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Author: Subject:  Floor pans
Membermodnrod
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posted on December 17th, 2014 at 12:03 AM
Floor pans


Mine presently looks like this.
Oops.......

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/MODNROD/VW/Oops_zpsf045219c.jpg

I have 2 sets of replacement floor pan halves. One is a cheapy crappy set when I thought all I was going to do was cut bits out and replace a few areas, one set is full length Klockenholm replacement panels after I'd had a better look.
Now I'm not a panel beater, but I can and do weld in panels, very slowly but they get done properly. I have to say though that I am completely underwhelmed with the replacement quality on offer.

Nearly all of my ACVWs over the years usually get extra flat panels either bolted or riveted in (for ally) or stitch welded in (for steel) over the stock pans, to give extra strength and impact resistance against my normal roads.
Here's a good one........

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/MODNROD/P1020282_zps790b2684.jpg

Here's one that gets regular maintenance, as you can see by the sign I pass weekly at least........

http://i1212.photobucket.com/albums/cc458/MODNROD/P1020283_zps880a055a.jpg

I've PMd "Smiley" for an opinion, coz he used 2.1mm checker plate very successfully on his Baja, but I thought I'd also put a thread up here for opinions and advice for everyone else to ponder over, so I'm hoping he doesn't mind and can add his experiences.

At present I'm leaning towards 1.55mm zincaneal flat sheet to replace the stock OEM "now-unobtainium" 0.9mm swaged panels, with the 2,1mm as a back-up. I'm after strength as a priority, the weight difference is only 20kg. Without the benefit of a 10 year engineering degree, I would consider (rightly or wrongly perhaps?) either option to be a strength upgrade.

Oh, and yes, it will need to be pitted when done, which means it's possible that cheap shitty unsafe stuff that looks stock might be preferable to new solid steel. I can't see any reason why new HD steel welded in would be subject to any different tech scrutiny than feeble aftermarket panels welded in, but I could be wrong (it happens a lot! :lol: ).
Engineers needed? Surely not for this?
Opinions? Experiences?
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posted on December 17th, 2014 at 08:04 AM



The basically 'flat' floor sections - even original ones - do not add greatly to the 'stregth' of the body. Maybe you could look at adding a pair of Cabriolet 'reinforcement channels' when you fit the new floor panels ?

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/body_sheet_metal/bug_sheet_metal/r...




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posted on December 17th, 2014 at 10:04 AM



Thanks for that link Greg, I've never seen a pic of them before, I always wondered how they were formed. I've got a plan in mind to do something similar (it's a bit excessive, but oh well) to brace the sills.
I'd considered triangulating the floor area with tubing then add a second floor, but I decided that's just getting ridiculous! :lol:
The floor thickness is more about stopping spikes, and also reducing the "wobble-board" effect a bit.
If pitting it is no issue, then I'm leaning towards using decent flat plate.
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posted on December 17th, 2014 at 10:19 PM



Do a search for Richola or could be Ricola and his custom 1303 cab. Made his own floorpan section and could be what you're after :)



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