I know this is a simple question and I know the answer but before I get nasty with it I just want to make sure
The rear centre castle nut is a normal right hand thread both sides with just a split pin holding it in
I can see they have used never seize on it I have rattled and rattled this nut and it won't move the bug has sat around for about 4 years prior to myself owning it, so I have no history
NEED MORE LEGERAGE AND FORCE.
Get a 3/4 drive and a long breaker bar (about 5-6 foot), get a mate to sit in the car, full weight beetle with their foot on brake and crack that sucker loose.
Since you are using a rattle gun and you may have already tried this, give it a go at tightening the nut with the rattle gun and then again try backing it off. Just a trick I was taught about 30 years ago, hope it helps.
Kev
I thought rebuilding a VW would be cheap - Shit I was wrong, just don't let the wife know !!!!
Click here for my (slowy) modded 1961 Beetle build.Tried reverse it nah no go
and got no body on it so i'm a bit lite on when it comes to brakes
As long as I'm turning the right way Time to get serious time to GET THE WIFE😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Ok car off is no real problem. Put two wheel nuts in just about all the way. Now use a 'non-bendy' bar between the two wheel nut in a position that wont allow the wheel to spin (the bar hits the ground and stops the wheel from spinning when you undo the castlated nut.
Now you need a breaker bar that doesnt flex, as i said above get rid of the rattle gun, its useless on this one.
3/4" drive and a 5-6 foot lever on the end of it.
Once you get the flex and movement stopped it works pretty easily. otherwise its just hard work that 'seems' impossible.
b]Hi
This IS very common seeing the nuts need to be tightened to 253 foot lbs OF TORQUE ... You can quite easily snap off the square on a 1/2 inch drive... as said a 3/4 drive and 5 to 6 foot of pipe on it and jump and down on it.. same way to do it up.. [OR EVEN LONGER]
never seize is a must if You ever want to undo the nut again.
once they have rusted on.... YIKES..
You can buy a tool that You sit over the nut and then hit the tool with a VERY Large Sledge Hammer... these are common in the USA... they sound dangerous to me...[/b]
keep spraying WD40...
and use 1 1/2 or 2 inch pipe over a 3/4 breaker bar and socket...
Jump Up & down... ON THE PIPE..
If the nuts aren't done up to that torque they do come loose and can easily wear all the splines off the brake drum...
cheers
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
If you have tried everything and are desperate drill a 4mm hole in the nut along the cotter pin hole,get a FBH (lump hammer) and a good cold chisel and give it a couple of whacks (remember to support the underside of the axle). This will either split the nut or expand it enough to remove it,then toss it in the bin and buy a new nut. When you refit it remember it has to go to 30mkg which is bloody tight. Good luck and be careful.
grumble wrote:If you have tried everything and are desperate drill a 4mm hole in the nut along the cotter pin hole,get a FBH (lump hammer) and a good cold chisel and give it a couple of whacks (remember to support the underside of the axle). This will either split the nut or expand it enough to remove it,then toss it in the bin and buy a new nut. When you refit it remember it has to go to 30mkg which is bloody tight. Good luck and be careful.
what is 30mkg ?? that doesn't sound tight... lol😂
now 253 Foot Lbs.. that does sound tight... lol
Lee
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
If you stilll have this problem, try soaking the nut with eucalyptus oil. It's the best penetrating oil. It's much better than WD.
Get one of those spanners that you hit with a hammer. Sorry, I can't give you a pic. They are solidly made and are very thick. They sort of look like a figure of 8.
Support the car on its wheels with the hand brake on and whale into the nut wiith a very big hammer. Don't put it in gear. Don't put this impact force into the gearbox. It could damage it.
When you put the nut back on, tighten it with the hammer and pin it. Drive for about 10km and then check to see if the wheel nuts are hot. If so, they are too tight, back them off a notch. See if they could be easily tightened another notch. If so do it and do the 10km test again.
68AutoBug wrote:grumble wrote:If you have tried everything and are desperate drill a 4mm hole in the nut along the cotter pin hole,get a FBH (lump hammer) and a good cold chisel and give it a couple of whacks (remember to support the underside of the axle). This will either split the nut or expand it enough to remove it,then toss it in the bin and buy a new nut. When you refit it remember it has to go to 30mkg which is bloody tight. Good luck and be careful.
what is 30mkg ?? that doesn't sound tight... lol😂
now 253 Foot Lbs.. that does sound tight... lol
Lee
30 mkg is 30 metre kilograms force.=217 ft/lbs
1mkg = 7 ft/lbs
I had to get some axle nuts off recently,the vehicle was immobile,no engine and no brakes the only way was to drill the nut and split it with a chisel,this leaves the thread good to reuse with a new nut.
Sounds like a good way to save the thread from any harm...
or anything else... [from any harm]
the cold chisels aren't used much these days... lol
LEE
- Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY---
sorry if this has been said before, but the best way to torque the nut back up (if you haven't got a 250f/lb+ torque wrench) is to use a set of bathroom scales
stand on the scales and tighten with say a 5ft lever until your weight decreases by 50lb (253lb / 5ft) or 23kg,, 4ft leverage = 253 / 4 = 63 lb( 28.5kg)
I wouldn't recommend using this method with anything less than 4ft lever.
cheers
Steve
FYI that tool you whack with a fbh can be bought from Meyersmanx.com.au for about $16. Just check the tool section.
Also I had The same problem. I gave the local mechanic $20 to drop by and crack them for me. Too easy!
