| [ Total Views: 1360 | Total Replies: 15 | Thread Id: 57898 ] |
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 Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 08:55 AM |
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POR-15
POR-15
Not sure if this is the right area of the forum. Apologies mods if it is not.
I will be getting my 76 pan back in a week or so and I need to clean up the whole chassis/suspension area. Having never done this before I am a little
perplexed as to what product to use.
I have been told on several occasions thet POR-15 would be the way to go, providing I follow the instructions. This was always going to be the plan
until I was advised otherwise. I was told that POR-15 is great if the area/components are sandblasted first, however if this is not done then it will
flake off. Sandblasting is not on the agenda, merely taking to the bars etc with a steel brush and then a paint. Is this info correct? Does anyone
here have experience with POR-15 or any other product that I should consider?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Bitte, ein Bit!
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 09:53 AM |
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POR must be applied to bare prepped metal (with two other POR products) in order for it to adhere and perform properly. Rustbullet is
another option that takes less prep... there's a few threads on it in here, so do a search and ye shall find.. welcome to the forum!
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 10:19 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by oval TOFU
POR must be applied to bare prepped metal (with two other POR products) in order for it to adhere and perform properly. Rustbullet is
another option that takes less prep... there's a few threads on it in here, so do a search and ye shall find.. welcome to the forum!
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Thanks for that. I have spent the last hour or so looking around the forum - some great info!
By bare prepped metal, you meen blasted?
I was aware of the other products. If I sand back say the torsion bars, apply the other two products then topcoat with POR paint, it won't adhere?
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oval TOFU
Son of Jim - Creator of Good
Bitte, ein Bit!
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 10:51 AM |
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I think if you blast the metal, it would be the best, but neccessary. As long as it's bare metal and you Marine Clean and Metal Prep it thoroughly,
it should be ok... wait for some other opinions though, i've only done my fuel tank and that was bare metal already.. it's still going strong though
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 01:43 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by oval TOFU
POR must be applied to bare prepped metal (with two other POR products) in order for it to adhere and perform properly. Rustbullet is
another option that takes less prep... there's a few threads on it in here, so do a search and ye shall find.. welcome to the forum!
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Hmmm..now I'm confused.
Rust Bullet apears to be easier to use. Where is this available from and how does the price compare to POR?
Anyone else have any ideas?
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 09:01 PM |
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Anyone??
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megalania
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 09:16 PM |
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volksfolks.biz
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 09:27 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by megalania
volksfolks.biz
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doesn't help me :duh
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
Scirocco Rare
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 10:03 PM |
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Hi
Ive always had good results with White Knight products, except their chassis black which is not petrol proof. After all the horror stories I hear
about POR, I think that I will use their gloss black again on my 1303.
Steve
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pod
A.k.a.: paul mrvw061
Compulsive Aussie Vee Dubber
i`ve got to finish this thing one day
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 10:08 PM |
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http://rustbullet.com/?gclid=CIjX046XmYgCFRcbYQodmQPYXA
info about rust bullet
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 27th, 2006 at 11:44 PM |
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Thanks for the replies guys.
Pod, I have visited the rust bullet site. Im wondering if this is the only way I can source the product or am I able to go into a parts specialist
somewhere and buy it off the shelf?
And,,,has anyone actually used it?
I'll suss out the White Knight range too 1303Steve. Cheers.
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1303Steve
A.k.a.: Steve Carter
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| posted on October 28th, 2006 at 01:28 AM |
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Hi
A bit of info on the White Knight products. http://www.infolink.com.au/articles/68/0C03F268.aspx
Steve
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Volksaddict
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| posted on October 28th, 2006 at 07:32 AM |
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Ummm...anything you do will be a compromise if you dont blast ...spot painting or overcoating with any epoxy based products will more than likely
cause a reaction withn existing coating (ie you can put single pac paints over two pac but not the reverse!!)...most industrial paint cos such as
Altex Coatings ,Watty and Jotun all have a product to lock in any untreated rust and in my experience they are 90% successful with the first
application ...but inevitably a spot or two will fail ..most often thru brushing only one coat on ...brushing doesnt always cover..two or three coats
and a rub if necessary muuuuuch better.......
Cheers&Beers
Ray V
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on October 28th, 2006 at 09:27 AM |
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Thanks for the advice Volksaddict. Blasting is above and beyond my limited budget at this stage so any advice on the best prep and product is
appreciated. One thing I do have is time, so a coat, rub back and another coat or two is not an issue.
Will have a look at the paints you mentioned...cheers.
Still curious about Rust Bullet though...any info/experience would be great.
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VolksFolks
A.k.a.: Pandy
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| posted on October 28th, 2006 at 10:40 AM |
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I have dropped my site for the time being, but have some stock left, u2u me
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=54596#pid538307
[ Edited on 2-11-06 by VolksFolks ]
They laugh because You are different, You laugh because They are all the same.
check out http://www.lowlight.com.au for low lights only.. |
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Spellbound
Seriously Crusin Dubber
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| posted on November 2nd, 2006 at 09:03 AM |
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You have u2u 
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