| [ Total Views: 2058 | Total Replies: 23 | Thread Id: 110508 ] |
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 LonePiper
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 05:43 PM |
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Removing rear hubs (got the nuts off already)
I'm wanting to fix the rear brakes on Dustin, my 1970 fastback, and I'm getting really confused with the rear hubs. After finally getting the nuts
off with an extra long and chunky breaker bar, I'm still no closer to actually removing the hubs.
The idiot's guide and everything else just says to basically slide the things off (I have made sure the stars are adjusted accordingly before you
ask!), but they won't budge.
On top of that, the right and left ones are different. Have a look at these pictures:
Passenger side:
Driver side:
As you can see, the hub on the passenger side in in two pieces, while the driver's side doesn't seem to be. Even on the inside it doesn't look like
anything I've seen on any how to's with the way it sort of flanges inward and disappears in toward the axle.
Either way, neither hub is budging in the slightest. Anybody know how I might be able to remove them?
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 vw54
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 07:07 PM |
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Put the wheel back on loosely with 2 or 3 bolts
you can use it to rock back n forth to act as a puller to remove the hubs
make sure the car is firm on jack stands otherwise it may drop on you
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grumble
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 07:47 PM |
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As Dave says and if you need a little extra grunt a few light whacks with a sledgehammer as per a professional mechanic to get it moving. If this
doesn't work use a few choice words that the other gender use when trouble strkes. If this doesn't help take it to a VW specalist.
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LonePiper
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| posted on February 1st, 2016 at 09:17 PM |
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I've given that a little shot already with the wheel on, but didn't get anywhere. Might give it a more serious go next time I have a chance and see
how it goes.
For the record, that two-piece hub on the passenger side: is that normal?
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hellbugged
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 05:09 AM |
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They're both 2 piece as per all 4 stud type 3
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vw54
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 05:48 AM |
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I don't see why u want to take the hubs off anyway you can change the brake shoes with them on
You can see a little rust on the shafts as well get some WD40 or similar and spray into the spline that may help
Of use more coarser words when rattling the wheel to act as a puller
Also try tapping gentle on the inner section of the hub in RED this may loosen the rust build up
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grumble
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 06:54 AM |
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Last resort is a puller,if you don't have one you can fabricate one out of a piece of flat steel drill 2 holes to line up with the stud holes 2 long
bolts and tighten and the hub should slide off the spline. .
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 08:24 AM |
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just knock the axle back in a little with a copper hammer
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cruiser
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 01:08 PM |
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I had the same problem recently and made a basic puller as mentioned although mine was a piece of 25mm box section steel, then just two bits of
threaded rod to match and tighten them up across the diagonal two fixings.
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grumble
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 05:37 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by vw54
I don't see why u want to take the hubs off anyway you can change the brake shoes with them on
You can see a little rust on the shafts as well get some WD40 or similar and spray into the spline that may help
Of use more coarser words when rattling the wheel to act as a puller
Also try tapping gentle on the inner section of the hub in RED this may loosen the rust build up
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As Dave says I would just do replace the cylinder and shoes with the hub in situ.
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vwo60
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| posted on February 2nd, 2016 at 09:03 PM |
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If you need a puller you can hire them from a standard hire establishment, make sure it is a three leg puller and keep in mind the hub is made of cast
iron that can break, you can load up the puller and hit it on the puller bolt and shock the hub.
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 08:03 AM |
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everybody is over thinking this, I repeat knock the axle in a little bit with a copper hammer or even with a piece of hardwood and a decent hammer,
this will break the grip that the axle has on the hub splines. With an IRS car you could drive the axle all the way through if you wanted to
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grumble
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 12:25 PM |
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I agree,the job should be finished by now as i should have been a simple matter of dismantle, free the adjusters,fit the cylinder and shoes,adjust and
bleed. Unfortunately a lot of jobs go that way but it fills in the days..
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LonePiper
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 06:22 PM |
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1303Steve: thanks! Great advice. I got the driver's side off with this method. However, the axle will not bang in on the passenger side at all. Not
the slightest bit of movement.
| Quote: | Originally
posted by hellbugged
They're both 2 piece as per all 4 stud type 3
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Driver's side was not in two pieces. By what you're saying I'm guessing it's not original, although it looks a lot more like what I've seen in
how-to videos (though in fairness they were all for bugs not type 3s)
Anyway, I can at least get at the brakes now to fix what needs fixing and replace what needs replacing.
Very helpful. Thanks! 
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vwo60
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 06:25 PM |
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Striking the axel has the potential to brinel the bearing ,leading to premature bearing failure, the correct way is pull the hub of the axel with a
puller, this has no chance of damaging the bearing, as vw intended.
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LonePiper
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 06:37 PM |
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Well bugger. Too late now!
Anyway, I'm beginning to suspect that that hub is two pieces, but that they have just been glued together somehow...
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1303Steve
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| posted on February 3rd, 2016 at 07:52 PM |
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a puller capable of doing the job is probably worth more than the car, driving down the road would probably do more damage to the bearings than
hitting the axle
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vwo60
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| posted on February 4th, 2016 at 07:46 AM |
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Hire it for about ten dollars at a hire place, just use a three leg puller. Driving down the road dose not produce sharp impacts like a hammer blow as
it is insulated through the tyre. make to job easier in the long term by doing it correctly.
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hellbugged
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| posted on February 4th, 2016 at 08:31 AM |
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That drum and drive flange has the locating grub bolt holes, so I still say it's two pieces.
You need a bigger hammer
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bevoracing
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| posted on February 4th, 2016 at 10:16 AM |
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The drum and the hub are just rusted on.
Make sure the brake shoes are properly backed off.
Work at it slowly and gently, tapping, pulling moving. Don’t get violent, patience is good here.
You should use lots of CRC, and perhaps some heat if you’ve got it.
Use a heat gun or some gas, warm the drum to expand it, not red hot, only until you can’t hold your hand on it, then tap it, let it cool, heat it
again, repeat. Same with the hub, do it several times and it will free up.
Then clean them up and use an anti-seize of some sort, sparingly (you don’t want it all over your wheels & brakes), when you put it back
together, like it should have had last time.
You’ll get it.
Cheers
Tony
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LonePiper
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| posted on February 5th, 2016 at 07:52 PM |
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Thanks again for all the help everybody. Finally got the passenger side hub off too using a combination of methods mentioned above.
Next time I will get a drum puller, but for this time I didn't mind hitting the axle, as I'm pretty sure I need to replace the bearings anyway
(they're pretty rumbly)
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vw54
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| posted on February 6th, 2016 at 07:06 AM |
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so don't forget the circlip inside
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LonePiper
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| posted on February 7th, 2016 at 11:24 PM |
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... which circlip do you mean?
I do have the pieces of two broken clips which I think fell out of the hubs as I opened them up, but I have no idea where they're from...
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vw54
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| posted on February 8th, 2016 at 07:09 AM |
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I think you need to find a VW mechanic
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