| [ Total Views: 8898 | Total Replies: 29 | Thread Id: 99568 ] |
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 snitz
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 08:49 PM |
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WHAT IS A BETTER BUY A KOMBI LOW LIGHT OR LATER MODEL BAY..
Just getting some info together at the moment but looking to buy a Low Light Kombi(1970) or later model Bay window Kombi and was wondering what are
the pros and cons between the 2 models. Does the later model Bay cruise better at speed?..Is it fitted with a better gearbox,brakes etc and IRS
instead of swing axle rear?. Also if the later bay is a better option, do the earlier lowlight bumpers fit the later model bays?
I am not as clued up on kombi info but the wife and I are looking for a non-pop top kombi and hope to do a simple fit-out with a rock and roll
bed,table,fridge and tv.All out friends have camper trailers but that shit doesn't interest us.We would rather holiday with style in a kombi!
I am looking to talk to my local mechanics Siggy and Steve (GHR Motors for the people in Adelaide).to see what they think is the best kombi to buy in
terms of servicing and cost.
Any advice or help would be appreciated.Regards Jason 
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h
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 08:56 PM |
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they are both bay models mate 
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snitz
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 09:13 PM |
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See..I told you I wasn't clued up on kombis.
We are looking at Kombis 1970 and later like a low light 1970 model or the later models with the bigger bumpers..
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waveman1500
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 09:22 PM |
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Basically the early ones will have 1600cc motors, but some of the later ones will have the 1800cc or 2000cc Type IV motor. They are much better suited
to the task of pushing a heavy camper around. That's the most important difference.
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snitz
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| posted on November 8th, 2012 at 09:36 PM |
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Cool..not looking for a full blown camper just a non-pop top kombi with a rock'n roll bed and maybe put a fridge and tv in.As long as it can do the
speed limit Im happy with just a 1600.
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Klaus
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 06:25 AM |
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70-/71 is best model for upgrading and the 71 had boosted brakes , but you can fit theses to the wide 5 70 model, 2ltr box can be fitted to these
models also with a bellhousing and input shaft change , downside is lowloights are getting up there in $$ compared to a late bay
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 07:09 AM |
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'Bay' is a stupid term invented by UK journalists in the late 1990s. Volkswagen never used it. All it does is cause confusion and makes VW owners
sound like idiots.
Both the 'low-light' and the later 'highlight' Kombis are 'second generation' VW Transporters, and were made from 1967-79 in Germany (1968-76 in
Australia). Volkswagen refers to them as the T2 - for second generation Transporter. Likewise the earlier split-window Kombis up to 1967 are the T1,
and the later 1980-92 air- and water-cooled Kombis are the T3. The T4 was the first front-engined Kombi, and the current models are the T5.
The T2 model you are interested in can be divided up further. The initial model from 1968 is the T2a, with the low-light' nose. It already had the
so-called 'IRS' rear end, although its proper name is the 'double-joint' rear end (the earlier swing-axles are also fully independent). In 1971
the Kombi got lots of improvements including front disc brakes, brake pressure regulator, wider rear track, twin-port heads and the 'dog-house'
cooler. In 1972 it got an improved engine/gearbox carrier, VW Diagnosis socket, bigger rear taillights and new squared-off rear air intakes.
In 1973 the Kombi got the new front end, with the blinkers moved up. This front end was also strengthened, with new larger bumpers over a full-width
safety deformation element. It also had larger front disc brakes, and in Australia the Type 4 1700cc engine was available as an option for the first
time. The 1973, because of its new nose, is different enough to be referred to as the T2b. From now until the end of the model, improvements were
mostly minor - 1800cc engine choice and no fuel flap in 1974, new steering column switches in '75 and new 2000cc engine (no more 1600cc) in 1976,
post ADR27 ones with fuel injection. Australian assembly came to an end after 1976, so the 1977-78-79 Kombis were fully imported from Germany. The
last shipment arrived in late '79, but local trickle sales continued into 1981. The T3 wasn't imported to Australia until early 1982, and was at
least 50% more expensive than the equivalent Japanese transporters.
The Kombi's biggest-selling year in Australia was 1975, when 8,974 were sold - more than Toyota or Hyundai sells their Hiaces or Iloads today! You
are better off finding the latest one you can, as they are more advanced and the early ones will have had a long and hard life.
No the early bumpers won't fit the later ones, as they need to cover the deformation element. Australian Kombis had painted bumpers, but the German
Microbuses were chromed.
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AA003
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 07:18 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
The T3 wasn't imported to Australia until early 1982,
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But at that that time they were called the Type25. It wasn't until the T4 was released that they changed the nomenclature to designate them as T3
along with the Golf Type 17 and 19 to Golf A1 and A2, and the Passat to B1 and B2 (after which the Bananas in Pyjamas were named.)
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 11:37 AM |
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Hi Phill!
But the T3 pickup is a Type 24. In the period road tests at the time of the T3's introduction, they were just calling it the 'new Transporter' or
the 'new Caravelle.' See Modern Motor from May 1982, for example. I understand the Germans are now using 'T3a' to describe air-coolers and 'T3b'
for the wasserboxers.
Yes VW didn't use (or make public?) the 'T1 T2' naming until the T4 came along, but it's a beautiful and logical system, and they have made it
officially retrospective. That's good enough for me. I hope you're continuing the fight against 'Mk1, Mk2' etc Golfs.
BTW I was at the Motor Show recently and noted from its VIN that the new new Beetle is a model 16 - a number VW has already used for the Jetta. And
the Up! is an AA, the first VW double letter model code.
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snitz
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 01:29 PM |
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Thankyou for the replies people especially Phil74Camper for the detailed reply.You are all definately helping me in the right direction.
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AA003
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 01:58 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Phil74Camper
But the T3 pickup is a Type 24.
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No, it's Type 25.
You are getting confused with a model 245/6.
Just like a RHD Window van is a model 254.
I read it on samba, so it must be correct.
Sometimes Volkswagen dealers sell spare parts. Amazing isn't it!
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 helbus
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 05:31 PM |
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Later 70's bus with 1800 or 2 Litre have expensive motors to rebuild properly including carbies or Fuel injection. $5000 to get the motor and carbs
rebuilt properly.
Later 2 Litre gearboxes have a better highway cruise engine speed and diff ratio for cruising and bigger clutch and stronger box overall. More
desirable and more expensive.
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 Bizarre
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 07:11 PM |
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All depends how much you want to spend
OK - My opinion
Splits are real expensive
Low lights next
Then Fat Chick Bays - for some reason the low lights are still "cool"
Vanagons
First of all - buy a bus. Take the seats out and put a r' n' r beed in there if thats your go
Campers are coomon. Tin top busses are becoming hard to find.
Consider an auto. I reckon they rock in a bus for cruising.
If you want bang for buck - get a 2.1L Vanagon
For $5k (ish) you will get a great example that is uncool'ly cool
If you REALLY want a cool bay - get the last of the low lights.
The one with the first of the type 4 motors
But you aint going to pay $5k for a good one
Futue te ipsum!!!
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68BUS
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 07:21 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Klaus
70-/71 is best model for upgrading and the 71 had boosted brakes , but you can fit theses to the wide 5 70 model, 2ltr box can be fitted to these
models also with a bellhousing and input shaft change , downside is lowloights are getting up there in $$ compared to a late bay
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I thought that for the same reason. But speaking with Grant the other day his 71 is a pain in the bum as things do not fit that well.
I thought my 68 was bad.
My IMO. Lowlights are cool cause hte rear lights look so much more streamlined. But they are harder to find with less rust as the good ones have been
snaffled.
I would concentrate on quality - IE, Running enough to survive with RACQ Ultra Care, and as rust free as possible.
Learn it as you go then upgrade with all the knowledge you develop.
Think of it as Paying for a TAFE course in Kombi Ownership.
(Except you can't get laid in the back of a TAFE course.....
(I only did panel beating and spraypainting, I didn;t want to get laid anyway. Maybe photography????)
1966 Aussie 11 Window
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snitz
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 10:51 PM |
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Yeah wouldn't mind a 70-72 Low light..Saw a 72 Lowlight tonight on the volksfest cruise tonight and spoke with the owner.Running the type 1 style
1600 engine, later style rear but still the early bumpers.I really like it!.The wifes beetle already has a worked 1916cc so working on a 70-72 would
suit me better. Ive seen 2 lowlights for sale in Adelaide..One for $5500 and another for $15000.The more expensive one is a country car with original
paint and no rust and the cheaper one is a car that lives on the coast so its probably a can of worms..lol. Im in no rush to buy one but if we see a
good solid bus that runs and has walk in rego then we'll probably snap it up.Just a TV,Bed and some where to put our Engel fridge will do us..we
aren't interested in decking it out with a kitchen,cupboards,sink and cooker.So I'm sure the 1600 will haul our ass around..lol.
Next is to speak to our mechanic to keep an eye out for us too.I think we have the bug really bad now..
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barls
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 11:09 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Bizarre
If you want bang for buck - get a 2.1L Vanagon
For $5k (ish) you will get a great example that is uncool'ly cool
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i think the old man is still pissed that he sold his t3s. he really regrets it.
but saying that he would never admit it.
buy what feels right at the time and make sure you get it checked mechanically before paying the $$$
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snitz
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| posted on November 9th, 2012 at 11:21 PM |
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Yes..we'll definately get our VDub mechanic check whatever bus we are looking to buy over..Im proficient to fix most things including body work plus
2 of my mates are spray painters but motor-wise I dont want a full rebuild just after purchase thats for sure.
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h
A.k.a.: Towely BuMpEr KING! ILLegal ALIEN on a roadtrip
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 06:49 AM |
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I've had many 'bay' buses so I must be an idiot according to the doyen 
I've had both low n high lights n for me a highlight was a far better rig to own
they are great strapping down the highway and about town with the bigger motor n box
apart from that they are similar animals
as others have alluded to, lowies are becoming the new black and their price reflect's
try n get a bus with minimal rust, yep they do still exist if your patient and look hard enough
enjoy your quest 
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waltermitty
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 07:01 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by h
I've had many 'bay' buses so I must be an idiot according to the doyen
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If the shoe fits...
Mitchell
23 windows ...8 too many!
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h
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 07:15 AM |
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waltermitty
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 08:30 AM |
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could of been worse the old fart might have described bay owners as gormless mouth breathing dolts! M
23 windows ...8 too many!
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snitz
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| posted on November 10th, 2012 at 10:03 AM |
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Thanks h.
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Klaus
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 06:35 PM |
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splitties are only expensive to peeps that cant afford them haha , as "h" said be patient and the right one will turn up... I'll sell u one of
my rust free ratty 74 window busses no motor or box for 10k
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D-train
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 06:43 PM |
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high lights, low lights... whatever. both fattys..
haha
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helbus
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 07:07 PM |
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Whatever you get, chop it, modify it, make it custom.
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snitz
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 08:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by helbus
Whatever you get, chop it, modify it, make it custom.
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Absolutely will be modified. With 2040mm clearance under our carport it will be lowered. Even if we buy a late model bay Im thinking of removing the
deformation panel behind the bumper and doing a few mods to fit low light bumpers..dunno..the late bumpers just dont do it for me.A '72 model is what
we are going to hunt for.Just have to finish off the beetle otherwise we'll just have more than one unfinished project.
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Scottkombi
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 09:09 PM |
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Try a late bay and get the Brazillian "low-light style" bumpers.
They fit late bays around the front deformation panel and have a slash cut low-light rear bumper that handles the fat arse late bay rear end.
Otherwise you will have a "Hi-Low".
88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
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snitz
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 11:00 PM |
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Do you know who stocks these "Brazilian Low-light Style" bumpers?..Cheers Jason.
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snitz
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| posted on November 11th, 2012 at 11:05 PM |
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Actually just saw the slash-cut (low-light) style rear bumpers for sale on Just Kampers..
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Scottkombi
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| posted on November 12th, 2012 at 07:15 AM |
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I know Just Kampers sell the front brazillian bumpers in the UK but out here - not yet.
Maybe call them up and ask them if they can get them?
Worth a try - they look loads better than the square bumpers.
88 Caravelle Syncro Camper
89 Caravelle GL microbus - 5 speed
69 Microbus
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