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Lower '75 L Bug

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TorxKiwi Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Jun 2011 ·

#894737
I want to lower my '75 L Bug and having read everything online I am now suitably confused. I figure if I just break it into a series of questions that I might get some answers on here that will clarify. I'm not looking to do anything radical, about a 2" drop at the front to take the tail dragging look out of it.

1. For the back end I just need to adjust the spring plates. No parts required?
2. If I install these springs, http://www.justkampersaustralia.com/shop/1302-1303-lowering-springs-j18058.html do I need to do anything else?

Cheers
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#894747
g'day

I would go this way
https://www.classicveedub.com.au/cvd_new/parts.aspx?SearchData=struts

You need the last one - the 2 bolt

You need a shorter insert if you lower. The springs are ok (in my uninformed way) if you say go 1" or are part of a whole set up
Stock springs are under pressure when installed so when the front isnt under pressure (say going over a bump - when the front is on a "rise") the strut assembly is still "together"

I cant see how those lowered springs work with a non adjustable cup.
Those springs are not under pressure when you use them.
My adjustable struts you put the springs in and you adjust the cup till the spring is snug under extension

Does that all make sense??

As for the rear - do the front first and see how far the bum gets pulled up.
Lower the front and the bum comes up
Futue te ipsum!!!

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#894748
remember to need a spring clamp when taking stock struts to pieces

You will blow your arm off if you just take the nut off
Futue te ipsum!!!

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#894768
Those lowered springs would do the job for you but the ride quality they give would be questionable.

Barry, they work similar to cutting coils.
They are the same as a stock spring but made abit shorter and usually a bit firmer so when the struts put back together they hold the car up 60mm (ish - varies from car to car) lower but still have the same spring rate.

Where the ride will suffer is the stock struts at a 60mm drop are starting to run out of travel so when you hit bumps they are gonna bottom out on the bumpstops more.

The easiest and most effective way is buy the adjustable struts Bizarre linked up.
They are made shorter so you don't lose travel once lowered and are adjustable so you can tweak with it after if you're not happy.


But one thing to consider is wheels, are you sticking with stock or planning on wider wheels?
74 onwards Lbugs can be a pita with non stock wheels when lowered for rubbing and clearance.

TorxKiwi Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Jun 2011 ·

#894786
Do I just keep the stock springs, which I assume would be partially compressed, with the lowering kit, or do I still need the shorter springs as well.

No plans to go wider on the wheels ...... at least not this week!!!
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."

TorxKiwi Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Jun 2011 ·

#894787
What's the deal with using Mk1 Golf struts, inserts and springs. I believe that these fit and will achieve the desired outcome?
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#894788
you keep stock springs. They will still be compressed as the "top" is lower

The Golf insert is shorter
When you lower the cup you dont lower the base where the insert sits. So you need a shorter insert so as you get "full and propper" travel of the insert with the stock spring in relation to the new position of the top
Futue te ipsum!!!

TorxKiwi Officially Full-On Dubber

231 posts · joined Jun 2011 ·

#894792
So I just climbed under the car to check things out. Will the setup from classics have mounting points for brake lines etc or do I need to weld something on?
"Ownership of a Beetle is not a destination it is a journey."

Bizarre Moderator The artist formerly known as blue74l

12,785 posts · joined Aug 2002 ·

#894793
probably have to weld something on

There is a reason they are cheap
Futue te ipsum!!!

Joel Now containing 100\% E-Wang

9,368 posts · joined Feb 2006 ·

#894794
Nah, thats the downside to empi stuff.
Toplines struts come with clamps to hold them.
They are just uni-strut pipe clamps, easy enough to get through Enzed, blackwoods etc




The Mk1 golf struts don't work on their own, the springs firstly are designed to have the weight of a front engined car on them and secondly they are huge, about 2" bigger in diameter than Lbug springs.

It's only the inserts that are used, they are the same as bugs but shorter.

THey are 2" shorter than later 2 bolt Lbug
Or 4" shorter than earlier Sbug, these are my old KYB Sbug inserts and the shorter Boge Golf ones I bought for my lowered struts



That's what all the lowered struts for bugs use for increased travel.

BiX Veteran Volks Folk

2,499 posts · joined Sep 2002 ·

#894970
I think there are humerous ways to lower your ride.

1. as above, modify body and shorter insert with stock spring. - gives normal ride but lower.
2. shorter stiffer spring, std insert. You used to be able to get King springs to make them. Means its stiffer so won't bottom out as much. runs standard beetle part of rest which is nice
3. max struts, vofrce struts etc

As said above, big thing will you run wider wheels and tires and is this for looks, handling or both?
I have no sympathy for my car, only the wallet that pays for it!
Go hard or go home!!!!