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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 12:13 PM
Transmissions questions
OK, a few questions regarding transmissions – no doubt some will be viewed as really dumb, or “no brainers”, but I’m totally ignorant in this
area, so any helpful info will be greatly appreciated.
Currently I’ve got a type 1 swing axle box, converted to IRS, with a super diff and straight cut gears (of unknown origin), and the output flanges
have been modified to use kombi cv’s. One of the top bell-housing/engine bolt holes is cracked, and due to using 2+2 longer trailing arms, I’m
concerned about the operational angle of the cv’s/drive shafts.
So the options as I currently see them are:
Option 1) A fresh T1 case and transplanting the existing internals, and then moving the box rewards about 50mm (it’s in a tube frame buggy, so
anything’s possible)
Option 2) Switching to a type 2 case, and transplant the existing internals
And now the questions:
Q1) I don’t have any info on the current trans case (other than it’s a converted swing axle unit and it’s not a “split case”) – are there
any specific markings or serial numbers that may identify the year or variant ?
Q2) Other than physical construction/size, why is it that T2 transmissions are regarded as “stronger” ?
Q3) I know the T2 box is physically larger, but don’t know by how much, therefore, on the attached (bad) diagrams, can someone please give me the x
and y dimensions – x - the distance between the front mount and the bell housing, and y – the width between the drive flanges.
Q4) Is it actually possible to transplant the internals between a T1 and T2 case ?
Oh, and the last point I'm not looking to the do the internals myself - I still view gearbox work as a black art, that only the wise few can deal
with.
Thanks in advance ... Kimbo
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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 02:07 PM
A1- All vw transmission cases have a serial number stamped on the r/h front side of the gearbox this will give you the type. Should be a link in the
tech section to a site to decode it.
A2 box was designd to push around a vehicle with twice the weight.
A3 x=554 y=278( across the flat faces that the cv's mount on)
A4 NO
[ Edited on 30-5-2006 by mackaymanx ]
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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 03:55 PM
Thanks for that - suspected the answer to 4 would be "no", but thought I'd ask anyway.
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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 05:58 PM
VW transmissions are a black art for most people....
Most of the workshop manuals I have read, say not to touch the VW transmission as specialist tools are needed..
So, I wouldn't go about stripping it down.... or even pulling it apart...
I have seen CV Joints on USA VW shop sites showing special " wide angle" CV Joints especially made for buggies etc....
I don't know whether they are available in Australia...
Lee
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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 06:33 PM
Depending on the year model of the trans's, the gears MAY, be interchangable, but not the diff which is much larger in all respects.
Also the ratios will not match unless your bug tranny had aftermarket diff ratio.
Go the Kombi box and you may be able to trade in your bug tranny and parts.
Quote:
Originally
posted by westi
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mackaymanx
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posted on May 30th, 2006 at 07:50 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by 68AutoBug
VW transmissions are a black art for most people....
Most of the workshop manuals I have read, say not to touch the VW transmission as specialist tools are needed..
So, I wouldn't go about stripping it down.... or even pulling it apart...
Lee
I've read this too, but a part of me makes me think it can't be that hard. it is after all just gears, shafts, keys and etc. Surely if you practiced
a few time you could get good at it?
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posted on May 31st, 2006 at 12:29 PM
Manx - you're a diamond, thanks for the info on the gearbox id stuff - spent a while yesterday trying to find stuff, with very little success.
However, I did re-find the thread on off road mounts for gearboxes and some stuff that Desert Moose is using/selling, which gave me some ideas about
how to shift the box rearwards without too much hassle, and may mean that the hairline crack in the top bolt hole is not as big a concern as it is
now, I just need to physically brace the box differently, and in any case moving it further back means the current method of bracing it would be of no
use – although a replacement case would be good, and now I know what to look for.
68Auto, shifting the box back would solve the angle of the cv’s problem, without going for imported joints – the up ‘n down angles are OK,
it’s just the current box position lays the drive shafts back too much (I believe) Going for Porsche/BMW cv’s would also solve the problem (as
they operate over much larger angles), but would mean getting new output flanges and new stub axles.
Dangerous – yeah going the Kombi route is the way I will go eventually, but I’m trying to solve these problems without generating too much
additional cost. However, we are talking motor sport, so cost is always going to be there, but coz I’m playing a smoke and mirrors game with the
family budget, if I can find a way of delaying the inevitable, then I will, probably not the way to go, but.....
Pete – I agree, and a mate of mine has just done his first box rebuild without any major hassles at all. However, I’m not sure I’m game enough
to attempt it just yet.
Guys, thanks very much for the help and info, greatly appreciated.
posted on May 30th, 2006 at 05:58 PM
