the time...😂)
you wont be able to use it if you're going 1915
sander288 ·
Ok so i've since spoken to Stan and went over the options and it was basically go down the 1600 route or keep it 1300. Because of the case mainly; I didn't want to buy a new case as well as new barrels, new heads etc... another 900 I didn't want to spend.
I've decided on being 1300 so if I end up actually racing I can run in the same class as the cooper's so i've asked stan to build a 1300 mini beater.
Looking at getting some reconditioned 1300 twin ports from justkampers at them moment; but have to wait to see what is in stock as they are a special order.
And I've managed to source brand new Mahle P&C's also from Justkampers.
Going to order some 40Idf's to bolt on and the rest i'll leave to stan. I've told him everything can be changed except the displacement (1285cc).
So watch this space come September.... 👍
cnfabo ·
looking forward to seeing the outcome....good luck....
matberry ·
Sounds like a good option. Hope it goes well. 👍
swatter ·
Good luck! Looking forward to seeing how this goes.
sander288 ·
Brief Update,
Last post I got the P&C, i've now managed to get some reco' twin port heads from Jax VW Heads,
I've also got a restored 019 dizzy coming from Glenn Ring in the states; see link from the samba add, I got one in the screamer blue so the engine will look pretty swish; also if the car is retired from racing at any stage i'll jsut drop the front nad be cal-look! I'll keep my chinese 009 aside for an emergency and run the 019.
I havn't managed to sell the formula vee carb I have so that will get bolted on until I've saved some for the webers.
Got a 1300 myself, so I'm very interested in how you go.
So far it's lloking great - well done sander.
Old Timer
sander288 ·
Hey All,
Long time since last post; i've had a few delays in picking up the engine so have only gotten it last week!
It's all finsihed and I am very interested in seeing how it will run.
It's in and the picture below is just my dry fit of everything to just get the bugger going; eventually I'll get the tins powdercoated and pretty it up.. maybe
Been a pain setting up the tinware; as the cylinder tins are 2nd hand and were a little out of whack so it required some nip and tuck. Now my only issue (until I get it going) is the throttle cable is too long by about an inch; any suggestions?
In essecne it is basically a hot 1600 or base 1916 but under capacity so will hopefully produce better results without the more high performance parts.
just use half a split pin in screw clamp and just clamp it to the wire. making sure the the screw tightens up on the back of the split pin.
Smiley ·
You might want to fit a fuel pressure regulator for your Kadrons. They only like between 1.5 and 2psi fuel pressure.
I have the same carbies and linkage on mine and I've mounted it here.
Mine weren't running very nicely until I fitted it.
Aside from that I am loving your build. Keep up the great work!
Smiley 🙂
sander288 ·
Update,
All connected and plugged; have a minor issue of a single wire connected to the wrong spot but it's now pissing outside so i'll wait till morning to start it!
Re the fuel; I checked the amount of movement of the shaft before installing the pump with only a 4.5mm difference from highest to lowest point so the pressure should be fine; but we'll see
Cheers
Shaun
Doug Sweetman ·
Ditto for the pressure regulator... If the fuel pressure is higher than about 2.5psi at the carb it can push past the needle and seat and cause overfilling and missing and general nastiness.... Having said that they are great carbies, very simple !
Aussie Dubbin ·
Just read the whole thing fella good luck with the start tomorrow. Great read keep us posted
cnfabo ·
good luck sander,should be very fun to drive indead....post up some youtube vids maybe.....
sander288 ·
Update;
Trouble in paradise; went to start the car this morning and nothing...
Battery is ok so I then go to the starter motor; turn on ignition then put a screw driver over the 2 points on the solenoid; again nothing.
Trip to Vintage and purchased a new starter; put it in and woo hoo it wurrs; but then the battery goes...
Jumper leads and the Tiguan come to help; so then its cranking cranking and then nothing; uhhh...
Pull the new starter out and the starter bushing comes with it... compare my new bushing with old and the old one is WAY oversized which explains why it isn't starting...
now i'm jsut hoping I havn't broken my new starter; a bit fed up at the moment and have now gone in for a beer and wll try it again later this afternoon and cross my fingers, I may need to get a new bigger bushing to stop the slop,
Cheers
Shaun
[ Just removed and re-installed starter with a larger bushing; it is now cranking properly but still not catching; will sort it out soon...]
hellbugged ·
Is it the same flywheel you had before.????
........or have you hit mismatch 6V/12V box, bush, flywheel, starter trouble
sander288 ·
same flywheel as before; I got the starter going properly but now have no spark at the plugs so am working on the points.
The coil is good; its got a nice thick blue spark
Doug Sweetman ·
Tantalizingly close... Stick at it as there is nothing like hearing the first bark of life......
Aussie Dubbin ·
I'm sure you're on top of it but maybe a spark plug rotation to see if dissy is 90 or 180* out of place??? Good luck so close
sander288 ·
Update
Argh!
Got spark happening; and then systematically checked all the ignition system from switch to plugs - all working
So still no start; and the winner is fuel....
disconnected the fuel hose that goes to the tee piece and it was dry; looked under the car and the fuel isn't moving past the filter that is next to the gearbox,
Ironic seeing that everyone said look out for too much pressure!! 😂😂
Will get a new pump tomorrow and hopefully the thing will go, next time I get a new motor i'll take the whole car up and get it turn key!
Cheers
Shaun
HappyDaze ·
Fun, isn't it.🙄
But when it fires up, and runs sweetly, it will be worth all the pain.👍
Don't bring the engine stand back just yet, Shaun.😂😂
Sides ·
Oh c'mon Shaun... just get it DONE already will ya !!!
🥷
btw - you've checked it's not just a blocked filter, or a bug crawled into the disconnected fuel hose or somethin... yeah ???
Like the others have said - nothing more satisfying than when you've got it going yourself...
ian.mezz ·
did uou put the fuel pump lines on back to front.?
hellbugged ·
yeah i thought that too Ian
pump rod length too
sander288 ·
doubled checked all the fuel connections and the fuel is making it to the pump have cranked it over and nothing is coming out of the pump.
The rod length is fine too; I checked the rod movement and also length when I installed the pump,
The lines are installed correctly too; into the top one and out the bottom one, sounds silly but I took photos of it before I took everything off too make sure it went together in the working order! 👍
Thanks for all the replies everyone; appreciate the help
Doug Sweetman ·
I once had the pivot pin work loose and fall out of a fuel pump on my l bug.... It moved enough that the mechanism inside the pump fell off it and th pump thus had zero stroke length and no fuel flow ( Brazilian rubbish). That was a biatch to troubleshoot....
Do he mechanical pumps ever have problems priming ? Coul you start it on aerostart or similar to get it to run long enough to pump / prime ? Likely just failed diaphragm in the pump tho I guess
sander288 ·
The motor is now running; Wolfgang the Tiguan came to the rescue with some jumper leads, a new fuel pump and a cut thumb (final blood scarifice...?) the motor has roared into life.
❗❗❗❗
Very excited now; will need to work out a day to take the car somewhere to properly work the motor out as the car isn't street registered and i'm on a main road.
The only things i'll need to do for now is set the timing and get the thing to idle nicely (although it is a bit lumpier than before 😂) (Edit: and work out a catch tank for the breather...)
Cheers
Shaun
hellbugged ·
cool stuff, always exciting 👍
Aussie Dubbin ·
Congrats. Yay! Engine starting is great. Good luck first drive
Doug Sweetman ·
Fantastic !!! Good to hear
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:The only things i'll need to do for now is set the timing and get the thing to idle nicely (although it is a bit lumpier than before 😂)
I have the same Ivan Tighe cam (37/68) in my 36hp motor and once the carbs are balanced it idles like a stock motor (not lumpy!).
HappyDaze ·
Well done Shaun. 👍 Can you put some old oil, dirt etc. on the NEW fuel pump?.....it looks a bit flash.🙄
Bet you're pleased to have the engine going......it's a bit like hitting yourself on the head with a hammer, so that you can feel good when you stop! 😂
Cheers, Greg
sander288 ·
Yep well stoked with the motor thanks Greg; i'll bring that engine stand down to you if your free this weeked?
Hi Craig; i'll have to work on getting the carbs balanced if thats the case, early days yet...
All the panels are back on now see picture below; really happy with the decklid how it's sitting and also the muffler which doesn't stick out to far, video to follow which i'm uploading now.
Cheers
Shaun
HappyDaze ·
No hurry for the engine stand, Shaun.
I'll be driving the Cooper Porsche a Wakefield Park [85th anniversary or the Australian Grand Prix], but if you need to get the stand out of your way, you can leave it in front of the shed.
Craig Torrens ·
So how was the drags ?
sander288 ·
Hey All,
Update on the car, swapped out the 4 - 1 header as it appeared to be more bent more then thought after an altercation with a hire trailer and short ramps.
Replaced with a stainless steel GT 2-tip muffler from Classic Vee Dub
The car had a couple of runs up huntley flat out; but I never got enough tune time before the event, the drags were good; and I believe my time is in the latest VWMA (haven't got the latest issue yet though)
See below a video of a run I took the bug on today
Its running pretty well, but I need to dial in the timing on the Bosch 019 - anyone have a advance function timing light I can borrow?
The other change i'll make is reduce the balance tube size between the Kads to match the fuel line size (1/4"); as at the moment it's 1/2" like what Porsche used to run on it's Solex PBIC's and I think it's contributing to a mediocre throttle response.
Lastly I moved to Sunny QLD, so enjoy the vid with the great sunshine we've had!
Cheers
Shaun 😎
Lachlan VL ·
sounds good love it
sander288 ·
1/4 Mile was 18.91 at nearly 70mph
Lachlan VL ·
quick for a 1300cc
matberry ·
sander288 wrote:1/4 Mile was 18.91 at nearly 70mph
Very respectable, well done. Engine sounds great. Got some compression there by the sounds. 👍👍
sander288 ·
matberry wrote:
sander288 wrote:1/4 Mile was 18.91 at nearly 70mph
Very respectable, well done. Engine sounds great. Got some compression there by the sounds. 👍👍
Can't remember what it is exactly but Stan said he took ALOT off the heads.
I think it's about 9.3:1 or so...
hus22l ·
Great work sander!
The engine sounds great. You must be happy with end result.
Were u much over budget?
Hus
sander288 ·
Budget was a bit over but I bought some parts which I didn't really need like a new dizzy as I had a 009 that worked ok but yeah
Am happy with result, but I need to get it out on an open track and really see what shes like as drags and hillclimb are just too short!
Cheers
whatnow ·
nice work. can i pick your brains at some stage re suspension set up.
pity it isn't a '64. in 64 the FIA homologated the okrasa TSV 1300/34 kit. plenty of potential there.
have you considered changing the front brakes to twin leading shoe? i have started having a poke around and it looks quite do-able.
sander288 ·
Fairly happy with the brakes, am in the process of gathering parts to overhaul the stock set-up.
The car is identical to a 64 in most respects so it's not a hard thing to get it log-booked under the TSV 1300 guise.
How long you been in Armidale? I went to Uni there a few years back and was in my bug then, daily driven, see it in the snow near the airport.
what would you like to know regarding the suspension?; I've not done anything new I've treated the car as a BIG 1200 formula vee
Cheers
Shaun
whatnow ·
hi, i've been in armidale for years, i lived around the corner from you but never pulled my finger out and dropped in.
all sorts of general set up questions, what works best for you?. rear camber setting, did you set the front height even, a little lower or a little higher? camber compensator or rear sway bar, front bar size, etc.
from what stan said, i thought you might have trouble being allowed to run pre 1300 major components on your 67.
sander288 ·
Once you look into historic racing you soon find out ALOT of people are bending the rules and are logbooked as such.
This car is probably heading down a more tarmac rally route than all out historic track machine so getting a historic COD probably won't be applicable. If need be I only need to have the crank changed to a 64mm one and I'll have a 1200 and it would be sweet.
The Aussie 67s are basically identical to the 62 and a half beetle in most things except the 1300 engine.
My suspension at the moment is,
Front
Slotted 4" VW wheels
Formula Vee Dunlops or Michelin XZX ( 165R15 - street)
Bilstein shocks
3/4" bugpack sway-bar
Stock height for now - but I have some CSP adjusters that need to be installed which I'll use to lower the front end an inch or so.
Rear
5.5 Slotted 356 style rims
Formula vee dunlops or Michelin XZX (165R15)
Lowered 3 inner splines and 3 outer splines or there abouts
it has about 1.5 deg neg camber at the back
Compensating spring - made by Greg Mackie
That's it. My next developments will be to achieve some more pre-loading onto the compensating spring and I'm looking at swapping over to longer axles from a later swing axle bug (68 onwards) and also some custom valved shocks. The other thing I'm saving for is some Flat 4 BRM's as they are light and also have a wider offset which should give me a bit more track front and back. Lastly If I can find one I'd like to put an adjustable sway bar on the front too.
The tyres are also going to be changed over to some Michelin XAS FF in a 155R15 size, these Michelins have the same rubber compound as a Pilot Sport Cup tyre which is the OE tyre for Porsche GT3 RS and GT2 RS
The car needs to go to a specialist though to get all it's toe-in and out dialed in as I have mates who race historic formula vee and they swear by it (remember they have the same suspension basics)
i will be running fairly high on factory slotted rims probably with XZX's.
sander288 ·
Latest Update,
Been playing with the compensating spring on the back. I've made some longer attachments using High Tensile 1/2 UNF threaded rod, some zinc plated washers and nyloc nuts
The way it is now the bar is taking most of the weight of the back and is also giving the back a little more negative camber.
The other thing I did was bolt down the battery instead of the cable tie & old strap combination I had at Eastern Creek (to the disgust of ANDRA! - but they passed me and cursed VW's again)
please excuse the iPhone photos
chequer57 ·
The car needs to go to a specialist though to get all it's toe-in and out dialed in as I have mates who race historic formula vee and they swear by it (remember they have the same suspension basics)
The reason Historic Formula Vee's do that is any scrub is loss of speed, when you only have a blue printed 1192cc engine breathing through a 28 PCI you need every tiny little bit of drag reduced.
sander288 ·
Update
The cars racing career has been put on hold for a while now; as I need a 2nd car to get around in.
Today it's having it's Roadworthy inspection - fingers crossed it passes without an issue. 😵
I've taken the roll-cage and harnesses out; installed new 3-point belts, replaced the race rubber with street ones and re-instated the bumpers
Cheers
Shaun
matberry ·
That's what I love about a Volksie. Race car one day, daily the next, tomorrow....you tell me 🙂
sander288 ·
hahahaha, not quite a daily the next...
They didn't find anything wrong with the car; but weren't sure about a couple of things so weren't comfortable passing the car!
Fortunately they didn't charge me for this so I'm on the search for another roadworthy man; preferably confident on VW's
any suggestions?
sander288 ·
Ok, first rego check failed but now I have fixed all the"issues" and it's going back in tomorrow!
First step after rego is to quieten the mother down; I need some sound insulation in the back and a new exhaust.
By Thursday arvo I should have a registered beetle again! Hopefully I can make it up to Warwick
Cheers
Shaun 😀
sander288 ·
REGISTERED!!!!
Can't wait to cruise in her again, hopefully I can get up to Warwick
👍
whatnow ·
time for some historic road rally's?
sander288 ·
whatnow wrote:time for some historic road rally's?
Depends who is asking!! hahaha
I'll be on the look out for events though for sure depending on cost
whatnow ·
the halda offer still stands. the set up is getting close to plug and play bar one calibration gear i haven't got yet. no stopwatchs/clock yet though.
what is the rolling diameter of your front tyres?
sander288 ·
645mm
whatnow ·
165-80/15?
for your future reference, to set up a halda trip/twinmaster you'll want a 136 X gear, 39 Z gear. 🙂
sander288 ·
took the bug for a good run today at sustained speed, and I need to get rid of the current stance!
At the moment the back is down and the front is stock; I really need to get the nose down a bit and perhaps think about a kamei spoiler.
As soon as I reached 60mph + the steering became scarily "light" and with the big winds that Brisbane had today it was difficult to drive at speed to say the least. Slowing to 80kph helped but still no great.
It's strange actually the car never felt ridiculously bad on the track going down the straight but now on the road it's a bit naff... not enjoying it
Craig Torrens ·
have you had a proper wheel alignment ? what front swaybar and shocks do you have ?
sander288 ·
havn't had a wheel alignment; and running a bugpack 3/4" sway bar and bilstein shocks
shock part # 24-000321 - which looking on bilstein's website is suitable for only the rear... link below
I have run the current shocks and sway bar before on the track
sander288 ·
actually what I'll do it get the GoPro happening so folks can see it without me having to over describe it
sander288 ·
DISASTER!!!
Went to get the car out of the garage; fired her up and then it just cut out; no power.... mmmm been here before
Check battery ..... ok
Check that engine turns over..... nope
Check engine turns over with a spanner ......... nope
mmmmmmm
Check the starter is working using the old screw driver trick accross the solenoid..... noise but no cigar
So, the starter I believe has fucked itself and is now stuck against the flywheel, will pull it out and see whats going on
😵💫
ps the moment the engine stopped I got on the go pro! lol EPIC FAIL!!!
Worst part was getting it back in the garage, just me a hill and some ratchet straps joy 🤪
1303Steve ·
Hi
Try turning the motor backwards to unload the starter, btw how come you didn't get vanity plates? They are so cheep in Qld
Steve
sander288 ·
Hi Steve,
yeah could have gotten personalised plates as its a once off fee here, but still its money and I just wanted it on the road.
We jagged an almost personalised plate for our Tiguan though; it has mine and her initials!
1303Steve wrote:Hi
Try turning the motor backwards to unload the starter, btw how come you didn't get vanity plates? They are so cheep in Qld
Steve
matberry ·
Was the motor running when it stopped, or during cranking?
sander288 ·
the motor was running then stopped; just checked the vid! lol
Taken the starter motor out and the bronze bush come out with the starter.... could be the issue I'd say. Hopefully the starter motor isn't kaput
The actual engine does turn over with a spanner too
matberry ·
So now with the starter out you can turn the engine by hand ok?
sander288 ·
Using just my hands I can't budge it (weak I know), but with a shifting spanner on the bottom pulley nut I can turn it over with some effort required
sander288 ·
matberry ·
Sh1t that doesn't look good mate. Col isn't far away if you want his # he'll come and help. Give me a call if you need a hand or some input.
sander288 ·
problem solved, idiots book to the rescue again! (best trouble shooting guide!!!)
Took out the starter as I said and hook up some jump leads to the bugger to check the solenoid and the starter.
Screwdriver between the posts - wrrrrrrr, AWESOME! ok so not the actual starter
Screwdriver onto the ignition post and - wrrrrrr; the thing is ok
Thank god because I didn't want to spend another hundred or so on a new starter.
Looked at the bush that was in there and it wasn't worn but is very loose in the transmission; and the D-bolt engine bolt thing wasn't looking in good shape; so quick trip to Mick's motors and a new D-bolt and new converter bush (6V trans - 12V flywheel) bolted it up just now and the thing fired up with no issues! The new bush fits in nice and snug in the trans.
cost me $11 to fix!
Was seriously concerned when I couldn't turn the motor over hey! though it had shit it self royally!
Anyway; I'll get the video up of the steering tomorrow so you can see what i'm on about.
F#$king bug just wanted some loving
sander288 ·
hellbugged ·
Yeah there's too much play in the steering
Sides ·
Yeah, I'm with Daimo that too much play in the steering.
I'm used to BJ bugs, and I'd normally say steering box needs adjusting (but you say in vid that's been done)... else could be steering box is stuffed, steering box loose on beam or the pitman arm loose on the shaft.
If it was a tie rod end would expect there to be a bit of a noise associated with it. Likewise if was a ball joint, but I don't know K&L well enough to say if could be anything specific to them.
Oh hey - what condition is the donut in, and are the splined joints from box to donut to column all OK ???
tar76 ·
My bug does the same on the highway feels loose in the steering wheel. I also have directional tyres on the front which causes mine to duck n dive a bit.
Well done with the vid to mate
sander288 ·
I've only adjusted play between the steering worm and roller and havn't checked or adjusted axial play of the steering worm itself.
The king-pins and bearings are firm to; no play when wiggling the wheels.
The donut is looking a bit shagged but it doesn't appear to be creating the play that is present
I'll have a play with the car on Monday and see if I can come up with anything
hellbugged ·
Pull the fuel tank out and have a gander...
whatnow ·
glad the engine thing was an easy fix.
sorry no idea's about the steering.
1303Steve ·
Hi
I think your tyre pressures are little high but that besides the point.
Adjusting the steering box has some traps, the axial play is not something you want to touch unless you know what your doing.
Take the tank out as Damo said and leave the car on the ground and get someone to turn the steering wheel where the play is.
A common problem is the steering box not being centred when your going straight, to check this remove the two inner tire rods and turn the steering left to right and count the turns, 1/2 way is straight ahead.
Look where your steering wheel is now, it should be in the straight ahead position.
If its not remove the steering wheel and centre it and then get your wheel alignment guy to adjust the tie rods so that the road wheels point straight ahead in that steering wheel position.
Now that you steering is pointing straight you can check your adjustment, I find the best way is to grab pitman arm and see if you can push it up & down, you should aim for a very slight movement at this point.
Steve
sander288 ·
I think I've got the steering sorted to the point where it is solid enough on the road. Took the tank out and had a gander and there isn't play through any joints or the pitman arm so I re-read the procedure and re-adjusted the box.
So with that said I took it for a run up to Woodford today via the Mt Mee Rd and came back down the motorway; good run never got lower than 3rd gear on the hills, only real problem was the frigging gusts of wind we've got today I'd come into an opening and bam, the highway was worse!!! 🤪
Total trip of 170km; pretty happy!
Looking forward to the woodford run in Nov
vassy66T1 ·
Windy day out there today for Volksies 😁
sander288 ·
Just bought a new extractor and muffler off 'Lauboy' on the forum here.
Installed it on the car today and fired it up and the motor loved having less restriction! Getting rid of the twin tip was a great idea; best thing is the new muffler is 10x quieter!!
Pics and video to follow; pretty happy I've only lost about 1/2 of ground clearance at the back but the bottom of the flange is about even with the Pobjoy sump.
In reality I would of loved a new vintage speed setup (thanks for you help Matt) but on a 1300 its hard to justify anything more than a 1 3/8 header!
👍👍
pete wood ·
Bob did a tricky thing on my oval. He cut the twin tubes off and welded on 4 straight pipes like an Abarth exhaust. Have to say though, it's pretty loud.
sander288 ·
I thought of cutting the tips off and lengthening them to be just past the bumper, at the same time opening up the I.D of the pipes to 44mm instead of 30mm but packing more muffler packing into the tips like HUGE oversized stock tips.
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens ·
that should waken it up a bit 🙂..............all ready to put a stinger on now !!!
sander288 ·
Wonder if I could get away with a stinger at race meetings (not just drags)?
Craig Torrens ·
Will probably be too loud........just have a hotdog style setup that you put on for race meetings 👍
colin ·
Nice one mate, 👍
Cheers Col
sander288 ·
Looking forward to this weekend cruising with other dubs.
I've adjusted the valves
Adjusted the exhaust and now the pipe from the collector to muffler sits parallel to the body, some grinding of the bracket and it's all good.
Next on the list is new oil and heat riser block offs'
I've got some Penrite Classic Light oil coming from Rarespares; it's a 20W60 oil but it's got a whole lot more Zn & P than Castrol Edge or Penrite HPR and the same $$ as the castrol
I've also got a breather box too; it's an EMPI one but I figure an Al box is an Al box; so I may or may not hook that up this week but it's not urgent as a 1300 doesn't really suffer from excessive case pressure!
Craig Torrens ·
have you done a head torque yet ?
sander288 ·
No head torque yet; I've got to take the valve covers off again to attach the breather so I can do it then
tar76 ·
That sounds sweet 👍
1303Steve ·
sander288 wrote:Looking forward to this weekend cruising with other dubs.
Hi
Sounds sweet but the other dubs wont be happy when your exhaust sprays dust all over them because its pointing at the ground.
Steve
sander288 ·
Painted up the new breather before I fit it; IMHO I don't think an EMPI part has looked better!
The blue I tried to match to the blue of my Bosch 019 "Screamer" I think its pretty close but without the patina.
I kept the rubber o-rings on the inside of the box but added some copper washers on the outside so If any oil does get up there it shouldn't leak; with the valve covers I might add copper washers on both sides; what do others think?
benny_acko ·
Breather looks great - now just to age it a little...
I sent you a PM - was wondering if you got a chance if there were any tips / mod ideas you could give me for a stock 1300...Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love this car!
Craig Torrens ·
Just make sure you remove the foam from inside the breather box👍.
sander288 ·
benny_acko wrote:Breather looks great - now just to age it a little...
I sent you a PM - was wondering if you got a chance if there were any tips / mod ideas you could give me for a stock 1300...Any help would be greatly appreciated. Love this car!
No PM received....
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:Just make sure you remove the foam from inside the breather box👍.
Should I repalce the foam with anything? Or Just leave it open?
I've seen on the samba folks have put steel wool inside the box
sander288 ·
I installed the new breather box today; not going to vent the valve covers with the bungs supplied; I just don't trust them not to leak on the valve covers.
The box is just hooked up to the stock breather tower outlet and the other 2 inlets are just joined with a loop of 1/2" pipe to prevent anything getting out if it were to get oily.
Inside the box I replaced the foam with something called Eager Beaver Cleaning pad; they are made by Oates and are $3.00 at Bunnings they come in any coarseness and colour and allow ALOT more air through than the stock foam that comes with the breather.
Only problem is I've got a bit of a leak somewhere either on the motor & definately the gearbox. Believe it or not the 17mm hex plugs that are in the transaxle are mangled because someone hasn't used a proper sized hex, the box is slowly weeping out and around these plugs and I can't get them out to replace! In regards to the motors leak it doesn't appear to be under the tinware it looks like under the fanshroud; I've degreased and am in progress with this leak as it could be the breather pipe that was just routed to the fan inlet at the back of the shroud, I took the car for a run and am letting it cool so I'll see where its coming from. 👎
sander288 ·
FML - just jacked the car up after a GOOD clean and once the car was at operating temp (i.e. Oil started going to the cooler) the leak started.
Looks like I'll need to check out the oil cooler seals!!!! 😬😬😬 Not hard just a pain in the proverbial!!
Just so you know what I saw oil was ooozing out from in-between cylinders 3&4; looking at the trans those leaks aren't so bad but will need addressing.
Craig Torrens ·
did you have a new cooler and seals fitted when you put the motor in ?
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:did you have a new cooler and seals fitted when you put the motor in ?
I didn't do the cooler; have to check the paperwork...
matberry ·
Need to pressure test your cooler unless it's obviously the seals.
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:
Craig Torrens wrote:did you have a new cooler and seals fitted when you put the motor in ?
I didn't do the cooler; have to check the paperwork...
So pobjoy put the cooler on ?
sander288 ·
Looking at the paperwork its the same seals and cooler that i had, these were changed in 2009. The cooler is a good 2nd hand one from VVDS. I havnt checked the seals so i don't know if they are new or not.
This cooler was installed by Stan on the longblock
sander288 ·
Well they were new seals; But they are the wrong ones. I had only discovered this during 2009 when I had a bad leak. The only other seals that worked were the stepped seal that goes from 8mm to 10mm. It is really strange but they were the only ones that didn't leak with the good 2nd cooler I bought.
Heres the what the leak left after running it for a while
Heres the box; all clean. This silver disc was left on the prop shaft though... I think its off the pressure plate does it re-attach to it or do I leave it there?
Had to take the extractor off the get the motor out; couldn't move it forward enough to clear the bottom studs
sander288 ·
So I thought it looked like the seals; as the cooler seems completely dry; and the cooler was pressure tested before selling so I know it was ok.
Craig Torrens ·
that disc should be on your pressure plate ! why dont you upgrade to a doghouse cooler ????
sander288 ·
doghouse; we don't need no stinking doghouse!
Yeah I could change over; but I don't see the need it still is essentially a stock engine with a hot cam and comp and it's no more than a 356 or 912 ever put out with the same cooler setup. The only thing I would change is swapping the cooler for an Aluminium one.... way down the path.
I'll whack new seals in there and see how it goes
hellbugged ·
Doghouse it.... Ichanged my daily 1300 over to it and I'm sure no3 cylinder loves me for it 😉 if you have ever put your hand at the end of a doghouse cooler "exhaust" there's a lot of heat being shot out there and not over your cylinders
That ring on the input shaft is part of the thrust bearing Or pressure plate, either wau way it shouldn't be floating on it's own🙁
Show us pic of your pressure plate is it diaphram or finger type?
sander288 ·
Hey Daimo,
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the 8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
sander288 ·
Heres the ring,
Heres the pressure plate; you can see on the plate where the ring should be attached; the ring lines up perfectly with that bright part on the plate/centering ring holder
hellbugged ·
Weird looking Theodore bearing too.... Although I'm still only on my phone
sander288 ·
probs why the auto-correct is calling it a theodore bearing!! 😂😂
hellbugged ·
Yeah and I've tried fixing it twice 😉
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:Hey Daimo,
It's a diaphragm type like a Kennedy stage 1 but is EMPI....; speaking to Stan today he said that he's not seen one break off before so I've got to send him pics... but I questioned the EMPI plate when the motor was being built and he said he checked out the EMPI ones before using them and thought they were of as good of quality as the Kennedy ones; the only caveat on that is that I suspect he doesn't often have requests for his motors in cars that are still running most of the 6v equipment so this plate might not of been used by him in my application with the older throwout bearing design and centering ring used
I had a look at it this evening and the holder for the centering ring is still in place where it should be and the ring has broken free (cleanly may I add!!) So I need a new centering ring installed or a new pressure plate....
The cooler I checked out as well and it does have 10mm openings; so it turns out its a cooler from a 1500 beetle and a transition cooler between the 8mm 12-1300 ones and the doghouse coolers.... so some stepped/adaptor seals are required.
95% of beetles with swingaxles have the same setup.......so there is nothing unusual with yours. As for Empi being the same quality as Kennedy, well I doubt that.
Wrong seals used by stan.....well thats a PITA for you.
hellbugged ·
yeah im just used to these ones....
The thrust area on your THROW OUT bearing looks to have a larger I.D than mine and compared to the ring you say was part of the pressure plate.....could this have caused the issue
You sure that ring wasnt part of the thrust bearing and it was being run as early throw out with no ring on the pressure plate?
just doesnt look right to me....again, could be the pictures
sander288 ·
Daimo, went and checked the ring against the throwout bearing and it definatley doesn't fit inside of the bearing; it mates perfectly with it against the surface.
I'm sure it was part of the pressure plate; I just don't have any pics of the engine before I put it in...
You can see the pressure plate at the top of this page; the ring is attached!
Craig Torrens ·
The ring is off the pressure plate 👍
sander288 ·
Getting somewhere with all this;
Getting new seals sometime this week to fix up the leak; the ones that were in there are correct for the car I've just got the wrong oil cooler; typical that my only contribution to the motor (the cooler) has been the issue!! 😵💫
Stan's helping me out with the clutch and is sending me another centring ring for the pressure plate; easy done. Been searching the net for similar occurrences and the same thing has happened to Kennedy clutches, looking at the clutch cable yesterday the bowden tube has NO sag so I suspect it's been a contributing factor; non the less Stan was on the money about the EMPI part being ok; if you look at the EMPI catalog in the link in one of my other posts the Kennedy and EMPI parts are identical with a different marking; even been to a parts shop to look and cannot see the difference!!!
Overall I'm stoked with the motor; also happy that Stan has been incredibly helpful in this instance! Just need to get the motor back in fire it up and it'll be sweet
sander288 ·
Got the motor buttoned up etc... but as I said the clutch was out of adjustment and had no adjustment left on the threads. So I went to replace the bowden tube and get the correct sag; easier said than done in my case.
So I pulled the old clutch cable out and re-greased a new one and started feeding it in when the guide tube inside the tunnel comes loose, I'm like no biggy I'll thread it though and fix that up after except the guide tube had actually broken halfway down the tunnel!
Upshot is I can't get the cable down and am left without an operating clutch!!
Any suggestions on getting the guide tube fixed/replaced? Can't drive it anywhere so a mobile repairer or a tow is required.
Craig Torrens ·
just get it rewelded where the factory weld has broken (near the handbrake cable)............its a common problem👍
hellbugged ·
Search "Matt Ryan" for a post on where to make accurate access holes to fix the tube at the front
In my members ride thread there a few shots on how to go about making a bracket for the middle part
And lastly under the rear seat
Search Queensland vee dub club site for " inside a type 1 tunnel" to get a look at how it's all put in there from the factory
I will look for all those links after I get home from work tonight
I think I may have a similar situation - clutch pedal is depressed a fair way before a click sound and then some resistance..Thanks for the links and advice - just another addition to the list of things needing to get fixed.
sander288 ·
found these in the 1200 Bentley manual 😉
Craig Torrens ·
Any more updates ?
sander288 ·
Nope motor still out and clutch still un-repaired, my garage currently is a lagoon due to all the rain once it's dried out I should be able to get into it
sander288 ·
The garage has dried out enough so that I can have a poke around at the clutch tube issue; and it is a little worse than expected.
I was expecting to open up the tunnel and see that the tube had come loose in the middle or rear or front; BUT; the guide tube is actually in 2 pieces and had been joined at some stage with a hose clamp.
The middle and rear are attached to the car and aren't causing any issues but the front length of pipe is a bit worry some
hellbugged ·
So what's the " fix it" plan then?
Craig Torrens ·
IRS pan and a decent motor ? !😂
1303Steve ·
Hi
The metal tube that fits in a shock absorber is a good weld on fix for a broken clutch tube or you could go hydraulic.
Steve
sander288 ·
ooooooo hydraulic sounds interesting... but I think what I'll do is maybe remove the pipe that is still in there and get a new one welded in
OR, find where these pipes join and get the two sections braised or welded together. Only issue with this one is that It's kind of guess work as to where the join is
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:IRS pan and a decent motor ? !😂
Craig I do have an IRS pan 😉
sander288 ·
I got a better light to have a look in the tunnel and see what's going on and I found where the 2 pieces join (phew) I took some pics of it.
Inside where they join; has this middle mount moved to a weird location or is this normal? It appears to be mounting the accelerator cable tube
This is where this hole is
This is up front; is my clutch hook in a funny location or is this ok?
The trusty 1200 Bentley Manual shows the below
matberry ·
Have you late pedals fitted to early pan?
sander288 ·
If I do I wouldn't know; I've not touched the pedal cluster since buying the car in 2003.
Here is a UK pedal cluster from a 60-64 bug RHD
matberry ·
What are YOUR pedals though. Your pic shows the hook only, it looks like a welded hook which is the later pedals that are not cast assemblies like your UK internet pic which is what we would have up to '67. The late pedal assembliy (welded pressed metal construction) have the clutch hook further to the left in the pan, so adaption is required. I mod the pedals, maybe your car they butchered the clutch-tube with a late pedal assembly.
sander288 ·
Ask and you shall receive; definately not an early one
And a pic inside the tunnel; I've got some better access now so have "joined" the pieces together. The back section is also loose so it needed to be pushed backwards. No wonder I couldn't get a bow in the bowden tube, the guide tube was always to far forward.
sander288 ·
My cluster was pieced together by the bush mechanics
matberry ·
They pieced together the wrong pedals
sander288 ·
what do you think the best course of action is?
I can get the cable through and get the car going but it isn't going to achieve much. The pedal cluster well that is a cluster F*&K but it works but I might try and find a replacement one for my model.
The guide tube though I might get it tacked into place where it is and then once I've got a new cluster have a new tube welded into place where it is supposed to be.
I wonder if cold welding the front and back of the guide tube will get me out of trouble?
matberry ·
You need to weigh up what you want. To change to early pedals, you'll need to get the pedals (in good nick) and change the mounting point on the pan where the outboard mount is. I'm thinking a new clutch tube securely mounted but to meet the late clutch hook, will be the easiest, you already have access holes and the tube is loose now, so that needs fixing anyhow.
dangerous ·
That year bug was the first with those late pedals in Australia.
Daimo Pell's is the same model from memory, the last Aussie cars before the fully imported '68.
Whether VW Australia was smart enough to change the clutch tube position to suit? probably not.
Which may be why it has broken loose.
matberry ·
Thanks Dave, my mistake, obviously late '67, one would think.
I'm sure the factory would have changed the pan as I think there is around 40-50mm difference in the two different locations (by memory)
sander288 ·
The speedo shows May 67
I think what I'll do is just get a whole new tube welded in and close her up; done.
Whats the best material; stainless, copper, aluminium or steel?
sander288 ·
The little beastie lives again; got the clutch tube fixed up and put the engine back in this weekend. Running all good now leak free. Just need to check timing, valves & mixture, sync and top up oil.
She has been off the road for a little while now so It was good to take it around the block again.
hellbugged ·
Cool.
Yeah missed the updates Sean , sorry ... Same pedal assembly as mine.
Good to fire em up after a period of garagedness hey....
sander288 ·
Took it for a brief run again today; had to buy a new battery for her after the 7 year NRMA battery final wouldn't take charge.
Had to clear some stuff from the old rental and didn't have the tiguan..... so Bug to the rescue (again!) took out the passenger seat and loaded her up with some stuff. This would be about the 6th time she has helped me move house!
sander288 ·
Been plagued by a sticky throttle since putting twin carbs on the car and poked around to see what the issue could be; turns out the accelerator pedal has been minced together and re-welded in one spot so I found some rod ends which I got a few years back in error with a left hand thread; joined them together with some threaded rod and attached to the accelerator. Lateral's thread on his resto and daimo's help put me in the right direction!
I would recommend this type of upgrade to your pedal; I now have absolute max travel and really smooth pedal; getting around the city is going to be sooooo much better than before as a plus heel and toe should be possible! 👍👍👍
The other thing which I'll be getting before the end of the year is some titanium vale retainers to lighten up the valvetrain
sander288 ·
changed the regular nuts to nyloc nuts that I had lying around and spaced the bottom attachment point out a bit so the angle on the rod end isn't as severe.
Heel and toe is definitely now possible 😏
hellbugged ·
Flip the rod end at the pedal round the other way
Titanium retainers. Hmmmm, not for high mileage
sander288 ·
hellbugged wrote:Flip the rod end at the pedal round the other way
Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
tried the rod end on the other side it interferes with the pedal edge and doesn't line up with the hole.
In all honesty it is all a bit over engineered for the purpose but it only cost me $3 to do because of all this shite I had
Do the retainers wear out?
Craig Torrens ·
hellbugged wrote:Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
he does about 50km/year....so that won't be a problem 😂😂
sander288 ·
Craig Torrens wrote:
hellbugged wrote:Titanium retainers.... Hmmmm, not for high milage
he does about 50km/year....so that won't be a problem 😂😂
Pretty much the case at the moment but it's more like 100km/month 😂😂 (because thats high mileage....)
fish26 ·
Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
sander288 ·
fish26 wrote:Interesting thread, this whole 1300 banter......
Just curious, you have a Tighe 148A 37/68 cam, where do you find the powerband is with your combo considering the cam is on the large side for a 1300
I don't have a tacho; so that is pretty hard to for me to tell.
Going off what Stan has told me; it should be at 5500rpm max and come in around the 3k mark.... that is based off a 1641cc - best guess I'm on par....
It actually is a pretty strong motor for it's cc's. Driving it down to coffs and back the other month really gave me an indication of how it runs, especially in all the back roads around coffs and lismore (due to detour). It is running out of breath though at about 130-140kph, which is the exhaust I think.
fish26 ·
Thanks mate, good insight
sander288 ·
Soooo, despite all instincts to whack a good extractor on the thing like a big flange glass pack etc.... I've purchased a stock muffler...
BUT; I plan to ventilate this thing well enough that it will flow better than my GT thing that I have at the moment (which according to a volksworld test made less power than a stock muffler anyway on a 1600).
I got it today and went to it with the cutting wheel as it was clinking on the inside; turns out the pipes off 2 & 4 had snapped off and come loose in a couple of spots which meant they just pulled out. Unlike the muffler shown on the VWDCQINC website this one had 2 equal length pipes with a crimp on the end. The photos were taken just after a bit of a clean out so it looks a little moist inside.
Plan is to replace these pipes with new ones without the crimp and without the holes so that they basically direct it out their respective tailpipes directly; might look at directing the 2 & 4 inlets too, and then add on some straight pipes or TDE tail pipes. I'll then get it powder-coated in stock grey colour or ceramic coated (inside & out)
Without adieu the photos
sander288 ·
Well I've had a win on the selling for a porsche thing; the bug is NOT being sold 😎
SuperOwen ·
After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
sander288 ·
SuperOwen wrote:After cutting it open do you think it would have been easier to make a muffler from scratch a bit like an arbarth style system?
I like the idea of keeping it stock looking though, what tailpipes are you going to run?
Probably... but I also can't weld so would need to leave the car with someone to do this etc... plus have a "stock" looking can is part of the appeal.
The exhaust is being modified today, found a muffler shop that was willing to have a crack at it.
Valley Mufflers in Fortitude Valley (80 Dogget St).
See how they go; unfortunately I can't take pictures of the process but he is replacing the crimped pipes with straight smooth pipes and removing the baffled cones from 3 & 1 inlets then welding it all back together; some grinding by me and a couple of coats of VHT it will be set
sander288 ·
Picked up the muffler and it looks a treat; the metal is very thin so the exhaust guy had a big of a time getting it to weld but he managed.
The 2&4 pipes are now smooth and uniform along their length and end just next to the exhaust outlets; for 1 & 3 inlets the cones were left in there as the J pipes are just a bit longer.
It is now getting a Hi-temp powder coat in matte black and I'll pick it up next week.... more to follow
can just see the pipe next to the opening
Craig Torrens ·
sander288 wrote:It is running out of breath though at about 130-140kph, which is the exhaust I think.
Reality check for you:
base pobjoy 1916 has around 65hp atw......a base pobjoy 1640cc has 24% less power (as dyno proven by stan)...so around 48-50hp atw. You have a 1300cc with the same specs, so you're going to have around 40hp atw.......you're running out of breath Sander288 as the 40HP you have can only do so much !!
sander288 wrote:The 2&4 pipes are now smooth and uniform along their length and end just next to the exhaust outlets; for 1 & 3 inlets the cones were left in there as the J pipes are just a bit longer.
Well I hope you didn't leave the cones in as they are the most restrictive part in the standard exhaust.
As a matter of interest, how much is this exhaust going to cost in the end ?
sander288 ·
Craig, probably the case re the power and running out of breath; even if there isn't an actual improvement I'll be running out of breath with an exhaust that is period and does flow better than the current one.
Re the cones; if that is the case I'll have to drill them out with a larger drill bit as much as I can
The cost is going to end up at $250 (including buying the 2nd hand muffler); if I can sell the current exhaust it will have worked out less than buying a new dansk/german muffler from a shop; If I could weld this would have been a pretty inexpensive exercise
hellbugged ·
Do you run "flanges" on the j pipes/ muffler joins?
sander288 ·
hellbugged wrote:Do you run "flanges" on the j pipes/ muffler joins?
The other thing I did was bolt down the battery instead of the cable tie & old strap combination I had at Eastern Creek (to the disgust of ANDRA! - but they passed me and cursed VW's again)
Just before you go, this amused me no end! 😂
Some of the tech guys weren't around I guess when a leather belt was recommended as a battery tie-down! Not a piece of billet in sight.
Thanks for a great read on a cold wintry morning mate. 👍
lunar_c ·
Just got a 67' 1300 and loved reading about your engine development. Cool build!
sander288 ·
Thanks for the reply guys; not alot happening on it atm.
Continued consternation over the exhaust; needing to get a small hole welded in the stock muffler has prompted me to rethink the exhaust some what; that in addition to other issues.
Sooo, the stock muffler is pretty cool and absolute sleeper (not that a 1300 surprises anyone) and is definitely period but does restrict power seeing I have some new rockers to go on and want the most out of it it begs the question should I just bite the bullet and get a new exhaust....?
My criteria for an exhaust are
1. Good ground clearance; even with or just below the rear valance
2. Good performance
3. Well made
4. Stock cut-outs
5. must be capable of having heaters (historic regulations; and need demister for rallies if need be)
6. Adjust valves without removing shit
7. Stock tinware + thermostat
So my options are
CSP Python (violates, 3 & 6; but has great performance and is tuneable)
CSP Super Competition (ticks all boxes but is heavy ~20kg going off CSP nominal shipping weights online)
Vintage Speed (ticks all boxes and is cheaper than 2 above; but does the heater box version perform as well? I know the equal length header one like Matt Berry has is good but no heater, no thermostat and not all tinware possible)
So I'm in a bit of a pickle; the costs are
~$900 for the CSP Super Competition + J tubes ~$165
Around $1100 for the Python + J tubes
~$430 + $150 for J pipes on the vintage speed
Heres some videos; and there is a sticky of pictures for all these exhausts on the tech talk section "VW exhaust Reference Images" or link below
CSP Super Competition
CSP Super Competition
Vintage Speed Equal Length header
CSP Python (42mm not 38mm)
Vintage Speed (heater box)
Vintage Speed (heater box)
If nothing else this is a good comparison of these systems; I've emailed VS to see what testing they have done on their heater box systems.
sander288 ·
if you haven't seen on my blog and gathered from the posts above I've been looking for a replacement exhaust for a while now; spent too much time looking and thinking about stuff!
Managed to find a really good deal via Aircooled Parts.net from the US and got a complete with J-tubes everything for $440USD with flat $60USD delivery so went for it on a vintage speed superflow system.
Can't wait to install after all this rain is gone and the car is moved to an actual garage! I also purchased some Scat "big-mouth" push rod tubes to allow more clearance on my pushrods once I get around to putting the CB Super stock 1.25:1 rockers on.
VS certainly package their stuff well and the quality looks fantastic!
lunar_c ·
You've pretty much built exactly what I wish to do with my 67' .. Tasteful and interesting as always mate.
benny_acko ·
I also have this exhaust on my '67 Deluxe with the 1300.
I have the non-flanged J Pipes and there appears to be a leak as it backfires when I downshift under engine load. Looks like I will be getting some flanged ones...
Still sounds way better than stock!
lunar_c ·
Just wanted to ask if you've done anything to your brakes? I've got recently new drums/shoes/lines/master cyl and wheel cylinders which I've adjusted to specs but I'd still like a bit more braking power with a little less pedal effort.
I've read about people changing master cylinder and wheel cylinder sizes and I've seen there are also sintered drum shoes available and also putting type 3 drums on which are bigger but wondered what was the most effective and simple approach.
You mentioned you have friends who race in formula vee .. Some classes they have to run drums don't they? Do they improve them at all or is the reduced weight of their chassis enough?
I just want a bit more braking surety for my stocker..
sander288 ·
I think what you've done has probably been the best steps; there are some grippy shoe linings that you can get which provide a decent amount of oomph but obviously won't last as long as a everyday lining.
From what I know about the vees their brakes are just stock; as you said given their weight they get away with it; some may get better shoe linings.
The type 3 rears are a good option but I've never heard someone use them with drum fronts and the wide 5 type 3 stuff is getting thin on the ground in decent quality.
You can get aluminium rings to put around the drums for better cooling but this doesn't "improve" the braking.
My brakes haven't been touched as yet; but I do have some VVDS discs sitting around that may get thrown on perhaps otherwise I am doing as you and replacing what needs replacing but also adding some better linings and aluminium cooling rings and going over to dual circuit.
Something I have though about is testing kombi or type 3 wheel cylinders but have been hard up finding information if anyone else has done this with success in a 4 wheel drum application
Sorry not much help but there are others on here that have played around with this for sometime; hopefully they chirp in 👍
lunar_c ·
I think I'll try the upgraded linings next and report back to you on how they go for street use.
Then I'll think about master cylinder size..
As you said people mucking around with wheel cylinder sizes are usually trying to get the proportioning right after front brake upgrades or guys with buggies trying to get their buggies to turn under brakes, not many people hanging onto drums.
I really like what you've done with your car mate. I'm pretty keen on doing a "hot" 1300 for mine when the rest of the car is restored. Then I'll make a case with the Minister of Finance 🙂
pete wood ·
I've uprated from 56' drums to 63' drums. That was good... but not a patch on front discs. Even without bleeding them properly, they still worked PILES better than the drums at the their best.
One a related note, Type 3 rear drums (the wide ones) are pretty awesome. The only downside with them is regular adjustment of shoes, but that's not all that difficult. They also supply a pretty awesome handbrake for handbrake turns. MUCH better handbrake feel than the EA falcon rear discs that a mate has on his car... and cheaper too.
HappyDaze ·
The problem with drum brakes is not the drums, but lining material. No.8 Beetle would brake heavily, at 160 KPH, lap after lap...with good linings. Even though asbestos is no longer used in brake linings, it is possible to get fairly good linings. Almost as good as the Ferodo woven asbestos linings of 50 years ago.
As Shaun says, aluminium fins help to keep the drums cool - they also help to keep them from going 'oval'. The only reason for me going to 356 brakes [still drums] was because the after-market VW drums are rubbish, and therefore dangerous.
lunar_c ·
What's happening with the beast these days??
sander288 ·
lunar_c wrote:What's happening with the beast these days??
😢😢 Sitting on axle stands beneath the house; it runs etc... just unregistered and unfunded
Air-cooled is good, but it has only half the required number of cylinders & wheels ! 😏
lunar_c ·
I do love the R bikes. An early R90S or R75/5 would be my all time favourite bikes, actually.
sander288 ·
I finally got around to installing the vintage speed exhaust today. It fits nicely and sounds good, haven't driven with it on yet but first impressions are positive, I like the longer tailpipes on it over the GT. All the flanges and fitting is a bit fiddley but went on without a hitch. This style of system could on be installed due to the adjustable flanges, my modified stock system was too wide given the amount that was taken off the heads for compression, the GT was flexible enough to move about.
Hopefully that album works. Given the car a really good wash and polish, added the towel rails back to the car, and also replaced the coil nc added an electronic ignition to the 019 dizzy, unfortunately the NOS points and condenser weren't working anymore and grounding out internally.
The bumpers are a bit of a mixed bag, back in 2010 or 2009 I had been parked and rear ended by a 7 series, which bent my good Aussie made stainless towel rail, given the budget at the time I simply unbolted both bumpers and carried on with it, but I really do like the towel rails, so the rear is a German chromed bar and rail with Aussie stainless overriders, the front is full stainless and original. The towel rail supports have been filled in since I've owned the car, behind the panel are little blanks blocking the holes, another thing on the to do list I suppose!
Well might be another 12 months until the next update, the GT exhaust is up for sale too if anyone is looking for one.
Cheers
beetleboyjeff ·
Those VS are nicely done, aren't they
sander288 ·
beetleboyjeff wrote:Those VS are nicely done, aren't they
Very nice indeed, the sound is good too!
Biggest exhaust the car has had as well so there hopefully is some gain as all other exhausts weren't 38mm diameter pipes.
sander288 ·
Kroozzn61 ·
I just got the old speed catalogue from VVDS they look great !