| [ Total Views: 1234 | Total Replies: 23 | Thread Id: 79319 ] |
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 Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on September 27th, 2009 at 08:10 PM |
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Torquey reliable 1600
Gday, I currently have a standard twin port 1600 for my 73 Panel. I just want something with a bit more torque and hp but I definitely do not want to
lose my reliability and economy. I'm not looking to make a race engine!
I was really wanting to get some old EFI parts but it is unlikely. So im thinking- Single carb(Weber dellorhto etc.) Engle 100 Cam, maybe some bigger
heads, exhaust, electronic ignition and balanced crank etc. What are your thoughts?
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bajachris88
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| posted on September 27th, 2009 at 08:33 PM |
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1800 to 2000cc type 4 motor :P
a factory good runner probably end up costing the same as your complete rebuild of your type 1.
mind you there is some adapting involved.
However, your ideas for a type 1 sounds good, just add a full flow oil filter 
(ô_!_/ô) (ô_!_/ô)
69' baja: kombi box, thing spindles, irs, disc front, type 3 rear drums, 2 inch lift kit, 31x10 rears.
New engine in process: 94mm p&bs, 74mm C/w chomol Crank, 35.5x39 SP heads, turbo. Wierd combo, hopeful torque monsta! |
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 Bizarre
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| posted on September 27th, 2009 at 08:38 PM |
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Stay away fron single dual barrels
They are pigs to jet properly
A 1776/1916 with stock heads, mild cam and stock carb will make a nice torquey motor for a bus
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 10:46 AM |
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Thanks guys. Would it be better it to use dual carbs?
I have been told to stay away from boring out. Mainly because of reliability. Oil cooler sounds good.
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 08:44 PM |
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Has anyone gone for 1641?
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 08:56 PM |
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Put twin Kadrons, a 009 distributor and a set of extractors on your 1600
If you don't like that, you can use those parts on a bigger/modified engine later
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 09:00 PM |
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Thanks mate thats a good idea. Big bore scares me  .
Do you know anyone that sells Kadrons? I think Wayne penrose does, am I right?
Also is it true that Kadrons have bad linkages?
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VWCOOL
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 09:08 PM |
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Kaddies are great. Linkage? Yep, you will need a 'race clip' upgrade on the ball ends and after that, no worries.
Nothing wrong with big bore.. the pistons and barrels in my race engine date from 1985 but a big bore conversion is part of a several thousand buck
engine rebuild...
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Joel
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 09:46 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
Stay away fron single dual barrels
They are pigs to jet properly
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progressives yeah, but syncronis barrel carbs are alright
hell, give me a single IDF or DCN over a pair of Kdogs any day
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colonel mustard
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| posted on September 30th, 2009 at 10:00 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Joel
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
Stay away fron single dual barrels
They are pigs to jet properly
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progressives yeah, but syncronis barrel carbs are alright
hell, give me a single IDF or DCN over a pair of Kdogs any day
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depends on who is doing the work... and what the rest of the setup is.... i guess, I can't really give an opinion, since I haven't had kadrons, but
know two chaps locally that love them. If you have a local person building the engine, and they reconmend something.... going with that would be wise.
Fuel injection is probably over kill.......
IMO.... you would be better off spending the cash that it costs to go FI, on a larger bore engine. you may find the 1600 a bit sluggish compared to a
2lite....
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 06:35 AM |
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Thanks for all your inputs guys, This is the info I want to hear.
Its just that I heard that for any boring, its best to buy a new case because apparently they crack on third.
Can anyone verify this?
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 01:01 PM |
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That has little to do with bore size and lots to do with poor machining
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 03:02 PM |
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Yeah I spose.
Does anyone on here use 1641?
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 04:46 PM |
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I would guess a few run them but the increase from 1585 to 1641 is 4%
They are a thinner barrel than stock 85.5 (1600 - 1585) but not as thin as 88 slip ins (1680)
Seeing as it is a bus - i would stay as thick as you can
Because 90.5 (1776) and 94's (1916) are machine in the barrell are thicker
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Bizarre
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 04:50 PM |
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How much you want to spend??
$500 or $5,000??
Daily driver or fun car??
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Joels72Lowlight
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| posted on October 1st, 2009 at 09:44 PM |
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Daily driver, More towards the 1k mark.
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Brian
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| posted on October 2nd, 2009 at 07:07 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
That has little to do with bore size and lots to do with poor machining
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thats total crap
A larger bore means less material therefore
weaker
Although a friend bought a case from CB, they machined it for big bore straight through ??(idiots)
A don,t think there is anyone in Australia stupid enough to machine a case that badly.
You should not believe everything that people say
rather learn by experience
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oval TOFU
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| posted on October 2nd, 2009 at 11:37 AM |
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I'm running a 1640 with twin Kdogs, 009 and a kombi single outlet muffler on my oval - nice and torquey, not too noisey, there's a bit of a
flatspot, but the jetting hasn't been reviewed as yet (ground up rebuild). Unfortunately(?) this is the $5K option...
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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Brian
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| posted on October 7th, 2009 at 07:17 AM |
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5k for a 1640 ??
shish it would pay to ring around
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VWCOOL
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| posted on October 7th, 2009 at 09:50 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Brian
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
That has little to do with bore size and lots to do with poor machining
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thats total crap
A larger bore means less material therefore
weaker
Although a friend bought a case from CB, they machined it for big bore straight through ??(idiots)
A don,t think there is anyone in Australia stupid enough to machine a case that badly.
You should not believe everything that people say
rather learn by experience
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what you regard as 'less material' doesn't mean 'weaker' in the case of a machined VW case. However, crap machining will give rise to case
cracking - hence my point above about 'poor machining' being the culprit, not the number stamped on the pistons.
And $5K sounds about right for a reco 1640 with Kaddies to me - I spent about $2.5K on one 15 years ago
Pay your debts, CxxT
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colonel mustard
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| posted on October 7th, 2009 at 10:12 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
And $5K sounds about right for a reco 1640 with Kaddies to me
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Yep, agreed.
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Carter
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| posted on October 8th, 2009 at 09:59 AM |
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1640 won't be what you're after. Man, go a type 4 engine. Or save up for a while and go to a bigger displacement. 1776, 1916 in type ones are pretty
good. Get your case checked before by a machine shop that deals with VW's... might be $200 or so... While dual carbs etc will give you a bit more
go...and I mean a bit... with proper tuning etc it's not really worth spending that amount of money for that little gain.... I've got a type 4
engine here, 2L that i'm going to build up using Jake Raby part's one day. it's gonna take me ages... but it will happen. So just keep sight of
what you want and work for it bro. 
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oval TOFU
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| posted on October 8th, 2009 at 08:33 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by colonel mustard
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
And $5K sounds about right for a reco 1640 with Kaddies to me
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Yep, agreed.
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Agreed too... coz I DID shop around... good machining and know-how go along way... just like my new engine will
...and Robert's ya father's brother...
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cnfabo
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| posted on October 8th, 2009 at 08:41 PM |
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a mate of mine just bought all the parts from the states, about $4000 he spent. its a 1641,stock crank,110 cam, kads,ported stock heads,...his engine
drives great.
yeah id say $5000 grand if u went bigger bore and pistons.
good luck dude...
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