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 seagull
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 12:49 AM |
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selecting a new ecu , so whats out there ?
I going to get an aftermarket ecu for my new ej20 quad cam , so whats out there now days
speedster pete has a microtec and tells me that was a good and easy fit . ( this would be my fist option )
just would like to know who has fitted another type of system to there ride .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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Desert Moose
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 12:56 AM |
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Have a look at MicroTech, not that bad on price and so easy to wire even you could do it seagull...lol
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seagull
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 01:19 AM |
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I have no problems with my wiring > I just need a diagram to go by .
I will never ever get a stock ecu done again in my life .its a wast of time & $ :cry
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71superbug
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 01:30 AM |
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hehe,.
are the haltech's compatible wth the subie donks?
Anthony 
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 09:07 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by seagull
I have no problems with my wiring > I just need a diagram to go by .
I will never ever get a stock ecu done again in my life .its a wast of time & $ :cry
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You have had a bad experience. Looking at the big picture, OE is the easiest and best way to set-up... if it has been done (wiring modifications etc)
properly. Yours, as evidenced by your current situation, unfortunately hasn't
Despite my fear, I had Subie OE harness and PCM in the car and running in about an hour. It was supplied by someone who apprently has lots of
experiecne with transplants
For 'aftermarket' try a modified Delco from a Holden...it is quite cheap, quite sophisticated engine control and can be made 'programmable' and
you have one of the country's best tuners over there - Daniel at Chipmaster in Malaga(?)
Having said that, you don't need to re-invent the wheel and spend days going thry catalogs checking pin-outs and sensor voltage compatibility, so get
advice from soemeon who has done it before - boof2332 or speedster pete...nn[ Edited on 14-8-2005 by VWCOOL ]
Pay your debts, CxxT
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lugnuts
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 11:20 AM |
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These are aussie companys,Advanced Engine Management Systems,Airpowersystems,Autronic,Haltech,Microtech,Motec and u can add Link to that its a kiwi
company sold through MRT,have fun researching seagull  |
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1303
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 08:58 PM |
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I've been researching this for months and I reckon it all comes doen to what you want to spend.
Alot of the manufacturers are very clever in stating what their features are. eg When I read "Boost Control" I think Pulse Width Modulated Frequency
Output to control a solenoid and tuned keep a stable pre set boost value.
Most of the cheaper units (around $1000) advertise boost control but it is nothing more than a fuel cut that stops the injectors when the boost
exceeds the set level.......hardly controling the boost in my mind.
I think for the most features for your dollar it would be hard to go past an EMS 8860, up to 4 pulse width modulated out puts (ei enables the real
deal in boost control), 4 analogue outputs, anti lag (proper anti lag not just miss firing of cylinders), 4 inputs, and a huge tuning grid.
The EMS costs around $500 more than the cheaper units but when you think about it if you bought a cheaper unit and then a stand alone Electronic Boost
Control ( E Boost etc) you would be way over the $1500 mark anyway.
My 2c worth.
Cheers Paul.
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jvl054
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 10:11 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by 1303
I've been researching this for months and I reckon it all comes doen to what you want to spend.
Alot of the manufacturers are very clever in stating what their features are. eg When I read "Boost Control" I think Pulse Width Modulated Frequency
Output to control a solenoid and tuned keep a stable pre set boost value.
Most of the cheaper units (around $1000) advertise boost control but it is nothing more than a fuel cut that stops the injectors when the boost
exceeds the set level.......hardly controling the boost in my mind.
I think for the most features for your dollar it would be hard to go past an EMS 8860, up to 4 pulse width modulated out puts (ei enables the real
deal in boost control), 4 analogue outputs, anti lag (proper anti lag not just miss firing of cylinders), 4 inputs, and a huge tuning grid.
The EMS costs around $500 more than the cheaper units but when you think about it if you bought a cheaper unit and then a stand alone Electronic Boost
Control ( E Boost etc) you would be way over the $1500 mark anyway.
My 2c worth.
Cheers Paul.
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One step infront of you Paul!...Deal-set and done.JVLRacing:thumb
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silverbullet
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 10:27 PM |
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I am using the new haltec e6x good system for money in my subaru conversion. Lots of options and easy to install and use. There is also the haltec e11
which has even more options, but as always the price goes up.
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boof2332
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| posted on August 15th, 2005 at 11:24 PM |
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My next one will be the EMS...like Paul.
Matt
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seagull
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 12:37 AM |
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Thanks for the input guys .
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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Jenny
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 06:59 AM |
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AEM sell the Wolf 3D (mid priced) and they have maps for most Subaru configurations so you should be able to plug it in then drive to the workshop for
fine tuning.
EFI Hardware sells the Hawk (low budget).
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Jeza
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| posted on August 16th, 2005 at 08:24 AM |
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It could be worth talking to the local tuning specialists and seeing what they are happy working on... otherwise you may get a little stuck when it
comes time to fiddle with the maps?
......random gibberish for today.......
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Andy42
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 06:03 AM |
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I am going to run a motec M800. Seems to be very tunable and I know a couple of guys with them in rally cars and they love em. Not the cheapest on the
market though.
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rubyred
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 09:40 AM |
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dont forget about Megasquirt. the most affordable efi setup i know of...
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jvl054
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 10:17 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Andy42
I am going to run a motec M800. Seems to be very tunable and I know a couple of guys with them in rally cars and they love em. Not the cheapest on the
market though.
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A Very Very good computer.But ther are afew nipping at the heels of Motec......But still the best for 110% tunning.To set one of
these up proper $5000 min.JVLRacing
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bat69
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 02:12 PM |
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I ran a motec on my suby rally car a few years back and it was fantastic for the rally application. My question to you would be what do you want to do
with the car? If you want to go and compete at the front of the field in a rally or race state championship, then spend the extra $$ and get an ecu
with all the bits. i.e. antilag etc. If you just want to drive it to and from work and the strip ever now and then, go for a cheaper ecu that will be
just as reliable.nn[ Edited on 17/8/2005 by bat69 ]
White Knuckle Racing Team
"Drive it like dirt"
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Andy42
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 05:02 PM |
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For me I want to be able to get the most torque i possibly can at the lowest revs with the least lag. i have seen just how tunable and what can be
achieved with the motec in a rally evo 7 and it is excelent. The standard computer has no chance to compete but yes they are a bit expensive. It does
look as if I will get a very good deal for it fitted and dyno tuned simply because I have a friend who is very good mates with a person who is well
known for his excelence with this product.
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 07:02 PM |
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Hey Neil, your nt giving up are you??? Seriously, let me know if you get one, as i'm looking a getting one after i put the new gearbox in so could
possibly do them together.
Anyone know what advantages the aftermarket computer will bring over the stock ecu? i'm currently getting about 80hp at the wheels (ej20 quad cam n/a
stock ecu, modified loom). This sound right? Been told jap ej20 quad cams should do 100-110kw factory?
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on August 17th, 2005 at 07:05 PM |
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| Quote: |
For me I want to be able to get the most torque i possibly can at the lowest revs with the least lag.
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Me too, i find when i put the foot down at low revs, the engine bogs down a bit, sturggles to accelerate up the dunes in 2nd (the big tyres and
currentl beetle box isn't helping either). I'm hoping to get more torque down low.
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Jenny
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 07:11 AM |
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Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think
you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
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VWCOOL
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 08:56 AM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jenny
Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think
you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
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Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
Pay your debts, CxxT
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Jenny
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 02:38 PM |
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So if Ratbag is only getting about 80HP at the rear wheels then there is something wrong?
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ratbug
A.k.a.: Andrew Todd
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 04:46 PM |
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Yeah well i expected it to be more than 80, but the dyno operator said its about what he'd expect for a 2l n/a 4cyl. I dunno.
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Jeza
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 06:59 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jenny
Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think
you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
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Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
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How much would you expect a VW driveline to soak up? 30% seems a lot.
I know the Subaru 4wd driveline soaks up a lot, but the VW system is really simple.
Cheers
Jeremy
......random gibberish for today.......
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jvl054
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 07:28 PM |
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| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jeza
| Quote: | Originally
posted by VWCOOL
| Quote: | Originally
posted by Jenny
Ratbag,
I read in the SAE paper that the EJ20 n/a is suppused to be good for 148Hp (150ps) at 6800rpm at the fly wheel? I can't remember for sure, but think
you loose somewhere around 30% by the time it gets to the rear wheels??
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Easy. The gearbox and diff (driveline) soaks it up
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How much would you expect a VW driveline to soak up? 30% seems a lot.
I know the Subaru 4wd driveline soaks up a lot, but the VW system is really simple.
Cheers
Jeremy
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30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i
would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing
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tassupervee
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 10:32 PM |
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FWIW
I use a Microtech MT-8 on my Nissan Fj20et (turbo) powered ute and an older EMS T1-4 on my wifes Nissan pulsar ET turbo.
These are both ignition and fuel ECU's
Apart from the entirely different tuning methods, they both work well enough and drive sweetly as daily runners and shopping trolleys.
The cold start is controlled a bit finer (more temp points) on the Microtech.
I do prefer the EMS tuning method tho, altho its quite confusing at first.
Even tho the EMS is an older ECU, the improvement in driveability and economy over the stock EFI was spectacular!
These are both about 1100 dollar ECU's (dyno tuning extra, usually around $500) which puts them at the lower end of the money scale but for my mine,
they have both proven to be quite good.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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seagull
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| posted on August 18th, 2005 at 11:43 PM |
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I am going to do a short run at the dyno when I get my machine ( MISTRESS ) on the road , just to what I have in power to weight .
If I am correct I will have close to 580kg all up ( dry weight no fuel )
I am telling you will be triping when you see this thing !
Looking for that special lady : PM me for coffee & cake
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tassupervee
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| posted on August 19th, 2005 at 11:32 AM |
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| Quote: | 30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i
would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing
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Actually very way!
The VW transaxle is surprisingly good at soaking up power and converting it to heat.
A good Formula Vee 1200 engine produces about 65 HP at the fly and translates to about 45HP at the wheels.
Even after a short 6 lap race in the cold here in Tassie, the trans case is remarkably hot.
We fill the transmissions with auto trans fluid rather than gear oil in an effort to reduce frictional looses due to the heavier gear oli.
L8tr
E
Im not a complete idiot, quite a few parts are missing....
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jvl054
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| posted on August 19th, 2005 at 02:54 PM |
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| Quote: | | Quote: | | Quote: | Originally
posted by tassupervee
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30%no way!Subaru yes,with the amount of moving parts to operate the wheels...Vw around a lost of 8 to 10% if any more than that i
would look seriouly... looking at my drive train.:oJVLRacing
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Actually very way!
The VW transaxle is surprisingly good at soaking up power and converting it to heat.
A good Formula Vee 1200 engine produces about 65 HP at the fly and translates to about 45HP at the wheels.
Even after a short 6 lap race in the cold here in Tassie, the trans case is remarkably hot.
We fill the transmissions with auto trans fluid rather than gear oil in an effort to reduce frictional looses due to the heavier gear oli.
L8tr
E
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Standard motor and gearbox yes.... not performance motor and gearboxes......(45.5hps is 30% from 65fwhp)...JVLRacing
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