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 wombatventures
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| posted on March 9th, 2015 at 06:10 PM |
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71 Notch questions
Yesterday I had the Notch on the ramps for a bit of a planning look. I'd noticed the structure under the front bumper before without ever thinking
about it. Now I've had a good look I wonder what the purpose of this substantial structure is.
I'm thinking its one of those 70s safety factor things. Just seems like a lot of steel to be carrying around.
It's a bit loose at the moment as the 2 screws under the bumper are missing. Will replace them soon.
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wombatventures
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| posted on March 9th, 2015 at 06:15 PM |
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Another thing I found is that the throttle pedal seeems to be missing a bit at the bottom where it sits against the linkage roller.
I'm wondering if this could be the reason its hard to keep the idle set right.
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wombatventures
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| posted on March 9th, 2015 at 06:21 PM |
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And the third thing I'm finding is that the Auto Trans seems to be causing some issues. When I put my foot on the brake when in gear to pull it up it
tends to bring the idle right down, mostly causing a stall. Also couldn't reverse it up onto the ramps, it got part way up and just sat there without
enough drive to move. Am I looking at Torque Converter issues or do the bands need adjusting.
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jedsgpz
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| posted on March 11th, 2015 at 06:59 PM |
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Notcg Questions
OK, looks like no one else wants to answer your questions so I'll do the honours!
1st, The bar behind your front bumper goes all the way back and rests against the front end structure, only held in by the bumper and those couple of
missing screws stop it rattling against the bumper. Just there to provide extra protection in an accident. Apparently!
2nd Nothing missing on your accelerator pedal, you just need to ensure it is seated correctly when setting the throttle cable adjustment.
3rd I'd hazard a guess that your bands need adjusting, or maybe an overhaul. That's a 44 year old auto, and who knows how it's been treated. I've
no experience Type 3 autos, but I've heard they are pretty bullet proof if looked after and well maintained.
Show some pictures of the whole car, always good to see another Type 3!
Jed
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hpnotch
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| posted on March 11th, 2015 at 08:46 PM |
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There's not much else of significance in front of the front beam - I reckon the front end would fold like a tin can in a prang. For this reason I
would keep the collision protection device in place. They are not that heavy anyway.
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grumble
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| posted on March 11th, 2015 at 09:00 PM |
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I assume that you have checked the transmission oil level with it running in park (on flat ground)
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vlad01
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| posted on March 11th, 2015 at 10:45 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by jedsgpz
OK, looks like no one else wants to answer your questions so I'll do the honours!
1st, The bar behind your front bumper goes all the way back and rests against the front end structure, only held in by the bumper and those couple of
missing screws stop it rattling against the bumper. Just there to provide extra protection in an accident. Apparently!
2nd Nothing missing on your accelerator pedal, you just need to ensure it is seated correctly when setting the throttle cable adjustment.
3rd I'd hazard a guess that your bands need adjusting, or maybe an overhaul. That's a 44 year old auto, and who knows how it's been treated. I've
no experience Type 3 autos, but I've heard they are pretty bullet proof if looked after and well maintained.
Show some pictures of the whole car, always good to see another Type 3!
Jed
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to add my bit.
1. it certainly does help in an accident. I had a notch I was stripping and then scrapping. that reo bar was missing so I thought it would be
interesting to see what happens if I crash into something at low speed. crashed into a XD falcon at 10ks or so and it totally f**ked the front to the
point the doors didn't open. The bumper caved in like tin foil. The reo bar is very important!
2. pedal is certainly fine. You will probably find that idle is being held up by a sticky throttle cable. Clean out the cable tube with solvent and
air compressor and clean the cable too. blow the tube dry and coat the cable with light machine grease like inox MX-6 which is teflon grease and non
tacky and very light. it will allow the cable to move easy and return fully. I had this same problem when I bought my notch all those years ago.
3. can't help on the auto. I converted every car I own to manual just so I didn't have to deal with them lol 
71 notchback,
Past owner of, 70 NB, 73 SB and 72 FB TLE |
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wombatventures
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| posted on March 12th, 2015 at 06:11 AM |
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Thanks Guys.
I wasn't worried about removing the bar from the front. Mainly just interested in its function. Got some screws in there last night.
Hopefully the next week or so will give me some time to spend on the Notch. I have just concreted my new carport floor so instead of putting the
beetle straight in there I might put the Notch in for a bit of tlc. Bit hard on a dirt driveway.
I check the trans oil level regularly, has been ok. Will check it next time I start it up as it hasn't been run for a couple of weeks and I didn't
check it saturday when found the issue.
Have talked to an auto trans specialist I used to get work done by years ago. He suggested a service was probably a good idea.
As you said Jed, it's 44 years old, and we've only had it six months so who knows when it was last serviced.
I agree with you Vlad, all of my cars are manuals, even the auto monaro has an M21 now. Sadly the better half only drives auto and the Cressida and
Notch are hers. Which means she won't be driving the Kombi or the Beetle until she learns to use her left leg to drive!!
Been going to do a members ride thread on each of the Dubs. Maybe after the weekend.
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