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posted on January 28th, 2011 at 01:39 PM
Poor Mans CYL Head CC Guide
Hey guys
Dont know if any one needs this but here is a poor mans guide on how to CC your heads.
Pic 1 & 2
Do your port and bowl work, finish the ports but just get the bowls to roughly where you want them, then cut your seats and valves. Put 2 finished
valves into heads.
Pic 3
Get yourself a 10 ml syringe from the chemist and buy yourself a flat piece of perspex and then drill a hole in it so the hole lines up with the edge
of the bowl.
Pic 4 & 5
Aplly a smear of grease around the edge of the Perspex and then slip into the head and rotate back and forth a few times to squeeze the grease and
level out.
Then fill you syringe and squirt into the hole until no air is left in the head remembering add up the amount of water you put in. Write the number
of cc's on each head.
Pic 6
If you can, make yourself some blending valves, this is just an old valve with the face really cut down so the valve sits really low in the seat. The
valve on the left is the blending valve.
This allows you to now go in with your polishing gear and polish the bowls until they are perfect and you can run your sanding and polishing gear all
over the blending valves to get a good entry without fear of touching your nice seat.
Start with the largest cc Chamber and just clean it up then move onto the smaller cc chambers and go a bit heavier and remove some more material
(guess work lol) so you can even up the chambers.
Just for your info, I took this head to work toady and CC'D it with the very very expensive work gear and doing it the cheap way was within 1/2 cc of
the work gear.
Who gives a rat about that.
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clinker42
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posted on January 28th, 2011 at 01:42 PM
The other Pics
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Smiley
A.k.a.: Daniel Stephens
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posted on January 28th, 2011 at 01:53 PM
Quote:
Originally
posted by clinker42
Hey guys
Dont know if any one needs this but here is a poor mans guide on how to CC your heads.
Pic 1 & 2
Do your port and bowl work, finish the ports but just get the bowls to roughly where you want them, then cut your seats and valves. Put 2 finished
valves into heads.
Pic 3
Get yourself a 10 ml syringe from the chemist and buy yourself a flat piece of perspex and then drill a hole in it so the hole lines up with the edge
of the bowl.
Pic 4 & 5
Aplly a smear of grease around the edge of the Perspex and then slip into the head and rotate back and forth a few times to squeeze the grease and
level out.
Then fill you syringe and squirt into the hole until no air is left in the head remembering add up the amount of water you put in. Write the number
of cc's on each head.
Pic 6
If you can, make yourself some blending valves, this is just an old valve with the face really cut down so the valve sits really low in the seat. The
valve on the left is the blending valve.
This allows you to now go in with your polishing gear and polish the bowls until they are perfect and you can run your sanding and polishing gear all
over the blending valves to get a good entry without fear of touching your nice seat.
Start with the largest cc Chamber and just clean it up then move onto the smaller cc chambers and go a bit heavier and remove some more material
(guess work lol) so you can even up the chambers.
Just for your info, I took this head to work toady and CC'D it with the very very expensive work gear and doing it the cheap way was within 1/2 cc of
the work gear.
Who gives a rat about that.
THAT IS SWEET!!
Great thread!
Now we just need someone to do a thread showing how to do port and bowl work.
Smiley
If you said I was a Volkswagen man, you'd be right.
66brm
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posted on January 28th, 2011 at 03:26 PM
Another option I've seen used is a CD instead of a perspex sheet, just need to roll the head a bit to get the air out
clinker42
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posted on January 28th, 2011 at 08:05 PM
Here is the finished product, blended and assembled. Good do with a little more polishing, but shit, its a freebe so its good enough. 48.5 CCS per
chamber.
You all can do this at home with a good compressor.
Trev
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