Just did My tappets and they were all Tight excepting number two cylinder... Inlet loose... Exhaust OK...
are My valves stretching...????
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Could it be those alloy valve covers, Lee?
Matt Berry had some 'correct' valve clearances.......looks like you will need 7 of them. Good luck!🙄
I'd rather wear a Beetle out by racing it than by polishing it!
Yeah good on ya Greg....
How tight Lee. You mean still some clearance but tighter than spec .004" - .006" depending on your religon., or do you mean tight as in no clearance when checked dead cold, and you had to back off the screw before you had clearance, then some more to set the gap????? If you did have to back the screws.....how much??
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
68AutoBug wrote:
Just did My tappets and they were all Tight excepting number two cylinder... Inlet loose... Exhaust OK...
are My valves stretching...????
Lee
Lee I would say valve seat recession rather than valve stem stretch.
Did you forget to paint them Lee? 🙂
HappyDaze wrote:Could it be those alloy valve covers, Lee?
Matt Berry had some 'correct' valve clearances.......looks like you will need 7 of them. Good luck!🙄
How much does He charge for correct valve clearances...
😂😂
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
They are normal old pushrod valves
matberry wrote:Yeah good on ya Greg....
How tight Lee.
You mean still some clearance but tighter than spec .004" - .006" depending on your religon., or do you mean tight as in no clearance when checked dead cold, and you had to back off the screw before you had clearance, then some more to set the gap?????
If you did have to back the screws.....how much??
Hi Mat
I didn't try .004 etc...
but I don't think there was any clearance at all....
I Only had to untighten the nut to adjust the screw...
so, it wasn't a lot ...
engine was COLD... 4C overnight... lol in carport..
I wrote down whether they were very tight or Ok or loose
on My shed wall... lol
last times I wrote down on a piece of cardboard and never kept it... ?? I'll have to write it down in a book this time
and keep check... I kept thinking I must have done they wrong last time... lol
actually My engine went really well today.....
I thought it had been a bit sluggish lately.. [last month]
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
matara wrote:Did you forget to paint them Lee? 🙂
I was going to paint them bright yellow
but every time I see them they have horrible black oil on them....
😂😂😂
so, I was worn out from cleaning them...
😂😂😂
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Sounds like you have valve seat issues or soft valves, some of the s/s valves are quite soft and so they wear prematurely, but most often it's the valve seats receeding into the head. You also had tight clearances last time? If so, check them again but reduce the interval, std interval is 6 000mls or 10 000 km, although every oil change is good practise (ie 3000/5000) So I'd recheck yours at 1000mls 1600km and write down where they are before reseting them, that way you'll have more of an idea of what is happening. Won't stop the problem, but if monitoring it, you can plan for repairs.
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
Sluggish lately ... due to some riding valves maybe?
Matt Berry Motorsports...air cooled advice, repairs and mods Ph 0408 704 662
OFF-ROAD,CIRCUIT,DRAG,STREET,ENDURANCE
matberry wrote:Sluggish lately ... due to some riding valves maybe?
leaking cylinders maybe... [valves]
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Yes,
I normally do them about every 1000klms at every oil change
as I like to wipe all the dirty oil out of the tappet covers.. lol
I wipe out the sump too,.... lol
cheers
Lee
PS: one head is a reconditioned one.. [1 & 2] jax heads
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
Grumble and Matt are right. 90% of these problems are valve recession caused by, hotter than design exhaust gas temps, unfortunately your pretty well stuck with it, due to unleaded being lower octane it hasn't completed combustion prior to the exhaust valve opening, the only way to reduce it dramatically is to fit nickel cobalt seats & very good non standard valves (very expensive probably more expensive than new heads, I don't know it's been 15 years since I left engine reco so a lot has changed). This conversion was our bread and butter after the introduction of unleaded but is also a major issue in diesels and gas engines. The simplest and cheapest thing to reduce it to a minimum is to keep it in tune and run a little bit rich, (extra fuel quenches the combustion camber keeping it a bit cooler like dipping your hand in a bucket of petrol and letting it evaporate). I've been avoiding saying this because it seems to start arguments, Lower Octane Higher Temps, Octane is a measure of resistance to combustion not how big the bang is, google it.
Imac
there aren't many people these days that would stick their hand in a bucket of petrol....😂😊
or even get petrol on their hands..
years ago it didn't matter what You stuck Your hand in... lol
times have changed...
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
68AutoBug wrote:there aren't many people these days that would stick their hand in a bucket of petrol....😂😊
or even get petrol on their hands..
Speak for yourself
😀
Smiley
🙂If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
