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 bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on December 30th, 2009 at 10:40 PM |
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Restoration of KO813
Well, after owning it for 25 years, having it registered for the first couple, I finally pulled KO813 apart for some restoration work. None of you
will be surprised to hear that there was more rust than could be seen from the outside, but not more than I expected. Many broken off bolts etc.
Most of the rusty stuff can be bought. Any enlightened advice on where to get the rust panels from? I'll keep you all posted.
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ztnoo
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| posted on December 30th, 2009 at 11:23 PM |
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Tony,
Congratulations on the start of the resto of your CB.
It does look like you are in for a lot of work, but still have something to work from and not its not a total rust basket case.
We've all seen cbjohn's skilled work.
I'm sure he could supply you with any panels you might need to bring your CB back to its former glory. Just a suggestion....
Keep us all informed and keep posting pics too!
Regards,
Steve
p.s. That's a really nifty one wheel dolly you have attached to the pan horns......great idea for moving the chassis around without rear wheels.
Fine tuning the proper daily ratio of Maxwell House to Bacardi 151.........
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on January 2nd, 2010 at 07:05 PM |
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Thanks Steve.
You like my "really nifty one wheel dolly" eh? It's not a new idea, you see them around from time to time. Have a look at the Obsolete Air-Cooled
Documentation Project at http://oacdp.org/ There’s a workshop tools document there, have a
look at tool VW676, that’s the official drawing, I just made mine from crap I had lying around, worth every bit of effort too. I’ll be making
something for the front too for when the beam comes out. Not enough room in my shed so I have to roll it around as I work on it.
I see those people who work on those little squeaky cars with the 3 wrongs have started using similar things for when they remove rear suspensions or
front assemblies, the technology carries on. The 3 wrongs?? Engine in the wrong end, the wrong way around & driving the wrong wheels. You know
the ones.
Cheers
Tony
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58camper
A.k.a.: Bill Moore
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 08:23 AM |
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Tony,
Good to see the Ute is getting some resto work done,. You hit the nail on the head talking about how much work there really is when you pull it apart.
I know several people over the years who were so dissappointed at the level of rust and panel work they could/did not see when the car was assembled
that they put the car back together and sold it on. They could not handle the effort.
Yes, you should talk with Johnny Nofingers ( CBJohn) as it might be surprising what new fabricated panels he has lying around his workshop.
As Steve says, keep us informed of the progress.
countrybuggybill
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ztnoo
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| posted on January 3rd, 2010 at 11:37 PM |
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Tony,
Thanks for the link, that's a very informative site.
I found the drawing of the wheel dolly......looks like some Yank converted some of the fabrication dimensions.
Imagine that!
:-
Fine tuning the proper daily ratio of Maxwell House to Bacardi 151.........
* Don't worry about the world coming to an end today. It's already tomorrow in Australia !
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on January 7th, 2010 at 10:35 AM |
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Trolley for Chassis
Here you go Steve, this is how you make the one for the front. I’ll make another set of those small packers at the top, put them on the other side at
the bottom and it can be turned around and mounted upside down, if you want the chassis up the other way. Those wheels are of my daughter’s scooter,
she grew out of it, and so did I.
I went over that nose with a chipping hammer after the photo was taken, it looks OK there but it’s a write off. Ah, the hidden joys of oxidisation.
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Dilbert
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| posted on January 7th, 2010 at 04:24 PM |
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it seems like more time could have been spent drawing that little wheel than it would take to actually make one. nice looking car 
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 BUGBOY
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| posted on January 7th, 2010 at 06:47 PM |
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All the parts you have shown with the rust are all from a 60's beetle. You can buy all those parts new.
Your heater channels you can replace just the bottoms if they are just rusted there.
Everything 36HP !
Change over king and link spindles
6-12volt semaphores
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cb john
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| posted on January 7th, 2010 at 10:58 PM |
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Nathan, nothing on the CB is rust free...
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bevoracing
A.k.a.: Tony Beven
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| posted on January 9th, 2010 at 11:50 AM |
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You’re not wrong there John. They were only painted in the places you can see. The “tar” that it was calked up with has dried out and fallen off in
most places. It did spend about 10 years as a rain gauge so I guess that’s what you get. I’m having another chassis coming around this afternoon to
apply for the job, we’ll see.
You’re right too of course Nathan. I see the side channels advertised on one US site as “economy” with no heater tubes installed, that would be nice,
save having to “repair” the new ones. I see the bottoms are available, unfortunately the top sections aren’t much chop either. I’ll see what’s best.
Do you know who keeps rust panel stock in Australia?
The actual country buggy parts aren’t as bad. Side pod bottom panel on the right is gone. Bonnet and engine cover have rust around the rolled edges,
the rear panel below the engine lid is bubbled, all pretty normal I guess. We may need to talk John. Chassis first.
Any comment on rust panel stock in Australia would be appreciated? Comments on floor pan metal thickness, the original is 1mm, what are some of these
aftermarket ones, does anyone have experience?
Cheers Tony
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cb john
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| posted on January 10th, 2010 at 09:53 AM |
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Tony, original floor panels were 1.3 - 1.4 mm thick...now they don't make them the way they used to. Aftermarket replacement panels and rust repair
section are barely 0.9 mm. Quality of metals used is dubious, can tell by the way they weld..Since commercially available thickness of sheet metal in
Au. is
0.55, 0.75, 0.95, 1.15, 1.45, 1.95...it is impossible to find the correct gauge ... forming / drawing properties are probably reduced to less than a
half...
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