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Member70giorgias
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 06:04 PM


i tried to do it as well. i have small hands and i can't reach 1 and 3 either - they are behing the vents. i was told you have to drop the engine. i left 1 and 3 to the mechanic, giving up after 2 hours plus it was raining...:jesus DON'T CUT THE HOLES!! the last thing a beetle needs is more holes!!!:cry

[Edited on 12-2-2003 by 70giorgias]
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 06:07 PM


My borthers car was going to have that problem with his 40mm webbers. we cut holes aprox 50mm diameter in the sides at the right spot's then made up plates from some scrap to cover the holes.(we did this before we put the engine in)

If you are carefull with a good holesaw i dont think there is anything in the way to stop you from doing this with the engine in (just make sure you clean around the plug's well before you pull them)

Other than that you could always pull the engine and fix up some holes then put it back. but you need a bit more gear to do that.
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 07:49 PM


I had holes cut in my L bug. I cut them with the engine out with a jig saw. Cut them a generous size. The I covered the edges with C section rubber so I didn't cut my hands. I never bothered covering the holes and didn't notice any negative effects.



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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 08:30 PM


Another thought .........
I have seen a tool which is a socket ratchet but you can also twist the handle to turn the end.
I think its called a virgin wrench (god knows why ?) you might be able to get on of those on with a universal joint in there somewhere
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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 08:53 PM


If you don't want to cut holes,Why not just remove the carbs?, you don't need to remove the engine to get plugs out, how do you think you get plugs out on a stocker? It isn't that hard.



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posted on February 12th, 2003 at 09:08 PM


Yeah, if you don't want to cut the holes, just remove the carbies, you'd have to take them off to remove the engine anyway.



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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 05:00 PM


Banana you should be used to getting into tight places you do work on Aircraft dont you ???

TIP of the WEEK get a piece of vaccuum or fuel hose about 1/2 inch stuff about 4 or 5 inches long.

Once you crack the plug push the tube over the ceramic and unscrew it which will save you dropping in down the hole or loosing it some place else.

when installing new plugs do the same you should be able to screw it in all the way and only tighten it a small amount with your plug socket.

but if al else fails holes are good... make it big enough to do both plugs at the same time probally about 6 by 8 inches or so
then make a new cover plate that over laps by say 1/2 inch all around and screw it on to cover the hole when not in use...

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posted on February 13th, 2003 at 07:55 PM


i have twin kadrons on my motor and dont have any trouble changing plugs.
all u need is a 1/2" drive rachet, plug socket and maybe a short extension.
can be a little tight but easily done
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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 07:01 AM


Banana what year did you do your apprenticeship.

Did you start at QF in Sydney ???

I started QF in 1971 class 26D




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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 09:21 AM


yeah i think ive done about 9 or 10 " D " checks on VWs over the past 35 years.

done many a A, B, n some Cs as well.

I seem to get a new one every few years n want to pull it apart.




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posted on February 14th, 2003 at 10:39 AM


sorry I'm a little late to this thread but you should get yourself a wobbler extension and a 3/4 mini rachet. You will then ne able to get them out no sweat.
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posted on February 17th, 2003 at 05:17 AM


There are many beetles out there with large holes cut in the sides to get at the spark plug and Carbies....
When You do replace the Spark Plugs, I would be using those expensive long lasting ones....
I also read in one of My Many VW owners & workshop manuals that Antiseize is recommended to be put on the thread of spark plugs because of the difference in Metals.




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posted on February 17th, 2003 at 09:15 AM


OK OK I have to ask. what are a, b, c and d checks?



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posted on February 17th, 2003 at 09:24 AM


AIRCRAFT TALK Fraz

they refer to the hours between servicing intervals,

From Memory A is 100 hours

D check is like major surgery the entire A/C is gutted... and looks like a tube when empty.

Banana man may be able to advise the other hour intervals.




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posted on February 18th, 2003 at 01:43 AM


cool bananaman always keen for a bit of bench racing :)
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posted on February 18th, 2003 at 11:29 PM


Hi

I used to tune & service modified VWS for a job, I would have to say that for the end result Kadrons present the most problems. I used a Champion plug socket, these a have a 21 mm hex head on them, so you fit the socket to the plug and then use a 21 mm open ender cut down to suit to turn the plug socket, you usually only need to turn it about 1/2 a turn with the spanner then it should be hand tight. I also have a Hazet extenable spark plug socket that works great. Where I used to work when we fitted IDAs we cut a small hole for 1 & 3 cylinders only. When the motor was being fitted and before the carbs were fitted we drilled the holes, they were only the size of the plug socket. and could easliy be covered with a grommet.

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