Need help with new Drum brakes.

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 19 Nov 2011, 8:41 pm

#873079

Hi all

So I stripped (splines) one of my rear drums on my 65 type 3 and have bought 2 new drums.
They were super tight to get on so I turned the adjusting stars all the way in but was only just able to get them on.

The problem I have is that the rear brakes are now permanently on... I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out 🙁

What do I do?

Special Air Service Chief "Gunna"

1,769 posts · joined Oct 2004 · 19 Nov 2011, 8:46 pm

#873080

izac wrote:I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out 🙁

What do I do?

Yes I think that some brake places can bond thicker material to the shoes to make up for o'size drums.

But I also think you can get this "extra" material ground off the shoes as well, you'll need to talk to a reputable brake joint to get details though.

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Anthiron The Baja Rejuvenation Begins

4,936 posts · joined Oct 2003 · 19 Nov 2011, 9:17 pm

#873086

Brake shoes are cheap. Why not get some new ones?

are the shoes only rubbing at the top near the slave cylinder? or all around. Did you try pushing the piston arms back in to reset them.

I know the calipers on my Mountain bikes often have this problem with new pads. The pistons need to be gently levered back into the caliper.

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izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 19 Nov 2011, 9:29 pm

#873092

i think they're rubbing all around - almost impossible to move by hand on one side, impossible on the other.... Yeah I tried that Nicko, and it helped a bit, buts still rubbning 🙁

68AutoBug Beetle Restorer - Experience over 138\% - YIKES --

11,654 posts · joined Aug 2002 · 19 Nov 2011, 10:27 pm

#873107

izac wrote:Hi all

So I stripped (splines) one of my rear drums on my 65 type 3 and have bought 2 new drums.
They were super tight to get on so I turned the adjusting stars all the way in but was only just able to get them on.

The problem I have is that the rear brakes are now permanently on... I understand that the old drums had been at their max machining tolerance so is it possible they might have put on thicker brake pads to acccomodate for this?
Or do I have to get my new ones machined out 🙁

What do I do?

Hi
I believe You will have to get the NEW drums machined...
which would be a waste

or get two old drums... that would have worn slightly... !!
Easy to pick these up anywhere...

it depends on the brake company what thickness the shoes were... maybe thicker than originals... which is good in one way.. lol

The rear axle NUTs have to tightened to the specified tightness or they do come loose and chop out the splines in the hubs...

the alternative is to have the brake shoes slightly machined down...

Having the drums machined is common on old cars... and years ago the drums were machined when new brake shoes were fitted... to smooth the drums out...

but Yours are NEW...

cheers

LEE

disc brake pads etc have nothing to do with drum brakes...
they don't retract like drum brakes...

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HappyDaze Superannuated

2,887 posts · joined Jun 2009 · 20 Nov 2011, 6:27 am

#873123

Don't machine your new drums, that's a waste of good drum metal.

Take the shoes and drums to your friendly brake place, and get them to 'radius-grind' the linings to suit the new drums. Should only cost a few bucks.

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Governor Wolfsburg Wizard

414 posts · joined Nov 2008 · 20 Nov 2011, 6:32 am

#873125

As above , get the shoes to match the drums not the other way round.

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 20 Nov 2011, 11:44 am

#873154

Ok thanks guys, will get the shoes done. Thanks for your help!

Matt Ryan Fahrvergnugen

890 posts · joined Jan 2006 · 20 Nov 2011, 12:47 pm

#873165

HappyDaze wrote:Don't machine your new drums, that's a waste of good drum metal.

Take the shoes and drums to your friendly brake place, and get them to 'radius-grind' the linings to suit the new drums. Should only cost a few bucks.

After a quick measure, brake place should be able to tell you if they are oversize shoes or not. Be prepared that there may not be enough meat on them for a radius grind. If that's the case get new stock shoes, machining the drums to suit would be crazy.

Regards,

Matt.

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matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 20 Nov 2011, 1:42 pm

#873168

Make sure your handbrake cables haven't been over adjusted and are also holding the shoes on. With the handbrake off, drums removed, balance bar will get free play when cables allthe way off so as not to influence the overall diameter.

Otherwise, I'd just buy a set of std shoes, keep the oversize ones for a car that needs them, maybe yours in 5-10 years.... 🙂

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izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 20 Nov 2011, 2:44 pm

#873179

Thanks guys.... just had an idea, tell me if its crazy though 🙄

Seeing as the front pads normally wear quicker, would it be worth swapping them around to the back, and back ones to front? as I still have old drums on the front....

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 20 Nov 2011, 2:44 pm

#873180

*shoes

matberry Moderator Go hard or go home

8,114 posts · joined Mar 2006 · 20 Nov 2011, 3:32 pm

#873185

No, they are different front - rear

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izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 20 Nov 2011, 3:58 pm

#873191

ok, there goes that idea 🤓

izac Wolfsburg Wizard

508 posts · joined Jun 2008 · 21 Nov 2011, 9:17 pm

#873468

A big thank you to Mat Berry! You were right about the handbrake cables - loosedn them right off and the turn freely now 🙂 Only thing is, I then proceeded to bleed the system and the pedal is still pretty spongey with a lot of travel 🙁