[ Total Views: 580 | Total Replies: 5 | Thread Id: 3955 ] |
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wiseoldub
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posted on February 23rd, 2003 at 08:49 PM |
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exhaust leak?
on the way back from bulli, i heard a change in the usual running of the 2ltr i just installed. got out, checked the noise and its cause. got nrma and
talked about heads and exhaust leaks. drove her home , propped her up and sure enough i can see a build up of carbon around no.2 exhaust port at the
head,heaps or hot air blowing out, but the noise seems to be from no.1? what do i do to fix no.2 and why does no.1 sound like its got an air leak?do i
just undo the nuts holding the manifold on, replace the 1 1\2 inch of pipe or what? gotta fix it soon, its gotta get me to work!
all help greatly appreciated!!!
cheers josh:cry
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Menangler
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posted on February 23rd, 2003 at 08:56 PM |
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Josh sounds like it may have blown out one of the heater box gaskets, they fit between the head and the heater box.
They are round rings and made of copper. You need to heat them up red hot and drop them in cold water before you install them to make them soft or the
new ones will leak.
FAHRVERGNUGEN;
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Experienced when a car and it's driver are in mutual harmony, A unique driving experience, Pleasure, Satisfaction,
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wiseoldub
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posted on February 24th, 2003 at 08:56 PM |
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we did that dave, bolted them up, even properly kitted the cards and tuned her .... then fired up and still the cough. been told that i will be
spending the next few days at my local mech taking the motor out again and pulling it apart and replacing the cylinder head gaskets as this is what he
thinks it might be! as long as its not the heads!!!!!!! $580 a side + gst .....ssssshhhhiiiiitt!gonna be a long week! just need my stuff to sell and
we might be happier!
cheers josh
what doesnt kill us only makes us stronger!!!!![and poor]
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vw54
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posted on February 24th, 2003 at 09:14 PM |
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more than likely its a cracked head and you wont find the crack... so its new heads to the rescue
When you fitted the exhaust boxes did you file the flanges FLAT so the copper gasket had a bit of a chance ??? you could try this but i think u
will find CRacks.
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Menangler
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posted on February 24th, 2003 at 10:17 PM |
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Josh, I would pull the heater box off first before you pull the engine and check the o rings.
I have never seen a head gasket go on a 2 litre that blew out lots of air and made noise like a blown exhaust gasket. They usually make a tweety bird
sound on 1/2 throttle.
But I may be wrong.
FAHRVERGNUGEN;
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Experienced when a car and it's driver are in mutual harmony, A unique driving experience, Pleasure, Satisfaction,
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Phil74Camper
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posted on February 24th, 2003 at 10:18 PM |
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Next time you build your Kombi engine, there really isn't any need to use cylinder head gaskets. They seem to cause more problems than they
solve. VW put out a service bulletin in 1990 that said they were no longer required.
You are able to bolt your Type 4 heads directly onto the tops of the cylinders with no gasket in between, just like you do with Type 1 engines. You
may need to shim the cylinder to keep the compression ratio the same, but otherwise assemble the long block like you would a Type 1.
VW suggests tightening the head bolts to 23 ft lbs, but you can go to 25 or 26 ft lbs for a bit of extra peace of mind. Type 4 cases are aluminium and
don't suffer the stud pulling problems that Type 1 cases do.
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vw54
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posted on February 25th, 2003 at 07:01 AM |
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Fill
i would also LAP the barrel to each cyclinder head as done in a Type 1 engine.
also make sure the surfaces are machined or skimmed to clean up prior to lapping.
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wiseoldub
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posted on February 25th, 2003 at 06:54 PM |
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get this!!!!
pulled the engine, started on the tinware and noticed 2 14mm bolts , one on each side of the carb manifold on the right side[loud side]. one of the
bolts was missing and you guessed it, black soot from the exhaust port was all over it! it had worked its way loose and then popped on the way home
from volksday [these bolts are in place of small tinware screws] some numpty has decided, for some wierd ass reason , to drill and tap holes into the
exhaust ports and place 14mm bolts in instead. gggrrrrrreeeaatt! THIS IS THE SPLUTTER I EXPERIENCED AND ALSO THE REASON I DIDN'T HAVE SUCH A
DRAMATIC LOSS OF POWER! [didn't realise i had caps lock on....sorry]so now we will refresh all the gaskets, fix the hole and put her back
together for thursday i hope! everyday i learn a little more! one things for sure, the upright motors are a hell of a lot easier to get in and out all
the time. think i might go back to the 1835 upright idea! for a cheaper way to go, i am spending quite a bit more! i should have bought that nice big
motor [type 4 ] that dave built a few months back for $2000 or so! .. oh well!
cheers for all the advice!!!
josh:thumb
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Menangler
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posted on February 26th, 2003 at 08:43 PM |
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Josh, that engine was from a '77 model, it would have had an air pump fitted, these used to blow air directly into the exhaust ports for exhaust
emissions. It has all been removed and someone has blocked the holes into the heads with a bolt, thats what you do. Its bad luck it had to fall out on
you!!!.
FAHRVERGNUGEN;
Description of a pleasurable sensation,
Experienced when a car and it's driver are in mutual harmony, A unique driving experience, Pleasure, Satisfaction,
A feeling experienced by Volkswagen Drivers.

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vw54
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posted on February 27th, 2003 at 06:33 AM |
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Dont forget to check the exhaust flanges for flatness n file them up FLAT in necessary.
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