| [ Total Views: 674 | Total Replies: 12 | Thread Id: 4385 ] |
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 T3Forme
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 03:55 PM |
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What to look for in a Kombi?
Hi all
I'm about to start a terrifying journey.. Looking for my next car. Im going to get a kombi camper and was hoping to get some ideas on what i
should be looking for or looking out for. Like where rust might be hiding etc. I am hoping to find a 2L one any problems specific to them?
Oh i'm mechanically retarded too. I'm one of those people who look at the motor, hold their chin, and look thoughtful but what im thinking
is i don't know what the hell im looking for!
Any help appreciated.
Cheers
Liam
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 Bizarre
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 04:12 PM |
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Look for rust in -
around windows
in the floors
foot wells
battery area
Dont worry "too" much about doors as these are replaceable. Body not so
Look for a good spray job - a respray with all its windows is harder than a beetle
Other good things
sliding windows instead of the little vent ones
2L type 4 carburettor. Fuel injection is nice but harde to find good ones. Carbs are easy
Auto - auto kombi's ARE GREAT. Save the gear stick for the beetle!
No rust!
IF you MUST get manual make sure it dont jump out of gear.
75 onwards
did i say no rust?
I am sure others will have their 2c
Barry
Futue te ipsum!!!
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T3Forme
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 04:16 PM |
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SO if theres rust in i should run run run?
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Bizarre
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 04:32 PM |
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"Oh i'm mechanically retarded too. "
it all depends but from the quote i am assuming you dont have a oxy get in your glove box?
No offense meant - bit there are great ones out there with no rust.
You can alwasys change a motor but if you have to cut rust out - you have to respray - and if the paint is no good that means the WHOLE bus!
It all depends on how bad - but TO ME, rust would put me off the most.
Futue te ipsum!!!
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T3Forme
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 05:07 PM |
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Duuhh What Oxy? JOKE
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Menangler
A.k.a.: Dave Becker
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 07:44 PM |
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I have a '76 Kombi camper, If you want you can come and have a look at it, and you'll know what not to buy!!!
Its being wrecked for parts, has factory air, cupboards, sink, fridge, bed seat, all the usual camper stuff, and a 2 ltr engine.
FAHRVERGNUGEN;
Description of a pleasurable sensation,
Experienced when a car and it's driver are in mutual harmony, A unique driving experience, Pleasure, Satisfaction,
A feeling experienced by Volkswagen Drivers.
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Robo
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 07:53 PM |
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There are a few places that the bus is prone to rust in.
1 The battery tray in the back left corner, look under the bus where the battery is.
2 The windscreen seal channel at the bottom right and left corners, lift the rubber at these points if the seal has perished it is a safe bet that
ther will be some cancer or it will be just starting, if it is not to bad, it can be repaired.
3 The front A pillers, top and bottom if it has had holes drilled for sunvisors or stone guards, and the person doing it has been careless they
could have drilled through the pillar allowing moisture to get in causing rust that is difficult to repair.
4 rust in the seam at the base of the front clip, take the kick boards out of the front interiour and you can see the seam from the inside, put
your hand in the channel at the bottom and run it along the channel you will feel corrosion if it is there.
5 the back of the front wheel arches bellow the hump.
6 Left and right rockers, if it hasen't gone to far these can be welded with replacement panels fairly easily.
7 Front floor, crawl under the bus and look at the whole floor, and check all the steering gear while your there! grab hold of the tie rods
near the ball joints and try to move them up and down, any play and their shagged also lift the rubber or carpet up and look underneath.
8 There are two plastic bungs on either side of the engine bay door at the back, look at the area under these, if it is bubbling, it is rusting
from the inside out, not good.
9 All the doors, along the bottom.
If all these are OK start on the engine and gearbox, the engine should be free of oil and dirt build up, most have a leak here and there, but if
the owner is serious about their bus, they would keep it clean, with a regular wash! a dirty engine dose not allow the AIR to do it's job of
cooling the engine!
Grab hold of the drive shafts near the CV joints and try to push them up and down, if they have any play they are ready to fail, $120 or more
each.
If the clutch is adjusted correctly there should be about an inch of free play, the gearbox should not be noisy in any gear, and should shift
easily.
The steering should not have more than 2 inch's of play at the wheel, if there is look at the box under the floor, there is an adjusting nut
on the side, if the bolt protrudes about a quarter of an inch through the nut, it still has some adjustment left and it should be OK.
Jack up the front wheels, so that they are off the ground (one at a time) grab hold of the top and bottom of the tyre and push the top and pull on the
bottom, any play and it is either the ball joints or the wheel bearings, ball joints are expencive!
Take it for a run and keep your ears eyes open and try to feel the bus through your hands, feet, and backside, dont talk to the owner concentrate
on what the bus is telling you, you can't do this if the owner is babbling in your ear.
And most important, take someone, a friend with you, they will see things you miss, while dreaming of your new possesion, if they know a bit about
VW's thats even better!
I hope this gives you some things to look for, and is some help! GOOD LUCK!
I hope you find a good one, they are top VW's
Rob.....
:thumb
Boxer Power
Member of DMLRK.....Die Mittler Lebuns Resto Komeradschaft
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silver
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 08:07 PM |
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a paint job thats new can also hide things !!!!
take a fridge magnet to check for bog
Keeping it real !
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T3Forme
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| posted on March 13th, 2003 at 08:39 PM |
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Thanks very much guys. 
Cheers
Liam
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amazer
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kombi pilot
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| posted on March 15th, 2003 at 02:11 AM |
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I gotta add, rust around roof gutters esp at the rear. Above the rear bumper brackets. Every window rubber is a problem. To replace rubbers in a kombi
is well over $1000. Quarter vent windows are very bad rust areas.
Chris.... kombi pilot, oval dreamer... finisher #26971 2005 city to surf
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KruizinKombi
A.k.a.: Col
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| posted on March 15th, 2003 at 01:17 PM |
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I'd be looking for a willing woman, cash under the mattress and a fridge full of beer!!
Kruizin Kol
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T3Forme
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| posted on March 15th, 2003 at 05:09 PM |
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had a look at one today a 75 1800 nice and clean haggled the guy down to $3500 from $4000 - Ok. Then he says he wants a $500 deposit! They are staying
in a caravan park so i said no way $100 is all your getting - not good enough for him so i walked.... Don't get some people....
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tracash242
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| posted on March 16th, 2003 at 02:43 PM |
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you done the right thing he probaly could of done a runner with your cash,i go back with about $3000,in cash ,then see what he does.if it was realy
good ,,
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Bizarre
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| posted on March 16th, 2003 at 07:13 PM |
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MAnual or auto?
Hang out for a 2L :thumb
Futue te ipsum!!!
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Andy
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| posted on March 17th, 2003 at 01:52 PM |
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Not that I’ve chased extensively, but 1800 pistons/barrels and bearings are NLA from what I’ve heard. 2L stuff is still available.
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Phil74Camper
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| posted on March 17th, 2003 at 02:58 PM |
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It really doesn't matter. 1800 and 2000 cases are the same, except for the engine number prefix. When rebuild time comes, you just use 2-litre
parts.
1800 cylinders are 93mm; 2000 cylinders are 94mm. They both fit. You would buy new cylinders and pistons anyway if you were doing a proper rebuild.
1800 cranks have a 66mm stroke with 55mm big-end journals. 2000 cranks have a 71mm stroke with 50mm big-end journals. A 2000 crank will drop straight
into an 1800 case, but you must also use 2-litre rods of course.
As for the heads...you can only buy new 2000cc heads, as the 1800s are no longer available. Pity, as the 1800 heads have bigger exhaust and intake
valves. You CAN buy reco'd 1800 heads from the USA, which is what I did.
In the meantime, the 1800 will purr along quite well and is only fractionally slower than a 2-litre anyway. If you find a good one - go for it.
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Andy
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| posted on March 17th, 2003 at 03:13 PM |
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Go for the porche heads, bigger valves again.
Not that I can afford them. 
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