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Author: Subject:  pushrod tube seals
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 03:57 PM
pushrod tube seals


need some adv on some pushrod tube and seals also on changing the front main seal pulley end do i need to remove the eng also i was thinking about fitting a set of scat adj pushrod tubes thanks crock
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:01 PM



Type 1??

Heads need to come off to do push rod seals.

I have never had good luck with the spring type adjustable ones.
I have used the screw type to some degree of success

There is no seal at the pulley end.
It is an oil slinger on the crank
If you are leaking there you have way too much pressure in the crank




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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:08 PM



what is the cause of to much pres my oil pres cold is 45 hot about 30
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info.gif posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:13 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by crock
need some adv on some pushrod tube and seals also on changing the front main seal pulley end do i need to remove the eng also i was thinking about fitting a set of scat adj pushrod tubes thanks crock


THE ENGINE has to be removed to replace the front engine seal

the original type of push rod tubes are recommended...
they are made like they are to help cool the oil as it goes thru them...
the adjustable ones don't do this...
just make sure You use gasket cement on both sides of the seals
and use silicone seals...

You can reuse pushrod tubes by carefully stretching them a few mms each end.. so they will be tensioned when fitted..

cheers

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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:16 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by crock
what is the cause of to much pres my oil pres cold is 45 hot about 30


oil pressure in a cold engine [cold thick oil] is very high..
the oil pressure relief valve keeps the pressure down until the oil gets hot and thinner...
the oil then goes thru the oil cooler etc...

I have heard of many metal oil filters/oil coolers being blown apart by the oil pressure in VW engines in the USA..

the relief valve needs to be working correctly....

LEE




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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:23 PM



what oil pre shoud i have the eng is a2180 type 1
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:30 PM



what breather set up do you have??

A big motor like that needs to breath




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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:33 PM



i have breather pipes from tappet covers plus the main engine filling breather all going to a central breather.
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:35 PM



crank case pressure

Do you have a breather system hooked up that allows the case to vent pressure, or better still vacumn to the carb(s)
Yes if you dont want to pull the heads adjustable tubes will be your only solution
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 04:44 PM



the engine has twin 44 webbers should i run the standard pipe at the filler to the top of the air cleaner. should this make a difference? .. i have noticed oil droplets coming out the bottom of the original breather tube cheers.
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:14 PM



yeah okay, i would close that one off with a late filler that doesnt have it

Imagine the crank and cam flying trough the oil in the engine its going to mist to a certain extent as well as build pressure....the idea is to not only relieve that pressure but separate the oil from the air too

All lines should be self draining via gravity to the sump direction and yes vacumn to the breather box you have will add to the capacity to relieve so long as the box is also baffled to separate the oil from the air
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:22 PM



flick up some pics, they will help to no end
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:31 PM



the breather box is mounted above the gear box 3 lines in tappets and oil filler and 1 out should i tee in and pipe to the top of the air cleaner to help with the vacume
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 05:35 PM



shit iam 47 and just learning to type how do i do the photos
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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 08:26 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by crock
shit iam 47 and just learning to type how do i do the photos


HAH! 47..... spring chicken!!
I have a few years on ya

Read here

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=79671&page=1#pid741291 

http://forums.aussieveedubbers.com/viewtopic.php?tid=46683&page=1#pid435469 

or email the pics to me at barry.agnew7@gmail.com




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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 09:23 PM



Pulley end can also be aftermarket pulley being too small od at the oil scroll, but crank pressure must be relieved. Generally I don't recommend venting to air filters, they will provide minimal vacume and the oil fumes greatly reduce octane. Get a better breather, the small common aftermarket ones always leak oil, they are not big enough, they hold about 10mm of iol inside that doesn't drain back so it leaks, the foam filter disentergrates quickly too.

As for pushrod tubes, the good quality ones are JC or Scat, even Empi have a rip of the JC that is reasonable, they must be the ones with the internal 2 or 3 Orings and spring loaded to deal with the expansion and contraction of the engine.




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posted on July 9th, 2010 at 09:36 PM



yeah matt hard to stick all the info up when stuck on this bloody phone for the net
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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 09:24 AM



haha spring chicken. whats that make me then? an embryo?

anyway I am thinking you should benefit from a catch can.
Its similar to a breather box but more can shaped and likely bigger. They work in a similar ways but with an addition of an oil return.

So basically the breather line run to it. The baffles condense the mist back into liquid and it all collects at the bottom where is drains back into the sump via a return line (can must be above engine ).
Just as the breather box has a breather vent so does the catch can, which can be run either filter vent, to intake or a vacuum pump.

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posted on July 10th, 2010 at 09:35 AM



Crock

have a read here

http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=118958&highlight= 

Error
Sorry, you must be a registered user in order to download attachments.




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posted on July 11th, 2010 at 01:07 PM



thanks for all of your replies A LOT TO PONDER OVER its alot different to my old 62 1200 beetle once i learn how to post some photos i will show you my 71 beast Also i am in the prosses of a body of restro 71 beetle quite a bit of rust heat channels door pillers front and rear wheel arches front strut holders ect but i am enjoing the challenge cheers crock
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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:34 AM



Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?

Cheers

Newt




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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 01:52 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by Newt
Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?

Cheers

Newt


I wouldn't put in pushrod tube seals without using permatex no3 gasket cement on them...
if the seals crack the cement stops them from leaking...

a lot of cheap seals about these days...
make sure You get silicon seals...

LEE




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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 08:01 AM



I use good quality seals (the slipery feeling ones) and no goo........lucky we're not all the same it'd be boring.....hey Lee?



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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 11:33 AM



Quote:
Originally posted by 68AutoBug
Quote:
Originally posted by Newt
Guys, Im curious, Ive not used gasket goo on the pushrod tube seals. Is this a common practice over east?

Cheers

Newt


I wouldn't put in pushrod tube seals without using permatex no3 gasket cement on them...
if the seals crack the cement stops them from leaking...

a lot of cheap seals about these days...
make sure You get silicon seals...

LEE


If it got to the point of the seals cracking wouldn't they be old and need replacing anyway?
So a small amount of oil leaking as a telltale would be a good thing so you know to replace the seals.

That's just my opinion.



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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:37 PM



For a 'forced induction' setup... the breather lines would be after the blower, to pressurise the crankcase right? (reduce blow by etc. etc.)... Or is that something that only the modern engines can handle (i've seen it on a few ricers thats all... pressurised from after the blower into the rocker cover breather on a few I4's...



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posted on September 15th, 2010 at 12:51 PM



Quote:
Originally posted by bajachris88
For a 'forced induction' setup... the breather lines would be after the blower, to pressurise the crankcase right? (reduce blow by etc. etc.)... Or is that something that only the modern engines can handle (i've seen it on a few ricers thats all... pressurised from after the blower into the rocker cover breather on a few I4's...


Dear lord no! You want the lowest pressure possible in the crankcase, a lot of race cars even run dedicated crankcase vacuum pumps and will pull several psi of vacuum in the crankcase to make it easier for the reciprocating assembly to cut through the air/oil mist. That's a bit extreme for normal engines though, in general you just want to reduce your crankcase pressure to atmospheric pressure. If high pressure was desired then engines wouldn't have breathers at all, as blow-by past the rings is enough to pressurise the crankcase somewhat, especially in tired engines. Piston rings seal by being forced against the bore by the cylinder pressure above them, pressurising the crankcase would not reduce blow-by.

On the subject of breathers and venting to air cleaners, the only reason that factory setups on old cars vent the crankcase gases to the air cleaner is because they were running oil-bath air cleaners, so any extra oil blowing into the intake is caught by the air filter element and drains into the oil bath. If you vent the crankcase into the inside of a paper air cleaner, you are bypassing the filter element and thus there is nothing to catch your oil mist before it is sucked through the carb and into the engine, which is bad for performance and engine cleanliness. This is what catch cans and other types of oil/air separation devices are for, they essentially do the same job as the old oil bath air cleaner, but they are external so you can run your paper air cleaner instead.






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