| [ Total Views: 2074 | Total Replies: 22 | Thread Id: 69188 ] |
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 tazbo28
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| posted on May 17th, 2008 at 09:50 PM |
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200hp EJ25 71-SuperBeetle
well, i decided to start a new thread seeing as how the other one was kinda going off topic.
5/17
ive sorted out my fuel issues for now. ive setup my exhaust similar to a performance vw version. with a merged 2.5 inch collector going to a bug pack
muffler. its still kinda loud but dead silent at idle. def not as loud as it was when straight piped. the car is registered and now street-legal!! ive
been driving it around a bit lately to break in my new steering box. it feels awesome to have a tight steering setup. no more wobbly wheel at 45+mph!!
now i just need to install a oil pan gasket to get rid of my dripping oil, and replace my 135 fronts with 145's. then ill be ready for Irwindale!!
heres some pics ive already posted before, and a new video i shot of a 2nd to 4th gear run. its on my pda phone, but great quality to say the least.
in the beginning i was explaining the temp. ignore the shouting at the end....enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeL2yPs1XZ4
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 17th, 2008 at 10:29 PM |
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some more
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rocknrob
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| posted on May 18th, 2008 at 07:04 AM |
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registered and street legal wow! congratulations...guess you don't need smog for a vehicle that old. you are in CA right? we hear how tough the rules
are there but i wouldn't fancy your chances of getting it registered here in Oz...enjoy!
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 18th, 2008 at 06:14 PM |
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haha. i most definetley will. i actually have had the car registered while i was working on it. but since its 30+ years old, no smog necessary anyway.
as long as its mechanically sound, has brakes, lights, and seat belts im good. i love it. its been running pretty good the past few days. a little
hotter now when stopped due to the 90+ degree weather we've been having here. i cant even imagine what summers going to be like!
oh yeah, officially won my first race today. it was against an 86 celica. those have become real popular with the younger crowd here in Socal with the
drift phenomenon sweeping our state. it was rollin on some nice wheels, seemed to have some sort of coffee can exhaust and it handled nice. i saw him
take a right turn at like 35-40 and i quickly chased him down to a stop sign. i had him from the start. he kept up slightly in first, i had 1 car on
him in second while i broke traction for a second. and then i couldnt see him anymore. his motor sounded stock other than the exhaust. i couldnt tell
at all. but it felt good!! on a side note my temp dropped to about 169 degrees by the time i hit the next stop sign!! then it rose back up. i love
this setup. it runs a little warm in traffic, but on the open road its ice cold!!
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pete wood
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| posted on May 19th, 2008 at 08:12 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by tazbo28
...now i just need to install a oil pan gasket to get rid of my dripping oil, and replace my 135 fronts with 145's. then ill be ready for Irwindale!!
heres some pics ive already posted before, and a new video i shot of a 2nd to 4th gear run. its on my pda phone, but great quality to say the least.
in the beginning i was explaining the temp. ignore the shouting at the end....enjoy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qeL2yPs1XZ4
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You're driving on the wrong side of the road! 
just as well everyone else is too. 
but seriously, congrats. I know how it feels. I also know what a leaking oilpan is like.
just about to fix that myself. 
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 20th, 2008 at 05:02 PM |
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ok soooooooo... i spent a long time writing a very descriptive post for help. and then i got an error!!!!! and now i dont remember what i wrote!
%@%(*@#*$)
so ill keep it simple. i drove 40 miles on my setup. and the car over heated to about 240-250 degrees once i got to my destination. all highway
driving at about 70-75 the temp read 180 the whole way.
setup....
the overflow nipple just below the rad cap runs to the side of my wiper bottle right next to it. i thnk this setup isnt right. the coolant overflowed
into this bottle filling it to the top and onto the ground. i have the oem tstat in place and the system has about 2.5 gallons of coolant in it. i
thought that would be enough.
also my fan keeps kicking on at about 150. that doesnt seem right. even though it runs all day it doesnt seem to be having much of an effect after
stopping in traffic. my car hovers at around 195ish . but stays cool for around town driving.
so why did this happen??? my heater circuit is blocked off also. will this need to be run???
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 12:37 PM |
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ok so i think i might have placed the thermostat in the wrong direction??? i placed it in with the spring side toward the engine and the other side
toward the radiator. when i went to "how stuff works website". i noticed that this was wrong. it was the other way around
i had to take it out to get the car home without over heating. it ran around 150 on the way home. 160 when i got here.
what should i do!!!??? replace it in the right direction, create a bleeder system on the engine side?? change the overflow tank setup??
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 12:40 PM |
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That's your problem, you can't block the heater circuit on the suby. It needs it for the thermostat to work.
I will look for a relevant post....
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 01:10 PM |
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This is a little relevant;
http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=53365&page=2
I couldn't find a better post although there are lots out there. On the subaru the coolant flows around the heater circuit when the thermostat is
closed. If the heater circuit is blocked the thermostat won't work properly and may stay closed even though the engine is hot.
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 03:52 PM |
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aaaaah... the light shines brightly now. i knew my heater circuit had to have something to do with the coolant system after seeing it being run on
other peoples systems. i have been getting frightened because of how i ran my overflow bottle lower than the rad cap. the system holds a lot of fluid
though. and just when i think i have it completely bled, it did this.
theoretically, can i just leave the pressure release valve on the cap (red flipper thing) open until the water starts to come out into the overflow
then shut it?? isnt this the same as bleeding. that way no air is left in the rad side of the system.
so which outlet is the heater circuit on the motor??? i mean where is it located? i know where the connection is next to the thermo- but not the other
one...any pics would help.
thanks for the help wes. always comin through. much appreciated.
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rocknrob
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 05:52 PM |
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its easiest to bleed air from the highest point in the loop...in my case and i think yours there are two high points...the radiator at the front and
the heater hoses at the engine...so this is how i bleed mine
[img] [/img]
[img] [/img]
i have this plumbed into the heater hoses which are kinda just under the inlet manifold and are 5/8 inch
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rocknrob
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 05:57 PM |
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also i followed Brad's advice and drilled a couple of small holes in the thermostat...maybe with the rad way up the front the thermostat didn't get
hot enough and didn't open and i blew hoses off...so i ran without a thermostat for a while and cool as a cucumber...no good in winter so drilled the
holes and installed the thermostat...end of problems
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 08:48 PM |
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It won't bleed up first go no matter how high your high point is. Air will pocket somewhere in the engine / cooling system. So you want to get out as
much air as possible when initially filling it. Then start it, rev it a few times, let it cool down and check it again. The rest of the air bubbles
will come out through the over-flow bottle system later.
Don't worry about the bottle being lower than the cap, they are in nearly every car. It will still bleed itself from the overflow bottle back into
the cooling system (providing you have a pipe going to the bottom of the overflow bottle so when it tries to draw coolant back into the system it is
drawing from the bottom of the bottle.
If you find the overflow bottle keeps filling (and the engine isn't really overheating and your sure the bottle is big enough) then the cap itself
may need replacing. When they get old the rubber seal doesn't work properly. Also ensure you have the correct pressure rated cap. You could try a
higher pressure rated cap if you still had problems.
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1303Steve
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| posted on May 21st, 2008 at 10:41 PM |
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Hi
My WRX motor is yet to run but when filling my old WBX motor all I needed to do was run it and keep filling until the thermostat opened and as Wes
said the overflow recovery system would take care of the rest.
I had drilled the smallest hole that I could in the thermostat, this allows the coolant seep past the thermostat getting rid of trapped air.
On the subject of bleeding air from water systems, I used a Grocco agricultural pump on my WBX 1302, they're used for hosing down deck on fishing
boats and feeding live bait tanks.
I had heaps of trouble getting it to prime. What I ended up doing was fitting a garden hose connector into t piece before the pump and pressurise the
line until the pump ran by itself.
Steve
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 12:57 PM |
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ok so from what im understanding this is what my cooling system needs to look like.... question---the thermostat can only go on in this direction
correct???????
if thats true, then i have one big problem.....my water manifold looks like this..... no heater outlet on it. im assuming thats wh yOutback told me to
run the car with the ring below instead of the thermostat.
heres the ring i had placed in place of the thermostat.
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 22nd, 2008 at 07:36 PM |
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bad news!!!!!! aaaaahhah....
sadly after driving to a friends house tonight i noticed the smell of burning coolant!!!! i had seen some near the water manifold that i had
accidentally spilled from the hose connection. so i thought it was that and figured it would burn up then go away. so tonight i drove it 2 miles away
to a friends and when i was almost there i felt the car studder when i stepped on it in 1st. i figured it might be fuel issues. so i went to the gas
station. afterwards it seemed to go away. but then on the way home, in second the car again sputtered after i gave it some heavy throttle and i got a
strong wiff of coolant. the engine is still very cold mind you due to not putting the thermo back in yet. i figured it couldnt hurt
after all the hard work. i guess that major overheating that happened put an end to my head gasket!!!! any ideas on how much a shop would charge to
replace these with newer ones?? i figure not much. def not higher than $400. seeing as how the motor is right there. nothing to really move out of the
way. and the newer gaskets would be stronger.
i was also thinkin if it would be worth it to dump the 2.5 and go 2.0 turbo. i have the aftermarket ecu already but wonder if the wiring would all
match up still?? im sure there are extra sensors to be accounted for. anything ide have to do??
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BlueV2
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 04:58 PM |
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As I understand it, Outback (now Outfront) set their motors up to NOT run a thermostat and so cut and block off the heater outlet in the manifold that
you have a picture of. If you want to run a thermosatat you need to have the pipe in the manifold. Something like this.
Sharpbuilt V2, EJ25, Subaru 5 Speed, Falcon rear discs, Heater & A/C, Rack Steering
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Baja Wes
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 05:02 PM |
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Tazbo, just fix your head gasket yourself. It's no more difficult than anything else that you've done so far. Besides, what's the worst that could
happen 
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 05:59 PM |
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well, i guess i could do it myself. i dont have the cam removal tool though. maybe Kragen rents it out. crap im running out of money quick!!!!
haha.
so again im back to this ever present question of, if Outfront uses this setup on all there cars then shouldnt i be able to with no probs.?? i guess
its all about how you drive the car. i drive around town and occasionally make 40+ mile trips on the freeways here. so i guess for the highway its
good to have a cooler running car. the temp does still get up to around 170 at the absolute highest driving 65mph on the highway. i guess the main
culprit of over heating at that point is to make 10000% sure there is no air at all in the system. that sucks because without the heater circuit on
the water manifold its near impossible to bleed the thing up on the engine side without having to pry a screwdriver into the outlet hose with the car
running. a very messy method. but it did seem to work. ive had to drive it around lately and the smell comes in and out. but it hasnt sputtered at
all since last time. there seems to be very little to no loss of power for now. and its my only car at the moment since my 86 cabrio gas tank sprung a
huge leak!!?!?!
so any reecommendations on the cheapest spot to find the newer style head gaskets???
thanks,
vince
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rocknrob
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| posted on May 23rd, 2008 at 09:58 PM |
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if it comes down to saving your engine...flick the thermostat...lower engine temps are better than frying it.
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 29th, 2008 at 08:30 PM |
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got some more pics of the build.....
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rocknrob
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| posted on May 30th, 2008 at 06:05 PM |
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have you got an oxygen sensor on there somewhere? i thought they needed it
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tazbo28
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| posted on May 31st, 2008 at 02:02 PM |
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nah. with the Stinger ems from Outfront the motor doesnt require one to run. i think i might have to have one if i wanted to get it tuned though. i
havent gone to the dyno mainly because they said it should be pre-tuned with a map that is setup for the stock ej25 already. and judging by how many
of these motors go through their shop i chose to trust it. they said a maximum power output of about 190-ish hp. or about 30 more horsepower than
stock if you figure in the exhaust, less rotational mass with just the alternator spinning, and the remapped fuel and spark. thats all on 91 octane
here in California. so its totally streetable.
just for a comparison i tried to race my friends bugeye WRX wagon, and beat him off the line with a bumper ahead, when i hit second i was already more
than half a car ahead. his car is running a piggyback setup on the ecu and a full 3" exhaust system with a huge coffee can tail pipe haha. he says
his dyno tune put him around 220whp. i was shocked at beating him by so much. his car pulls pretty nice too, but it still is a huge wagon-plus he
weighs about 330ibs!! im wondering what my car will do in the quarter. im too frightened to launch it though!! i know i wont have any traction at all
with these 165s. i already smoke the tires in 2nd and have done it in 3rd slightly. plus i don't want to break the tranny. ive heard stories of these
pro street setups biting the bucket with even a low 200hp?!! i guess its the torque that does 'em in.
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