| [ Total Views: 834 | Total Replies: 20 | Thread Id: 83111 ] |
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 Volkstang
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 01:19 PM |
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Working heater needed for rego for 58?
As above, do you need a working heater/demister to rego a 59? Is it a requirement for roadworthy?
Thanks in advance, Rich
Cars
1959 Beetle on 1958 pan,,,, going OG and low
1300 Deluxe parts car
1966 Mustang
Mitsubushi Challenger
1997 Subaru Outback (Wife's car)
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modulus
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 02:07 PM |
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Hi Rich,
Depending on your location, heater, probably not but demister almost certainly,
hth
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Paulc1964au
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 04:47 PM |
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I think it comes down to whoever inspects the car recently mine was passed however it was on the condition the window washer was repaired. Which seems
rather trivial however I think in NSW if the car came with demisters etc then they need to be operating
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vwsteve
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| posted on April 14th, 2010 at 05:49 PM |
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.
take it to someone who knows vws, you dont need 1 to pass
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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bnicho
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 08:58 AM |
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Under Australian Design Rules (or ADR's) a heater/demister was required only from 1971. Loads of pre-71 cars didn't have them from the factory. So
they can't legally fail you on it.
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive 
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on April 15th, 2010 at 10:49 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Volkstang
As above, do you need a working heater/demister to rego a 59? Is it a requirement for roadworthy?
Thanks in advance, Rich
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I've never had one tested as far as I know....
depends on the tester...
I saw a tester write down there wasn't any water in the REAR window washer and that was 20 years ago...
I'll bet most cars don't even get the front washers tested...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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68AutoBug
A.k.a.: Lee Noonan
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 posted on April 15th, 2010 at 10:51 AM |
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I just realised how many beetles don't have a working heater demister...
check out all the beetles at car shows etc that don't have heater hoses....
I love My heater... wouldn't be without it...
LEE
- [size=4]Helping keep Air Cooled VWs on the road - location: SCONE in the Upper Hunter Valley - Northern NSW 320 kms NNW of SYDNEY--- [/size]
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bnicho
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 10:59 AM |
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| Quote: |
I love My heater... wouldn't be without it...
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Me neither. I can't undestand why people fit J-tubes and suffer the cold. Especially when the heaters in a VW can be quite effective and start to
work morte quickly than a water-cooled car (as far as I can recall anyway).
Maybe they don't use their cars in winter much (trailer queens!?!). 
Cheers,
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 12:28 PM |
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Yes air-cooled engines have very effective heaters when they are fitted and adjusted correctly.
However they are not faster than water-cooled cars. My Golf starts to blow warm air in less than 1 minute from cold start-up. This is because water is
a more effective conductor of heat from the engine than air is - air can actually be considered an 'insulator'. That's why you can put your hands
in a hot oven when you open the door. The air inside is 250 degrees but you don't burn yourself because the air doesn't transmit the heat to your
skin very quickly.
Now try putting your hands in boiling water (only 100 degrees) and feel the difference.
Likewise it takes your air-cooled engine longer to heat the air in the exchanger than a water-cooled car does - its cooling system fluid gets hot much
faster.
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Volkstang
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 01:04 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by bnicho
| Quote: |
I love My heater... wouldn't be without it...
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Me neither. I can't undestand why people fit J-tubes and suffer the cold. Especially when the heaters in a VW can be quite effective and start to
work morte quickly than a water-cooled car (as far as I can recall anyway).
Maybe they don't use their cars in winter much (trailer queens!?!).
Cheers,
Would one of the reasons be due to causing the heater channels to rust in the first place? Without a heater you would not get the tempature changes
that cause consendation. I am not worried about the cold, last winter I was riding a motorbike to work, rain, hail or shine
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Cars
1959 Beetle on 1958 pan,,,, going OG and low
1300 Deluxe parts car
1966 Mustang
Mitsubushi Challenger
1997 Subaru Outback (Wife's car)
And owned 40+ cars and still lots more to come |
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 15th, 2010 at 01:46 PM |
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I would have thought the airflow through the heater channels would ensure they were dry and deter rusting for a little longer?
BTW: My Moke does not have a heater, but if I derive it in winter I just put on a parka and leave the top up. So I'm not a complete wuss.
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 08:08 AM |
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That's right, regularly blowing hot air through the heater channels drives out moisture and keeps the insides dry. A good reason to keep the stock
heater system working. Plus the cosy smell of a VW heater (in good condition) is part of the joys of being a classic VW owner.
Moisture condenses on surfaces that are colder than the ambient air - as beer drinkers with frosty glasses know. Keep your heater channels warm inside
- no condensation.
Early Beetle drivers still keep a hanky in their pockets to wipe the windscreen on cold days - the demister function works OK but not like a modern
car! It will clear a patch at the bottom corners but not the centre - you have to wipe that. And yes, in winter VW drivers still have to dress warmly,
especially if their drive is in traffic. Not much warmth comes out at idle - heat output is proportional to engine RPM.
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DylanTheDubber
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 08:29 AM |
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Yeah , if some one who is real thura checks it and they look at everything. then yes if it the demister/ Heater (Demister runs off heater) It is an
australian standard so technically the cops can defect you for not having a working demister.
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 03:28 PM |
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True Dylan for cars made after 1971 when the ADRs came in. But earlier cars don't have to have them. Many Brit cars of the '50s and '60s didn't
have heaters/demisters (neither did the early Holdens), another reason why early Beetles were better. Then again, the VW Standard didn't have
windscreen washers!
I doubt whether any cops would know anything about how ancient Beetles work, given that many of them weren't even born when they were made. '58
Beetles are not required to meet ADRs. They have no compliance plate - end of story. That said, why not get the heater working properly like they
should?
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 16th, 2010 at 03:57 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
Then again, the VW Standard didn't have windscreen washers!
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Neither did the early base model Minis in UK spec 1959-63ish. But they were standard on Aussie Minis from the start (1961).
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on April 17th, 2010 at 09:00 PM |
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They were standard on all Aussie Deluxe Beetles (the only model available for the first 8 years) from 1954, as were heater/demisters. And wind-up
windows... !
Is it true that Aussie Minis were better than UK ones? If so it would be the opposite for us - no one would suggest that Aussie VWs were better than
German ones - although ours had electric fuel gauges, and kangaroo stamps in various places. Our Superbugs were better than the US-spec ones (they got
front drums, we got disks)
Where the Aussie BMC factory was at Zetland in Sydney, today there's a large Audi dealership (I know, I'm getting off the topic).
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bnicho
A.k.a.: Brett Nicholson
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| posted on April 17th, 2010 at 10:40 PM |
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Yes, Aussie Minis were generally better specced than UK Minis. We got windup windows five years before the UK, and the 998 and 1100 engines (on
non-Coopers) a few years before the UK. The later Aussie heaters were better than the UK ones of the same years too. Plus our vans had a chrome
removable grille where in the UK it was welded in pressed steel (makes it a pain to remove the dizzy or starter). The early up-spec UK models had
nice brocade two tone trim which Aussie's never got. Except for very early cars, ours were all monotone trim. Oh yeah, and our Minis were dipped
before painting, so they don't rust as fast.
My Moke and Racer were made at Zetland, but my Traveller is a UK import.
Brett Nicholson
Melbourne, Victoria
1974 VW Superbug L - Olive
1971 Morris Mini Moke - Mopoke
1966 Austin Mini - Audrey
1965 Morris Mini Traveller - Trixie
2007 Land Rover Freelander 2
2009 Nissan Pathfinder |
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Joel
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| posted on April 18th, 2010 at 12:30 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
Our Superbugs were better than the US-spec ones (they got front drums, we got disks)
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Aside from the front brakes US supers were alot better equiped than ours
heated rear window, optional intermittent wipers and clock, brake fail and handbrake on warning lights, heater control illumination, key in/ door ajar
warning buzzer, seatbelt interlock system/fasten seatbelt light and fuel injection from 74,
and most of them were fitted with A/C
you only have to look at all the empty blanks in aussie 70s bug dashes, especially Lbugs
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
That said, why not get the heater working properly like they should?
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assuming ofcourse it still has an original size engine, 36hp stale air heater boxes in good nick arent exactly falling out of trees
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Volkstang
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| posted on April 19th, 2010 at 05:25 PM |
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If I can get my 40hp heater boxes to work with a tp and can find some heater knobs and cables for my 68 IRS pan I will have a heater it's going to be a real bitsa my bug 
Cars
1959 Beetle on 1958 pan,,,, going OG and low
1300 Deluxe parts car
1966 Mustang
Mitsubushi Challenger
1997 Subaru Outback (Wife's car)
And owned 40+ cars and still lots more to come |
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vwsteve
A.k.a.: steve
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| posted on April 19th, 2010 at 05:33 PM |
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i personally think the working heater caused my karmann ghia sills to rust quicker, i could almost count the bubbles appearing in winter and in summer
it slowed down, i think condensation may build up from the heat inside but hey thats just my thoughts...........
1 1963 356b porsche coupe
2 1960 karmann ghia cab
1 1965 karmann ghia cab
1 1966 karmann cab
1 1961 split ute
1 1967 split p/van
1 1952 standard bug
1 1963 ragtop
1 1960 ragtop
2 1954 ovals
1 1956 oval baja project
1 1957 oval flying flea
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Joel
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Now containing 100% E-Wang
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| posted on April 19th, 2010 at 06:43 PM |
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thats exactly what happens
if they stayed rust free all the bugs in the Uk that have heaters going almost all year round wouldnt need new heater channels with every oil
change
the dry heat from the heaterboxes might keep the inside of the actual heater tube rust free but think about what happens when something is hot inside
and cold outside like the windscreen.... condensation forms
the rest is just science
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