| [ Total Views: 760 | Total Replies: 11 | Thread Id: 6876 ] |
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 type_one
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| posted on May 27th, 2003 at 09:56 PM |
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Type IV Barrells and Pistons
Anyone know where and how much I can get a set of 102mm type IV barrells and pistons?
Also anyone out there biulding a type IV with this combo? I was thinking of keeping the cam and everything else internal stock except for maybe
straight cut cam gears. Of course it will be an upright conversion.
Any thoughts both positive and negative apreciated.
Blank
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 vw54
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| posted on May 27th, 2003 at 10:06 PM |
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Try VVDS at Campsie they may have some
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maybe straight cut cam gears
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The gears would bea wate of time.. no advantage except noise.
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type_one
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 08:38 AM |
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Why are they a waste of time? I thought there was some advantages to them. Not sure what they are. Guess thats why I am researching first. Besides
they sound great.
Blank
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vw54
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 08:51 AM |
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Yeah thats just it there is no advantage, so your wasting yr money, when you could spend it on something else.
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toplessbug
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 02:49 PM |
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t4
toss out the cam while you are at it and get a decent grind from a reputable cam grinder and have a good look at amc heads before you commit to
getting your old ones recoed there aint a lot of diff in price |
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vw54
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 06:32 PM |
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Old 17, 18 or 2litre heads dont reco any good.
They will all be cracked. By new ones and save yrself time effort and money the first time.
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lugnuts
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 06:34 PM |
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Mahle P&Cs 103mm type4 delivered to your front door $2000AUD from BAS Germany.:thumb |
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Che Castro
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 07:25 PM |
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yeah the only advantage to straight cut is that they dont make any thrust load, they are actually weaker than a helical cut as they have smaller
contact area.
Jon
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kombiluva
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 09:22 PM |
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Big is good.......
have a chat with CONTI Engineering on Bribie Island (Near Brissie), he makes custom sets of P&B for TIV, he also does an Aluminium finned Barrell.
Not Cheap; but good for our HOT Aussie climate....better heat disapation.......
And if you go with 103mm you can have a CHEV piston....and I am told they are a lot cheaper then the VW 103mm piston!!
MH
[Edited on 28-5-2003 by kombiluva] |
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Dasdubber
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 09:44 PM |
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Yes 1.8 and 2L heads are prone to cracks but c'mon, they can be reconditioned - the wonders of welding!
A reputable head reconditioner can do a good job to open up the crack, weld and machine to resurface. Okay may not be as good as a brand new head
because other areas adjacent to the weld may crack....but sometimes cost is a concern. I had my 2L heads reco'd with 1.8L valves installed and
two small cracks repaired - was much cheaper at the time than new heads.
Sorry this post doesn't respond to the 103mm question but heads can be reconditioned successfully otherwise why would shops continue doing so?
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lugnuts
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| posted on May 28th, 2003 at 11:04 PM |
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Er,money!:o |
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nbturbo
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| posted on May 29th, 2003 at 05:57 PM |
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Type 4 options
I have built up a Type 4 engine to go into a 56 Beetle.I bought the motor from a single seat off road buggy.The motor has 103 bore with a
counterweighted 82mm crankshaft,big port job on the heads with 48mm intake and 38mm exhaust valves.It came with a Porsche cooling fan with a FAT
perfomance shroud. I have had to detune the thing to make it streetable( the thing idled at about 1200 revs,so had another camshaft made) and could
put smaller jets in the 48mm Webers.I had to buy another fan shroud from Sharpbuilt to fit it into a beetle body--so the thing has cost a lot of money
to get it to a driveable combo.Since I started this project,I came across a Type 4 Web site in the States and they believe a good combo for Type
4's in Beetles is to use the 2lt 71mm crank and bore out the 94mm cylinders to 96mm,get some head work done,good exhaust and 44mm dual carbs--all
you need.In hindsight for me that would have saved quite a few thousand dollars.I have to live with what I have and hope to have the car on the road
soon.Good luck with your project
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on May 30th, 2003 at 12:08 AM |
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I have a 103 x 71 mm Type 4 engine in my Kombi. The cylinders are normal VW-style iron, with aluminium TRW Chev pistons. I wanted to build a strong
BUS motor so I kept everything else stock - except for the heads (1800) and carbs (bigger main jets).
A bigger cam would depend on what you are using the Type 4 engine for, and what sort of RPM you intend seeing. I built my engine to push my Campmobile
with auto trans, so I never see above 4000 rpm and rarely above 3000 in fact. Stock cam and timing with extra ccs works great. I also reduced the CR
from 7.3:1 (stock) to around 7.1:1 so it runs sweetly on normal ULP.
I would be very wary of boring out stock 2-litre 94 mm cylinders. VW enlarged the Type 4 from 1800 to 2000 by increasing the bore from 93 to 94 mm
(and changing the stroke). Both cylinders fit any Type 4 case, so the outer cylinder diameter wasn't changed. Therefore 2-litre cylinders have
thinner walls than 1800 cylinders. Thinning them further to fit 96mm pistons is not a way to a long-life engine.
[Edited on 29-5-2003 by Phil74Camper]
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nbturbo
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| posted on May 30th, 2003 at 11:24 AM |
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Check out aircooledtechnology.com.Plenty of info on Type4 engine combo's.the Yanks have gone away from 103/105 bores because of head sealing
problems.When I bought my engine,it had the 5th head stud conversion and was running about 8.5 CR.When I pulled the heads they had been leaking badly
around the bottom of the cylinders.I have upped the CR to 9.5 and left the 5th stud out.It hasn't done any serious work yet-have run it in on the
engine stand and all seems well at this stage.You will see from that site they believe the exhaust plays a major part in unlocking power from a Type
4.To get a good exhaust under a Beetle is a problem,a lot easier under a Kombi.
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Secoh
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| posted on May 30th, 2003 at 01:22 PM |
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From my research I have found out that straight cut cam gears ARE an advantage for longevity ONLY.
Che has it right, sorry dave, in that the straight cuts are weaker in design, but do not create excessive thrust loads on the case. If you are
running heavy valve springs or high lift rockers this puts more load on the cam, and therefore more thrust force from the helical gears. This is
pretty much eliminated by running the noisy straight cut gears.
if it's a stock or near stock motor it's a waste of money, but if it's pretty worked it's highly recommended.
Hope this helps. 
If it aint broke,
Make it go faster!!  |
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